The History of the Dress Watch: Elegance for the Wrist

Although wristwatches already existed in the 19th century – for example, around 1880 Girard-Perregaux produced watches to be worn on bracelets for the German Navy – the wristwatch as we know it is a product of the 20th century. Both are still as relevant and in demand in the 21st century. Discover the fascinating history of the dress watch and explore some of the most outstanding examples from the past year here.

The wristwatch: a true success story

Companies such as Rolex, Record Watch, Ebel, Enicar, Glycine, Mido and Baume & Mercier laid the foundations for their success stories during the first two decades of the century. 

As early as 1908, for instance, Rolex was offering Swiss-made wristwatches in the United Kingdom. At that time, however, pocket watches were still considered the height of sophistication for gentlemen, so wristwatch manufacturers initially focused on more fashion-oriented models for women.

Other men, however, quickly recognised the advantages of having a watch on their wrist – whether in the trenches, on horseback, behind the wheel of a motor vehicle, or in an aircraft cockpit. In this way, the wristwatch owes its rapid development and triumph over the past century to women, military personnel, and aviation pioneers.

Naturally, these watches were equipped with a mechanical hand-wound movement. In terms of style, manufacturers tailored their designs to their target audiences, emphasising decorative or fashionable elements on the one hand, and functional or robust features on the other.

Minimalist dress watch designs were still a long way off. In the meantime, designers and engineers indulged their creativity, experimenting with unconventional appearances to appeal to new customer segments, from the case to the dial and the strap.

But there were also exceptions and early precursors to the dress watches that were to come, such as the Calatrava Reference 96 with a 30.5-millimetre case from Patek Philippe, dating from 1932, which connoisseurs refer to as the original dress watch.

What are the origins of the dress watch?

From the early 1940s onwards, creativity in watch design began to decline. Men in particular turned away from the previously popular square, ‘chunky’ models in favour of round, flat, understated – and therefore less functional – wristwatches. These were also easier to seal than shaped movements.

The round form gradually emerged at this time – and remains so today – as the natural shape of a watch. Many manufacturers subsequently set out to develop flatter cases and movements. Noteworthy is the 2003 calibre from Audemars Piguet, dating from 1946, which measured just 20 millimetres in diameter and 1.64 millimetres in height and was used in the Discovolante, among other models.

During the Second World War, precious metals were once again chosen as materials for watch cases. The Great Depression, inflation, and war had taught people that gold and platinum were secure currencies in times of need.

The history of the dress watch began during this period, when they were first worn on the wrists of men. By the early 1950s, elegant, round designs dominated manufacturers’ collections.

In 1956, Samuel Guye (a little-known author of watch reference books) commented on this development: ‘Fashion favours very simple case lines, flat and very flat watches with large dial openings, and uncluttered dials with as clear as possible indices and hands.’

In essence, he provided the definition of the classic dress watch that still holds true today.

When did dress watches first appear?

There is no definitive answer to this question. Remarkably, there are no verified sources indicating when the term ‘dress watch’ – the counterpart to the German word Anzuguhr – first appeared. Both terms are believed to have first emerged in watch catalogues, specialist literature and trade magazines in the 1960s or 1970s.

Conversely, there is a general consensus that dress watches draw inspiration from the elegant watch trends of the 1950s. These watches feature simple designs, polished precious metal cases, dauphine hands and leather straps. Their functionality is reduced to the essential purpose of telling the time.

Timepieces from this era continue to shape our image of the classic Anzuguhr, worn with formal attire. Their defining characteristic: understated elegance.

Despite this restrained approach to design, the watchmakers of the time achieved something truly remarkable: with a keen sense of balanced aesthetics, they created a category of watches that has endured for eternity. While dress watches in the 1950s were primarily designed for men – women’s watches were decidedly more ornate – today, dress watches are genuine unisex timepieces.

Dress watches: then and now

The elegant look of the dress watch has never really gone out of style. Today, it is more on-trend than ever. At the same time, just as in fashion, the distinction between dress watches for men and those for women is becoming increasingly blurred – a shift that is likely linked to Generation Z’s changing role perceptions.

After years of preference for sporty, multifunctional watches, a recent study by Chrono24 and Fratello magazine shows a clear shift among those born between 1997 and 2012 towards the understated elegance of dress watches.

But it is not only younger watch enthusiasts who appreciate the formal look of the 1950s on the wrist. Dress watches are popular across all age groups. As a result, Swiss watch brands have long featured such models in their collections – whether as reissues or reinterpretations of historical originals, or as newly designed retro pieces in the dress watch style.

Traditonal definition versus modern intepretation of a dress watch

Much like the increasingly blurred categories of men’s and women’s watches, the ‘dress watch’ label has also evolved over recent decades. It should be noted that the following criteria are not absolute, but rather reflect the broadest commonalities in contemporary descriptions.

What defines a traditional dress watch?

Let us first consider the traditional description of a dress watch, which draws closely on the inspiration of the 1950s.

The definition is as concise as the design is minimal: flat, simple in design, leather strap, fits neatly under a shirt cuff. The motto is clear: it may attract attention, but only when the watch is deliberately observed.

The focus remains on the wearer and their formal attire. For the individual components of a dress watch, this means:

The case should be made of precious metal or polished steel, with a maximum diameter of 38 millimetres and a height of no more than nine millimetres. The bezel should be smooth, narrow, and untextured.

Historically, an elegant dress watch has been powered by a mechanical movement. While a hand-wound movement still allows for a slimmer profile than an automatic, modern automatic movements can also meet the strict criteria of a classic dress watch, thanks to innovations such as peripheral rotors or micro-rotors.

Hour, minute, and, at most, seconds hands provide sufficient functionality for a classic dress watch. After all, it is intended to be a discreet companion rather than an interactive accessory. Pushers, as found on chronographs, would hinder its smooth passage under the cuff. Traditionally, a display caseback is also not included.

The dial’s appearance is clean and uncluttered, with applied indices preferred over numerals. Colours are timeless and restrained, such as white, champagne, or silver, providing a backdrop for slender, polished dauphine or baton hands, while the seconds hand remains understated.

What defines a modern dress watch?

The variety of modern dress watches on today’s market shows that many no longer adhere strictly to the traditional definition. As in most areas of life, what matters most is personal taste. Modern dress watches for men and women can be slightly larger, thicker, sportier, more colourful, more sparkling, and/or more functional. Of course, this naturally draws the attention of traditionalists, who might prefer the term ‘business casual’.

However, the more open-minded watch collectors would argue that times change. Contemporary designers excel at combining the essence of the dress watch – a reliable, elegant timepiece that complements rather than dominates formal attire – with the wearer’s desire for individuality.

Sources:

• Schweizer Armbanduhren (Gisbert L. Brunner (Editor), Christian Pfeiffer-Belli (Editor))
• Armbanduhren: 100 Jahre Entwicklungsgeschichte (von Helmut Kahlert (Author), Richard Mühe (Author), Gisbert L Brunner (Author))

Credit Cover Image @ Phillips (Patek Philippe’s Calatrava Ref. 2526 from 1957)