Richard Mille’s latest creation, the RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon Sapphire, represents a bold exploration of material and form. Unveiled in April 2025, this limited-edition trilogy marks the first time the brand conceived a movement specifically for a sapphire case. Drawing inspiration from Gothic vaults and the fluidity of water, the collection spans three expressions: a fully clear sapphire edition (15 pieces) and two bi-coloured versions pairing clear upper bezels with lilac or blue lower sections (10 pieces each). Beyond its crystalline exterior, the RM 75-01 stands out for its fully skeletonised calibre, which features a flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock and a fast-rotating flying barrel—both suspended without upper bridges to accentuate the airy architecture. Crafted from blocks of sapphire requiring over 1000 hours of machining and polishing, the three-part case reveals every nuance of the calibre within. The flange, in micro-blasted 5N red gold supported on satin-polished titanium pillars, recalls Gothic ribbed vaults, while touches of Super-LumiNova dramatise the scene after dark. At its heart, a Grade 5 titanium baseplate in gold PVD combines rigidity with lace-like finesse, hosting a manual-winding movement that offers hours, minutes and roughly 65 hours of power reserve. Despite its technical artistry and scratch-resistant shell, the RM 75-01’s 30 m water resistance and bulky 14.35 mm height may challenge everyday practicality. Legibility is nuanced due to the skeletonised dial. Yet for collectors who prize avant-garde transparency and architectural drama, this sapphire tourbillon stands as a singular statement.
The RM 75-01 case is a technical tour de force: bezel, caseband and caseback are milled from solid sapphire blocks, a material second only to diamond in hardness. Achieving micron-level tolerances requires over 1 000 hours of machining—430 hours for preforming and 350 hours for polishing—plus anti-glare treatment on both sides of the front and back crystals. Available in three limited versions—fully clear sapphire (15 pieces), clear upper bezel with lilac lower bezel (10 pieces) and clear upper bezel with blue lower bezel (10 pieces)—each case embodies Gothic inspiration through its wave-like curves and pillar-like edges. On the practical side, sapphire’s scratch resistance and warm, smooth surface make for a comfortable wearing experience. Yet the 46.75 mm length, 32.90 mm width and 14.35 mm thickness give the watch a substantial presence on the wrist. Water resistance is rated to 30 m, secured by two nitrile O-rings, which limits its everyday robustness. Assembly relies on 24 spline screws in Grade 5 titanium and abrasion-resistant 316L washers. While the transparent architecture impresses, the complex machining and delicate nature of sapphire cases also mean caution is needed to avoid chipping under severe impact.
Rather than a traditional dial, the RM 75-01 employs a fully skeletonised presentation, placing its architectural calibre front and centre. A 5N red gold flange frames the movement, featuring polished and micro-blasted steel markers filled with luminous material. Minute and hour indications are discreet yet legible against the multi-layer structure. The openworked construction highlights every machined bevel, burnished pivot and micro-blasted surface, integrating form with function. However, the intricacy can challenge quick time reading—users must decipher arches and pillars from hands. Colored sapphire variants introduce a subtle tint that can further affect contrast. Despite these drawbacks, the dial’s sculptural depth and architectural rigor make it a standout feature, revealing the movement’s skeleton lacework and emphasising the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
At the heart of the RM 75-01 is a manual-winding calibre conceived specifically for the sapphire environment. Measuring 29.71 × 20.78 × 5.45 mm, the movement uses 18 jewels and runs at 3 Hz (21 600 vph). Its Grade 5 titanium baseplate, treated with 5N gold PVD, resembles metallic lacework: an ultra-rigid aerospace alloy that supports involute-profile gear teeth, a flying barrel and the flying tourbillon without upper bridges. This ‘floating’ architecture reduces parts count, strengthens visual rhythm and maintains shock resistance. Technical highlights include a free-sprung, variable-inertia balance, with an angle of lift of 50°, an Elinvar balance spring and KIF Elastor shock protection. The fast-rotating flying barrel completes a revolution every 5.2 hours, minimising mainspring adhesion and optimising torque delivery for a ~65-hour power reserve. A barrel pawl with progressive recoil boosts winding efficiency by 20%, while involute-profile barrel teeth ensure smooth torque transmission. Finishing is meticulous: hand-angled and polished bridges, sapphire-blasted milled sections, burnished pivots, rhodium-plated wheels with diamond-tool chamfering and satin-finished steel parts. The result is a mechanical sculpture—minimalist in element count but rich in architectural complexity and finishing pedigree.
Complementing the watch’s aquatic inspiration, it comes fitted with rubber straps that lend a casual yet refined touch. The strap’s flexibility and bi-material construction prioritise comfort and secure wear, even with the watch’s sizeable dimensions. A titanium folding clasp ensures a precise fit, though its solidity adds weight at the caseback.
Richard Mille will offer the RM 75-01 Flying Tourbillon Sapphire exclusively through its boutiques in limited runs: 15 pieces in clear sapphire and 10 each in lilac-tinted and blue-tinted variants. Pricing has not been officially disclosed but is expected to reflect the extensive machining, bespoke movement and exclusivity—likely positioning it among the brand’s highest-tier offerings. Delivery will begin in late 2025, subject to allocation by geography and collector demand. As with previous limited-edition tourbillons, waitlists and boutique reservations are anticipated.
FEATURES
