In the world of architecture, there are constructs where you ask yourself, how they can withstand the enormous weight by a seemingly fragile method of construction. A similar example from watchmaking has just been introduced by Breguet with their Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395, where all supporting elements have been reduced so heavily, that they almost seem not to exist. However, the movement runs as reliable just as the seemingly fragile constructs stand solid as rocks.
Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
In comparison to its two predecessor models from 2013 and 2017, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat has experienced a true metamorphose. Although it has the same case and lug design and pretty much the same movement (calibre 581), yet it is so different. The plate and bridges were skeletonized by 50 per cent and all visible parts guilloched, engraved or chamfered in every detail.
On of the most beautifully skeletonized watches of all
First introduced in 2013, the extra-plat calibre 581 became one of the thinnest automatic movements with a tourbillon at a mere height of 3mm. One way to archive this was to place the rotor peripheral along the plate. A method commonly used in flat watches today. Also the mechanics remains entirely visible. Now, the tourbillon of the new reference 5395 has been revised. A pinion, that was usually mounted on the tourbillon cage has been removed and now engages directly to the wheel train. The silicon escapement has been given a distinct angled shape to better adapt to the flat skeletonized movement.
The extra-plat calibre 581 has a mere height of 3mm
There are quite some complexities going on in this watch. To start with the flat construction of the tourbillon, that – due to a modernized barrel – reaches an unusual high frequency of 4 Hz and a power reserve of 80 hours. Although the individual movement parts are as light as a feather, the movement needs some stability in order to properly work. The rotor, the tiny meshing gear wheels or the barrel all generate some forces that need to be absorbed somehow. Inside Breguet’s Atelier they have successfully managed to remove as much material as possible without compromising the functionality.
No restricted view – the rotor is placed peripher around the plate
It seems that the craftsmen have literally hold on tight to to the few remaining surfaces. Every visible space has been thoroughly taken care of. ‘Clous de Paris’ hobnailing has been created on the skeletonized plate by a diamond-tipped guilloche tool. The diamond burin is supposed to create an even more distinct splendour. The sharp edges have been chamfered with a file to a 45-degree bevel. The skeletonized movement is bedded into a typical Breguet fluted case and the holes borders have been cut out by hand to frame the 33 jewels and are also chamfered.
The plate and bridges were skeletonized by 50 per cent
We love the blue details: just like the hour markers in blued gold and the Roman numerals that have been applied onto the sapphire glass together with the traditional blued moon-tipped hands and the ‘Breguet’ lettering on the prominent bridge. The platinum version comes with a dark blue strap – it would however also go very well with the rose gold case.
Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is a very good example of what the art of skeletonizing really means. With their horological savoir-faire, Breguet succeeded to aesthetically upgrade the rather sober look of a famished movement.
Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395
The Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 comes with a grey movement in a rose gold case or a rose movement in a platinum case. Price: 217.400,- Euro (in gold), 232.300,- Euro (in platinum)
The Classique 5395 is available with a rose gold or platinum case
We recently spent a great day with Steve Guerdat, his horses and a historical Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona at his stables in Elgg, located around 40 kilometers east from Zurich. Not only that Steve is a very pleasant and grounded person, he is also the current world’s best Show Jumper. Although Steve knows much more about horses than…
Swisswatches recently headed over to Hamburg in order to see and celebrate the official launch of Tudor’s second ever mono-brand boutique. Our editor Catherine Bishop reports back on what the space has to offer Tudor clients from far and wide. When one hears Tudor, one thinks of David Beckham, the All Blacks, and of course…
What lies at the heart of H. Moser watches? They boast bold colours, harmonious shapes, and minimalist designs that can be daring yet are always exquisitely crafted. These timepieces provide a refreshing alternative to ostentatious status symbols, oversized logos, and the extravagant luxury often associated with many Swiss watch brands. Remarkably, they have even chosen…
An exclusive Porsche meeting on the Grossglockner – is it worth paying a trip to the F.A.T. Mankei hut? It certainly makes for a particularly special experience for the owners of the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – GP 2023. At this Porsche summit meeting of a very special kind, the best of the best from…
It's fair to say that across the Swiss watch industry, it is men's and unisex watches that tend to be the most technically interesting. A timepiece that breaks this trend, however, is Van Cleef's Lady Arpels Heures Florales. Charmingly beautiful on the surface, this watch is in fact a horological masterpiece. Van Cleef & Arpels’…
At first glance, one could almost forget that this new Breguet model—limited to just 250 pieces—is a precision timekeeping instrument, despite the fact that much of its intricate mechanism remains visible even while worn on the wrist. The Breguet Tradition 7035 stands as a symbol of 250 years of aesthetic refinement and innovation. Today, Abraham-Louis…
Exactly 100 years ago, in the year 1921, Louis Charles Breguet shared his ambitious vision to introduce airplanes that could reach an altitude of up to 13,500 meters and complete the distance from Paris to New York within six hours. Louis Breguet, great-great-grandson of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823), wanted to make air travel possible for as…
Any Rolex fan who looks at the title of this article will immediately spot something new – the Rolex Submariner Date is now available in 41 mm for the first time. What's more, the new generation models – with seven new versions in total – are accompanied by a 41 mm No-Date Submariner (Ref. 124060).…
To crown a timepiece “the most beautiful everyday watch of all time” is of course entirely based on personal taste, and there really have to be several strong arguments in its favour. From aesthetics, design, wearability and readability to history, price, and technical feats, it is not a title to bestow lightly. Yet the IWC…
Since 2021, Richard Mille and Ferrari have been working together — two companies both renowned for technical innovation, distinctive design, and exceptional performance. In 2022, this partnership produced its first creation: the RM UP-01 Ultraflat Ferrari, a watch with a case height of just 1.75 mm that captured the attention of both experts and watch…
The new stars at Swiss watch-brand Carl F. Bucherer are not again Hollywood actors or sport enthusiasts as brands usually commit as ambassadors to represent their products, but 188 manta rays! The reason is mainly the brands support in The Manta Trust, a UK registered charity committed to protecting and ensuring the survival of manta rays…
The OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is a sporty all-rounder that works just as well at a yacht club as in the city. A combination of cutting-edge technology and practical features qualify this watch for everyday wear. With a price of 5,600 euros, the timepiece is also a perfect choice for first-timers entering the luxury segment. The Aqua…
We very well remember the first time spotting tennis genius Raphael Nadal wearing an obvious big watch during matches. And not only for a soft warm up but during speedy rallies in his familiar aggressive style. How can this be comfortable? Nadal was not wearing an average steel case watch but a dedicated high-tech time-‘machine’…