A Hidden Gem: Patek Philippe Aquanaut ‘Luce’ Ref. 5261R-001
It seems that over the last decade, Swiss watch manufacturers have been taking a leaf or two out of the tech companies’ books. As well as getting more sophisticated, their new releases seem to be getting larger in diameter almost on an annual basis. So much so with wristwatches that the more traditional of collectors are spending more time in the vintage market to solve this issue for themselves. Things got extra real earlier this year when Patek Philippe took a step back and released a watch that could be enjoyed thoroughly, both by men who prefer smaller watches or women who prefer larger watches, due to its modest size. This watch is of course the new Aquanaut Annual Calendar Ref. 5261R-001. A watch that is part of the ‘Luce’ collection, but more closely represents the regular Aquanaut collection.
First Aquanaut with Annual Calendar
Besides coming in at 39.9 mm in diameter, the Ref. 5261R is also the first Aquanaut ever with an annual calendar, making it the the most complicated Aquanaut ever (not including Advanced Research Ref. 5650G). The 18-carat rose gold case is sublimely paired with an blue-grey dial and matching rubber strap, ensuring the watch packs a punch both on the outside and on the inside; historically a very successful combination for the Swiss manufacture. Besides the case size and the advanced mechanical movement which emulate the regular Aquanaut collection, the Ref. 5261R also shares the dial pattern with the regular Aquanaut collection. It differs from those in the ‘Luce’ collection in that it has much narrower and shallower grooves; a welcome addition which prevents the dial from appearing cluttered as there is already plenty going on between the single aperture, 3 subdial counters, and twelve Arabic numerals.
The 5261R does, however, retain some characteristics from the ‘Luce’ collection, such as the thinner butterfly clasp and strap, this time keeping the deeper embossed grooves. That being said, one could see the strap style instead as a nod to those used in the vintage era of Aquanaut, such as the collectable Ref. 5065. The 5261R also keeps the water resistance depth of 30 metres, instead of the 120 metres that its larger brothers are able to reach. This perhaps is the only major criticism of the watch on a non subjective basis. It is after all an Aquanaut and so should be equipped with a screw down crown at the very least.
New moonphase design
A more opinion-based criticism arose in response to Patek Philippe’s decision to flip the movement architecture round with the moonphase at the top as opposed to the bottom, which is more conventional amongst annual calendars. Some call it the Cyclops because of how it appears on the dial, half overlapping the 12 o-clock numeral. I have to admit, it took a while for me to come round to it as well, but that ‘while’ ended when I handled the piece in person. The renders used in the press release and website do this watch no justice. Once in the flesh, all those raised eyebrows about the dial layout fizzle away and all that can be seen is the perfect proportions of the watch and how well the blue is paired with the warm hue of rose gold, which in the smart confines of a Patek salon appears more resemblant of a yellow gold.
The new Ref. 5261R is certainly an obscure watch to say the least, and many are probably struggling to figure out what Patek’s objective really was. It seems to be an amalgamation of so many new and rather interesting decisions from the brand. With the smaller case size in a gold hue that appears more yellow and a strap similar to that found on the Ref. 5065, it seems Patek is injecting small doses of vintage inspiration to the new Ref. 5261R. Perhaps this could be the brands way of subtly testing the waters for something else, such as a reintroduction of other smaller sized gents sports models in yellow gold. Perhaps a Nautilus? This is something many esteemed enthusiasts (myself included) would be well receptive of. It is of course a complete unknown, but one which may become more clear in the brand’s next release of watches. After all, it’s been nearly two decades since Patek last used yellow gold in a gents sports model, and therefore it remains the only brand from the holy trinity without one in the current collection.
