The design of the Chronomat underwent a major transformation in the 1980s. At the start of the decade, the Italian Air Force sought a suitable chronograph for its pilots. In 1983, under the Schneider family’s leadership, Breitling developed the Chronomat for the Air Force’s aerobatic team, the ‘Frecce Tricolori’. This model was a departure from the earlier slide-rule chronographs. In 1984, to celebrate Breitling’s centenary, the new model (Ref. 81950) was unveiled to the public and went into series production. Instead of a slide rule, the case now featured a prominent bezel with distinctive rider tabs. Onion-shaped pushers and crown adorned the watch, hallmarks of classic pilot watches. The focus had shifted from ‘chronograph’ and ‘mathematics’ to ‘chronograph’ and ‘automatic’, giving the name ‘Chronomat’ a new meaning.
40 Years of The Chronomat
Breitling Chronomat
From chronographs for pilots to style icon with cult status
The Chronomat, Breitling’s versatile watch for every type of activity, stands as one of the most iconic pilot’s chronographs of all time. First introduced in 1984, at a time when ultra-thin quartz watches were the norm, Breitling chose to make a bold statement with a strikingly proportioned mechanical watch. In 2020, Breitling reissued the watch, featuring its signature rider tab bezel and distinctive Rouleaux bracelet. Since then, the Chronomat has continued to evolve, solidifying its place as a staple in the Breitling collection. While the new generation of the Chronomat is inspired by the models of the 1980s, its history reaches much further back.
The history of the Chronomat
In 1940, Willy Breitling secured a patent for a chronograph with a circular slide rule, marking the birth of the original Chronomat. Two years later, in 1942, it was publicly launched under the reference 769. The name ‘Chronomat’ combined the words ‘chronograph’ and ‘mathematics’, as the innovative rotating bezel allowed users to perform various calculations such as proportions, multiplication, and division.
Inspiration for today’s Chronomat
A robust and stylish chronograph for the Italian Air Force
Key Features of the Chronomat
The Rider Tab Bezel
To protect the watch’s sapphire crystal from various impacts that pilots inevitably encounter, Breitling developed the four raised rider tabs on the bezel, which serve as buffers. These tabs have an additional practical function for pilots: they mark the quarter hours. By allowing the tabs at the 15 and 45 positions to be unscrewed and swapped, the bezel can function as either a countdown or count-up timer.
A Recessed Sapphire Crystal
The Chronomat features a slightly domed crystal that sits recessed below the raised rider tabs, providing added protection from knocks in the tight quarters of a cockpit.
Onion Crown
This distinctively shaped crown, designed for ease of operation even while wearing gloves, earned its nickname from the grooved edges that resemble the shape of an onion.
Rouleaux Bracelet
The unique metal bracelet, with its cylindrical links, was crafted to fit comfortably around the pilot’s wrist, adapting smoothly to movement while they are at the controls. The Rouleaux bracelet made its debut in 1983 with the Chronomat ‘Frecce Tricolori’.
Align the “super luminous” marker with the minute hand by rotating the bezel counterclockwise.
Read the elapsed time in minutes on the bezel (here, 15 minutes).
Count – Up
The rider tabs are set in the standard 0-15-30-45 positionsUsed in diving to monitor time spent underwater.
Used in aviation or in motorsports to keep track of elapsed times when navigating in one direction.
Count – Down
Here the rider tabs are set in the customized 0-45-30-15 PositionsOften used in motorsports and regattas.
Competitors can keep track of the minutes left before a race and prepare accordingly.
Align the rider tab 30 with the minute hand by rotating the bezel counterclockwise.
Read the remaining time in minutes on the bezel (here, 30 minutes).
The comeback of the modern Chronomat
The modern Chronomat is a bold, sporty model
that’s equally well-suited to being worn with a suit
As a tribute to the 1984 anniversary model, Breitling launched a new series of Chronomat models in 2020, specifically designed with features reminiscent of the retro version while embracing a contemporary style. The standout element, which captivated many fans of the collection, is the integrated Rouleaux bracelet, reintroduced for the first time since 1984. The new Chronomat watches also retain the signature rotating bezel, accentuated by the distinctive rider tabs.
