Panerai’s Grande Complications: The Technical Finesse of The Italians
When people think of “Panerai”, they most certainly associate it with Italian flair and the Submersible – the characteristic diver’s watch with the crown protection bridge. But Panerai does Grande complications too. We present some highlights from the tinkerers in Neuchâtel.
Perpetual Calendar PAM0715
With the Luminor Perpetual Calendar, Officine Panerai offers a perpetual calendar that focuses on the most important information. Accordingly, only the day and date appear on the front. However, the Italian lettering “Calendario Perpetuo” reveals the complexity inside. The other displays are found on the back. The sapphire crystal back presents the month, leap year and even a digital year display.
The case measures 44 mm and has the classic cushion-shaped design. It is made of either the company’s own Platinumtech or Goldtech alloys. The dial, designed for clarity and simplicity, presents the essential elements – hours, minutes, day and date. There is a GMT hand that offers an additional time zone. The small seconds also serves as a day/night indicator.
The movement, manufactured by Panerai in Neuchatel, is self-winding thanks to a micro-rotor. Two barrels provide a power reserve of 72 hours. The fact that the day, date, month and leap year can be adjusted without tools or pushers simply by turning the crown is a further proof of the watchmakers’ expertise. This is even possible at the end of the month and at midnight.
The complication is available in the Luminor Calendario Perpetuo Goldtech (PAM0742) and Platinumtech (PAM0715) versions. There is also a variant with a transparent dial (PAM01269).
Minute Repeater PAM00600
The PAM00600 is for lovers of acoustic watch enjoyment. The Panerai complication features a double minute repeater that indicates the hours and minutes for two different time zones as a sequence of tones. The watchmakers install three gongs and three hammers for this purpose. The repeater can be set to local or home time using a pusher in the crown and can also be triggered manually.
The skeletonized dial features a 24-hour display at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. There is also a GMT hand for an additional time zone. The P.2005/MR movement integrates two barrels and offers a power reserve of 96 hours. A display on the back shows the remaining power reserve in days. The in-house tourbillon system with vertical rotation is also included.
Equation of Time PAM00920
The Panerai L’Astronomo, the Italian company’s technical flagship, is a tribute to Galileo Galilei. The inventor of the telescope is known for his discoveries in astronomy. Accordingly, the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon Moon Phases Equation of Time GMT 50 mm offers a wealth of celestial complications. The focus is on the equation of time: it indicates the difference between the actual time (solar time) and the generally accepted time.
The skeletonized front features the equation of time and the sunrise and sunset display. Also included are the month, polarized date and small seconds. As if that wasn’t enough, Panerai has also added a GMT hand. On the back, an artistic moon phase with 24-hour display awaits the wearer.
The case measures 50 mm to allow room for the mechanics. There is a choice of four case versions: titanium, titanium DLC, Goldtech and white gold. There is also a range of four different hand types to choose from.
The P.2005/GLS caliber also integrates a tourbillon that rotates the balance wheel perpendicular to its axis rather than around it. In addition, it only needs 30 seconds to rotate instead of the usual 60 seconds. Despite all the wealth of functions, the movement offers a power reserve of 4 days, which is visible on the back.
The Panerai complication offers a water resistance of 10 bar or 100 meters. The watch is only produced on customer request and personalized according to the coordinates of a selected location.
The twin-spired cathedral bells chime over the square by Cologne's main square. The warm scent of bakeries wafts across the space as commuters dash past, fixated upon catching their train from the adjacent central station. Locals sprawl themselves across the steps leading up to the Gothic cathedral, incidentally Germany's most visited landmark, while businessmen stride…
Roger Dubuis presents the Knights of the Round Table: Omniscient Merlin, an homage to the mythical wizard from Arthurian legends. With intricate craftsmanship, the watch features a dial inspired by the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland, showcasing hexagonal towers as well as the 12 micro-sculpted knights. This timepiece is a limited edition of 28 pieces,…
The models composing the Classique collection are pieces of timeless aesthetic that symbolise the ultimate Breguet style. The new rose gold Classique Extra-Plate 5157 is a symbol of class and a timeless addition to the collection. Its self-winding movement with silicon balance spring is housed in a 5.45mm case with delicate fluting on the caseband,…
Audemars Piguet has introduced a new piece in the Royal Oak Concept collection, designed in collaboration with artist KAWS. This watch features a miniature KAWS Companion character and an innovative peripheral time display, showcasing the brand’s commitment to creativity and haute horlogerie. Case The case of the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” is made of…
To mark its 20th anniversary last year, Dior surprised us with the comeback of the Chiffre Rouge, the first mechanical watch to emerge from a maison that is best known for its haute couture fashion and significantly less so for its haute horlogerie. However, this could soon change thanks to LVMH's ever-growing expertise in the…
Hublot presents the Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon SR_A by Samuel Ross in a new colourway. The watch was unveiled during Miami Art Week and is the result of the collaboration with the artist and designer Samuel Ross. The timepiece features a 44 mm carbon case with a honeycomb pattern and a sapphire crystal dial. The…
Audemars Piguet is presenting the Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Music Edition consisting of five new Royal Oak Offshore models dedicated entirely to the world of music. The Tapisserie dials are emblazoned with a colourful equaliser motif, and the cases also feature a number of allusions to audio technology. In addition to two titanium variants, there…
At the novelty’s presentation during SIHH in 2018, Piaget with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept revealed the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. Measuring only a height of 2 mm thanks to a case that formed part of the movement, a unique, integrated winding crown, an ultra-thin crystal and a new construction for the barrel and…
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Calendar has a reversible case that houses two dials. The main dial offers a full calendar with moon phases, while the back features a second time zone with day/night display. The watch appears in stainless steel on the one hand and, as an elegant alternative, with a pink gold case.…
As early as the end of the 18th century, Breguet had laid down clear design codes, such as the famous hand-guilloching of dials in gold or silver. Among other things, the watchmaker created the eponymously named Breguet hands with their openworked "pomme" tip. Another ever-recognisable feature has to be the eccentrically arranged dial, taking inspiration…
Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has unveiled three new models in its Royal Oak Offshore collection. These Selfwinding and Selfwinding Chronograph novelties come in 37 and 43 mm sizes, demonstrating a range of materials such as colored rubber, stainless steel, 18-carat pink gold, and black ceramic. These timepieces introduce fresh bronze, ivory, and blue…
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Paneristi community, Panerai has unveiled the Luminor Venticinque PAM02025. This limited edition (1.000 pieces) watch has just been presented at the P-Day event in Kuala Lumpur on October 4, 2024. The timepiece will then be available to the public in September 2025 with a pre-order period for members…
Montblanc is introducing an impressively designed new watch, of which only eight pieces are available – the Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton LE8. The watch features a fully-skeletonized, three-dimensional movement. The watch comes on a brown Sfumato alligator leather strap from the Pelletteria atelier in Florence. The polished case of the Montblanc Star Legacy…