If there’s one thing you should know about Frederique Constant, it’s that the brand is on the up. In recent years, under the savvy leadership of CEO Niels Eggerding, the Swiss horology house has streamlined its watches, refined its target group, and is simultaneously shifting into a higher quality environment. This shift ranges from commerce, as it begins to open mono-boutiques, to trade fairs, having recently made the move from Inhorgenta to Geneva Watch Days – not to mention gaining a spot at Watches & Wonders, aka the crème de la crème of Swiss watchmaking, for the first time last year.
Frederique Constant is also honing in on its highly limited ‘Manufacture’ models, from the Highlife Perpetual Calendar to the Manufacture Tourbillon. Such watches allow the still relatively young Swiss watch manufacture to exhibit its finest work, all the while enticing new customers from entry level clients to seasoned watch collectors. As a result, enthusiasts across the board can relish the spoils of their recent ambitious horological endeavours. One such piece: the new Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Aventurine.
As the name suggests, this highly limited collector’s piece, of which a mere 36 pieces are available, really exemplifies what Frederique Constant has been getting up to over in the high watchmaking department of the manufacture. Its two defining features: an ethereal aventurine dial and a tourbillon with small seconds. We saw the launch of the first Classic Tourbillon Manufacture take place back in March in 2023, and alongside various iterations, Frederique Constant also soon treated its followers to a special edition with meteorite dial. So how does this latest piece differ?
Given it’s where much of the magic happens, let’s take a look at the dial first. At the heart of the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Aventurine lies its extraordinary dial, comprising a singular piece of aventurine glass. This material, reminiscent of a starry night sky, adds a layer of cosmic depth to the watch – and don’t forget that given this is a natural mineral, each dial is unique to the other pieces. That makes these limited editions not too far off being unique pieces, depending how idealistically you want to look at it.
Aventurine, a quartzite which is found primarily in India, is best known for its shimmering effect, caused by inclusions of tiny mineral particles, thus creating a mesmerising background for a watch dial – and for the sentimental amongst you, a fun fact: aventurine gets its name from the Italian word avventura, meaning by chance, risk or luck.
As with previous versions, the dial’s design is accentuated by Frederique Constant’s signature Heart Beat aperture at 6 o’clock, which provides a window into the intricate mechanics of the tourbillon. This signature aperture aims to showcase the horology house’s commitment to transparency in craftsmanship with its open view, while also providing the wearer with a handy view of the seconds hand as it revolves within the tourbillon. Thus, the dial can retain a more purist feel by forgoing a seconds hand on the main dial. Likewise, the hand-polished markers and hands also found on previous models include applied diamond-cut indices and hand-polished hour and minute hands. This minimalist aesthetic ensures there is nothing to distract from the horological star of the show at 6 o’clock.
Protecting the intricate tourbillon and precious aventurine dial is a 39 mm white gold case; an elegant choice that corresponds to the size of all previous editions of the Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture. The case’s modest dimensions (39 x 10.99 mm) in combination with its high-end design make this a pretty versatile piece, suitable for both formal occasions as well as, if you don’t mind your wrist sparkling over a business lunch, a bit of everyday wear. The choice of white- as opposed to rose-gold also makes the limited edition watch that bit more subtle. The smooth, subtly polished surfaces of the three-part white-gold case in combination with the well-proportioned case also allow the aventurine and tourbillon to take central stage.
Finally, the individual limitation number is engraved onto the caseback. A navy blue alligator leather strap with tone-on-tone stitching accompanies the white-gold case, which also provides the timepiece with water-resistance to 30 m.
Beneath the glittering aventurine lies the movement that powers the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Aventurine: the FC-980-4 calibre. The added ‘4’, for those who know their calibres, merely applies to this being the fourth generation of the movement; it is not to be counted as an additional movement alongside the horology house’s total of 33 in-house movements. This self-winding movement is not just a mechanism for keeping the time, but also a nice example of the Geneva-based manufacture’s in-house expertise and craftsmanship.
Indeed, the attractive movement behind this limited edition showcases hand-bevelled chamfers, beading on the bridges, straight-grained flanks, and a mirror polish that puts the manufacture on a par with its prestigious watchmaking neighbouring. It’s also worth mentioning the movement’s use of a silicon escapement: silicon, known for its resistance to temperature changes and magnetisation, ensures that the movement remains unaffected by the everyday environmental factors that can disrupt mechanical precision. Therefore, the movement’s longevity increases, while simultaenously keeping it precise. The calibre FC-980-4 has a 38-hour power reserve and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz.
Time to look closer at the 80-part tourbillon, perched inside the oversized Heart Beat aperture framed by a ring. The bridge of the tourbillon is carefully engraved with the limited series number, a subtle yet significant detail for collectors. As metioned, a subtly integrated hand provides the seconds inside this handsome tourbillon with blued screws.
So is the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Aventurine by Frederique Constant one for collector’s? Mechanism aside, the aventurine dial is definitely a catch, not least because of its special unique qualities and unrivalled ethereal aesthetic. This semi-precious stone is not to be brushed off as merely a pretty face, either, as it tends to be reserved by watch brands for the most prestigious of watches – think Omega’s incredible Speedmaster Chrono Chime, Audemars Piguet’s stunning Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon editions, or Van Cleef & Arpel’s record-breaking Midnight Planetarium.
Indeed, the fact that Frederique Constant opted for this material on the dial indicates the importance that the brand lays upon the Classic Tourbillon Manufacture model as a stalwart of fine watchmaking at the horology house – and, one hopes, a sign of things to come.
Delivery of this extraordinary watch will begin in November 2024. Price: 39,995 euros.
