The masterminds behind OMEGA strive to be ahead everyone else. A milestone and watch for which the brand is probably most remembered by is the OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, which was the first watch they shot to the moon in 1969. That is nearly 50 years ago. In 2015, OMEGA introduced the world’s first Master Chronometer, a watch that is tested to its very limits by the renowned Swiss METAS (The Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology). A good reason for Swisswatches blog to travel to OMEGAs headquarter in Biel and find out everything about Master Chronometers.
METAS – the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology
Until then, the renowned COSC certification that most watches possess has been a standard level of high quality achievement for watches. The classification Chronometer (the term used for COSC certified watches) is only reserved for watches with a very high accuracy. OMEGA and Swiss METAS have established a new 8-step test program, which now reaches a new level of classification and is only used by OMEGA so far. However, it can be taken advantage of by any watch brand. METAS is responsible for nearly all certifications in Switzerland – comparable to the German TÜV. Until 2015, they have never allocated certifications for wristwatches.
Hightech inside the laboratory
Members of staff from METAS come twice a week to the Institute’s own office at OMEGA and randomly pick calibres for examination. OMEGA takes this so serious that they allocated METAS a dedicated workspace at the fabric in Biel, which of course is strictly out of order for OMEGA members of staff. This leads to an authentic and transparent process for OMEGA and its customers in terms of quality. Each watch is now subjected to eight separate examinations, with every step carefully checking for function and accuracy.
METAS and OMEGAS 8-step examination
Part of this is – besides testing the average daily precision of the watch – its functionality during and after exposure to 15.000 Gauss magnetic field. That causes an enormous stress for the sensitive watch calibre and has an immediate impact on its accuracy. OMEGA is one of the few watch brands to be able to withstand such high magnetic exposure.
Exposure at 15.000 Gauss
First of all the calibre is tested on its own– in a second step the calibre inside the case. This is important because the calibre reacts differently when sitting in the watchcase. In today’s world, magnetic fields are all around (tablets, phones, even hairdryers) and therefore most watches are magnetic resistant up to a certain level. By the way, METAS only starts certificating watches resistant from 15.000 Gauss and more! OMEGAs goal and METAS requirements are to have a deviation of a maximum of plus 4 seconds per day. This is a remarkable achievement as most COSC certified watches have a deviation from minus 4 to plus 6 seconds per day. At OMEGA, minus is not an option any more because a few seconds ahead makes us just over-punctual rather then delayed. Swiss efficiency at its best.
The calibers are tested inside and outside the case
Another important part of the test phase is the water resistance of a watch. Even after METAS certification, OMEGA watches still are around 30 % more resistant than classified. Let’s say it is marked at 500 meters, it is approximately 650 meters resistant in real time, It now takes 25 days for all steps of tests until the watch will be classified a Master Chronometer. With COSC certification it only takes up to 10 days. OMEGA has pioneered this technology and is able to classify up to 200 watches as Master Chronometer per day. Their goal is to have this classification on all OMEGA watches by 2019.
Realtime conditions
Every owner of a Master Chronometer will receive a certification card. With its identification number they can track all test results of their personal watch online! The model OMEGA has chosen for this is the Globemaster which has first been introduced in the 1950s.
Whenever Raphael Nadal sweeps across the court for hours again while wearing his Richard Mille watch, the sportsman doesn’t have to care any longer about damage that might be caused by overwinding. Thanks to Richard Milles newest invention: a declutching rotor system. Given that the Richard Mille testimonial already owns one of the only 100…
The case of the newest collection CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has a complex architecture which required the use of dedicated tools and sophisticated hand finishing techniques. It has an octagonal middle case with a round extra-thin bezel and stylised arched lugs. The case’s multiple geometries and ergonomic curvature made the conception, manufacturing and decoration of each…
The first mention of Tudor dates back to the year 1926, when Hans Wilsdorf first had the trademark ‘The Tudor’ registered. Six years later, the name would start to appear on several watches. Then, in 1936, Wilsdorf had the actual brand ‘The Tudor’ transferred over to himself. As an Anglophile and eventually a British citizen,…
Richard Mille's company history is marked by an unprecedented rise. In 2001, the first Richard Mille watch, the RM 001, made an immediate impact with its tourbillon regulator and a six-figure price tag, causing the brand to stand out from the crowd from the get-go. Almost as legendary was Richard Mille's decision to throw the…
Glashütte – the renowned town of German watchmaking – is home to Nomos, an innovator that has gained international acclaim for its minimalist design, aimed at achieving the maximum with minimal resources. During a visit to the manufacture, we had the opportunity to follow the entire process of creating a Nomos watch – from raw…
‘Born in Saxony’ – so goes the slogan of Lang & Heyne, a watch manufacture from the small German town of Radeberg near Dresden. It’s a name known only to true connoisseurs and watch aficionados; only around 150 watches are crafted here every year, with the utmost attention to detail. ‘Born in Saxony’ is not…
Back in 2004, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey founded the Greubel Forsey watch brand. In 2007, the two watchmakers bought an old 17th-century farmhouse and converted it into an atelier, where they now combine traditional craftsmanship with modern Haute Horlogerie – making it one of the few places where a manufacture embodies the products created…
A few weeks back we were kindly invited to discover the new Panerai manufacture headquarter which is idyllically located in the mountains just above a lake near Neuchâtel, the heart of the world of fine watchmaking. It’s equipped with incredible advanced technologies, a ‘think tank’ department called The Laboratorio di Idee, the RFID system to streamline…
Swisswatches team headed to Switzerland to discover the stories, innovations and people behind the Hermès watchmaking division, from the brand’s impressive production site in Le Noirmont to its serene watch assembly and leather workshops at the La Montre Hermès atelier in Brügg. To read our interview with the division’s CEO, Laurent Dordet, please click here.…
Maybe the founder of the AkriviA can be called the ‘enfant terrible’ of the watch industry, but in a positive, eccentric way. We have already introduced the brand and master watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi. He created an atelier that not too many people know about, yet which offers so much potential. The master watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi focused at work…
The German manufacture Glashütte Original has firmly earned its place alongside some of the most reputable of Swiss brands. Glashütte Original combines traditional watchmaking and craftsmanship with the almost implausible ability to adapt to new economic, political and cultural conditions. These lines were not written by the author of this text, but by the CEO…
Once, the small village of Fleurier in the Swiss canton of Neuchâtel has been an important place for watch making. But in the 1970s the quartz crisis had a major impact on the watch industry in Fleurier. At that time a young watchmaker called Michel Parmigiani was faced with the decision either to become an…
We are standing in Glashütte in front of a mileage post from 1734 next to the A. Lange & Söhne manufacture, which signals the distances to the surrounding villages and towns. Back then, the post indicates, it took six hours and fifteen minutes to get from Glashütte to Dresden by horse-drawn carriage. Glashütte was nothing…