Upon its relaunch, the new-generation Chronomat came in a variety of metal and dial options, though initially in a single case size of 42 mm. It was offered with dials in modern interpretations of silver, copper, or blue, each with contrasting black subdials. Another option included a black dial with silver subdials. To celebrate Breitling’s long-standing partnership with luxury carmaker Bentley, the Chronomat B01 42 Bentley was released with a green dial and black counters.
In keeping with the 1980s spirit, when gold and two-tone models were especially popular, the 2020 collection carries a touch of ’80s charm. The Chronomat B01 42 features 18-carat red gold accents on the crown, pushers, bezel with rider tabs, numerals, and indices. This chic two-tone model was available in several dial colours with matching subdials.
As an homage to the original 1983 model that inspired the modern Chronomat, Breitling also introduced the Chronomat B01 42 ‘Frecce Tricolori’ Limited Edition (250 pieces), featuring a blue dial with matching subdials. The dial bears the ‘Frecce Tricolori’ logo in place of the Breitling logo, while the caseback is engraved with ‘ONE OF 250’.
Breitling Chronograph
Calibre 01
Each model in the latest Chronomat range is driven by the reliable Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01, prized for its substantial power reserve of around 70 hours. Every model is COSC-certified as a chronometer. First introduced in 2009, the in-house Calibre B01 centres on a classic column wheel with a vertical clutch, ensuring precise start, stop, and reset functions. This calibre includes an innovative friction clutch for an energy-efficient connection between the chronograph mechanism and the power source. An enhanced version of the B01 was introduced in 2022 to further refine its performance. which is appreciated for its high power reserve of around 70 hours.
Key Chronomat models
The Chronomat range now offers a wide variety of sizes, materials, and colour options
Chronomat Automatic
GMT 40
For men, though equally suitable for female admirers of the brand, the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 models accordingly start with a 40 mm case size. These models offer several sunray-finished dial colours and are paired with the iconic Rouleaux bracelet. The steel case features satin-brushed surfaces with polished chamfers running along the edges. A distinctive onion crown is set between subtly raised guards for protection. The red GMT hand displays a second time zone on a 24-hour scale marked on a raised ring around the dial, with a date window that adjusts in black or white according to the dial colour. Alongside stainless-steel options, there is also a variant with a case made from a mix of stainless steel and platinum. The COSC-certified Calibre B32, based on the ETA 2893-2, powers the watch and offers a power reserve of 42 hours.
Superplayer – Super Chronomat
Since 2022, football superstar Erling Haaland has been a Breitling ambassador
Haaland primarily represents the Super Chronomat, a chronograph of the highest calibre. His career isn’t merely measured in goals, but in braces and hat-tricks, already making him one of the world’s top footballers. Haaland is a perfect fit for Breitling’s ‘All-Star Squad’, which also features Greek basketball star Giannis Antetokounmpo and American snowboarder Chloe Kim.
Super Chronomat
B01 44
The Super Chronomat takes inspiration from the original Chronomat of the 1980s, which Breitling designed for daring aerobatic squadrons. Among Breitling’s customers, larger watches are highly popular, and for those with a preference for substantial designs, Breitling offers the Super Chronomat B01 44 with a 44 mm case. This model is available in stainless steel, red gold, two-tone, as well as platinum and titanium options. Ceramic inserts enhance the bezel, chronograph pushers, and crown. The Super Chronomat can be paired with either a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet or a rubber strap in the Rouleaux style, and customers can choose between dial colours in black, blue, ice-blue, or green. All Super Chronomat B01 44 models are powered by the Manufacture Calibre B01.
Chronomat Automatic 36 Victoria Beckham
The Chronomat range is also available in smaller case sizes – 32mm, 36mm, and 38mm –primarily aimed at female customers. The highlight of the collection is the collaboration with fashion designer Victoria Beckham, introduced in early 2024. Known for her refined designs, Beckham’s brand has become a fixture on major fashion runways, making her an ideal partner for Breitling, one of the most sought-after brands in the watch industry. This limited edition comprises 1,500 pieces: 400 of each of the three steel variations and 100 of each of the three gold variations. Dial colours include dove grey, peppermint, midnight blue, and sand, inspired by Beckham’s latest fashion collection. The watches are available in both stainless steel and yellow gold, with the latter reintroduced by Breitling specifically for this collection. The models feature numerous intricate details that make them particularly unique. To commemorate the partnership, the dials display both the Breitling logo and Victoria Beckham’s initials, subtly positioned on the seconds hand. Additionally, the dial bears the word ‘Chronometer’ as a nod to the watch’s COSC certification, with ‘One of 400’ on the steel versions and ‘One of 100’ on the gold versions. Another elegant touch is the subtle integration of the VB/Victoria Beckham logos along the clasp of the bracelet.