One thing is for sure. This watch is certainly not overlooked by male clientele and nor should it be. Already in extremely high demand, it carries importance as the first Aquanaut annual calendar and presented in a new modest case size – something quite refreshing to say the least. I know that when I say that, I am also speaking on behalf of many other enthusiasts and collectors who have longed for something of the kind. It is still a watch which divides opinions, but for that reason it finds itself in fantastic company. The first examples of the Rolex Daytona, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and various other Patek Philippe references were all divisive at the beginning, but ended up becoming very collectable later down the line and for those who could see the value at their inception, they proved to be more than fruitful purchases. The Patek Philippe Ref. 5261R-001 in my opinion will be no different, and in the future we may all look back through a clearer set of lenses.
Yesterday morning at 9 AM (CET), with a quick refresh of my safari page, Patek Philippe dropped seven new watches to its sports collections. All of them carry precious stones and are aimed towards the female clientele of the brand. This is truly the season for minute repeaters; as well as the new Ref. 1938…
If there’s one thing you should know about Frederique Constant, it’s that the brand is on the up. In recent years, under the savvy leadership of CEO Niels Eggerding, the Swiss horology house has streamlined its watches, refined its target group, and is simultaneously shifting into a higher quality environment. This shift ranges from commerce,…
The watch industry has something of a penchant for superlatives, but it would be no exaggeration to say that this is, in many ways, the most exciting new product of the year: the Patek Philippe Cubitus. For the manufacture, it is the first new watch collection in a quarter of a century – the predecessor…
Amongst other things, Bulgari specialises in ultra-thin watches. With the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the brand has now set its tenth world record in this field in the last eleven years: the thinnest mechanical watch with a tourbillon. Heralding its first appearance at Watches and Wonders 2025, Bulgari is presenting this extraordinary watch, which is…
As was the case last year, the 2020 CODE 11.59 by Audemars Piguet line breaks numerous boundaries, but everyone knows that when it comes to Audemars Piguet, the line still isn't the star of the show. But does that mean it can't become an iconic part of the watchmaker's portfolio in the future? Audemars Piguet…
Montblanc is a brand with a great tradition. So is its Minerva manufacture, the maker of historic and once extremely sought-after monopusher chronographs. Ever since Minerva became part of Montblanc, new monopusher watches have become amongst the most stylistic, defining, and successful models of the house. The latest reference is also very much in line…
The TUDOR Black Bay 58: the Black Bay’s old-school, slightly smaller sibling. Following its introduction in 2018, the watch returned to the limelight last year when TUDOR released its acclaimed navy blue version. Both versions certainly have legions of faithful fans – but for me, the original still prevails. If Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf were…
In 2018, Carl F. Bucherer celebrated its 130th anniversary. For this occasion, CEO Sascha Moeri presented some special jubilee editions – and at the end of last year, he even revealed the release of a brand-new product family. There it is – the new ‘Heritage’ collection will from now on be enriched by the savoir-faire of…
To those relatively new to watches, the term ‘independent’ can often appear to be thrown around like a cheap joke on Christmas Day, making them wonder what on earth the term actually means? Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are privately owned watchmaking firms and so, at least in a business sense, ought to be considered…
What we spotted on YouTube this morning, is a great example of how self-ironic and contemporary the watch industry can be. It is probably the most amusing idea on demonstrating the merits of a mechanical watch, that a brand published in a long time: An elderly smart dressed gent seeks advice about a smartwatch in a…
Voltaire knew that “Perfect is the enemy of good.” In this sense, the excitement of Davide Cerrato, Managing Director Montblanc Watch Division is completely justifiable. He currently has one of the brand's best watch stories to tell – the origins of the Montblanc Heritage Small Second Limited Edition 38. He calls this watch “magical”, a…
At Watches and Wonders 2025, Tudor is turning a new page – while remaining true to its proven strengths. Among this year’s novelties are the Pelagos Ultra, offering an impressive water resistance of 1,000 metres; the Black Bay 68 – an entirely new model with a 43-millimetre case; and an updated version of the Black…
Exactly 100 years ago, in the year 1921, Louis Charles Breguet shared his ambitious vision to introduce airplanes that could reach an altitude of up to 13,500 meters and complete the distance from Paris to New York within six hours. Louis Breguet, great-great-grandson of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747–1823), wanted to make air travel possible for as…