Special Editions
For something exceptional, explore the Chronomat special editions
Chronomat B01 42 Triumph
For the third time, British motorcycle brand Triumph and Breitling have collaborated to launch a special edition, or rather, two editions: the Chronomat B01 42 Triumph and the Chronomat B01 42 Triumph Speed Triple 1200 RR. The latter is limited to just 270 pieces and is exclusively available to owners of Triumph’s Speed Triple 1200 RR Breitling Limited Edition motorcycle. Both models feature a titanium case with accents in 18-carat red gold. The limited-edition version has a carbon fibre dial, complementing the motorcycle’s design, with the motorcycle’s serial number engraved on the caseback.
Chronomat B01 42
Six Nations
As the official watch partner of the Six Nations Rugby Championship, Breitling introduced a limited Chronomat series in 2023, dedicated to the unions and federations that make up the Six Nations: England, Ireland, Wales, Scotland, France, and Italy. Each Six Nations variant is limited to 150 pieces, engraved with ‘One of 150’. The Six Nations Edition retains all the iconic features of the Chronomat, with unique dials in each team’s colours and each team’s emblem on the subdial counter at 9 o’clock and on the caseback. All Six Nations Chronomat models come in 42 mm stainless-steel cases and are powered by the Breitling Manufacture Calibre B01, which has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and a date display at 6 o’clock.
Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo
Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo
In collaboration with long-time brand ambassador and basketball star Giannis Antetokounmpo, Breitling has introduced a special Chronomat edition. Giannis, who has played with the Milwaukee Bucks in the NBA since 2013 and is a two-time MVP, is celebrated as one of the best basketball players in the world. This special edition includes two watches that capture his style and personality.
The Chronomat GMT features a 40 mm stainless-steel case, while the Chronomat B01 has a case (and optional bracelet) in 18-carat red gold. The dials of both models are in a custom green hue, inspired by Antetokounmpo’s team colours. His initials, ‘GA’, are subtly placed on the central seconds hand, adding a personal touch, while a basketball icon adorns the small seconds subdial counter. The Chronomat GMT is powered by the Calibre 32, a self-winding mechanical movement based on the ETA 2893-2 with a 42-hour power reserve. The Chronomat B01 42 is equipped with Breitling’s in-house Calibre B01, with a power reserve of around 70 hours.
The Chronomat Giannis Antetokounmpo models come with two bracelet options. The Chronomat GMT is fitted with a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet, while the Chronomat B01 Chronograph offers either a green rubber strap in Rouleaux style or an 18-carat red gold Rouleaux bracelet. The GMT models are limited to 1,750 pieces, while the B01 model is produced in a limited run of only 250 pieces.
Anniversary Edition
Die erste Chronomat mit ewigem Kalender
To celebrate Breitling’s 140th anniversary, the brand is introducing the Super Chronomat B19 44 Perpetual Calendar 140th Anniversary. This special edition incorporates the hallmark Chronomat design elements, including four raised rider tabs, an onion-shaped crown, and a rubber version of the iconic Rouleaux bracelet. For the first time, however, the dial is skeletonised, adding a distinctive, modern flair to the classic design.
A standout feature of this anniversary edition is the debut of Breitling’s in-house Calibre B19 with a perpetual calendar. This exceptional calibre includes a full calendar and a moonphase complication, and automatically adjusts for months with 28, 30, and 31 days, as well as leap years. The anniversary Chronomat boasts an impressive power reserve of around 96 hours, and the solid gold rotor is engraved with a tribute to the historic Breitling manufacture on Rue de Montbrillant in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This distinguished villa housed three generations of the Breitling family and was much more than just a production site.
Each limited edition watch for the anniversary comes with a luxurious, velour-lined wooden presentation box. Owners will also receive an exclusive deluxe copy of Breitling: 140 Years in 140 Stories (Rizzoli, 2024).
