Vacheron Constantin stages eternity – and a tourbillon – for its anniversary
For 270 years, Vacheron Constantin has been striving to capture time with measuring instruments that are as technically as they are aesthetically sophisticated. This is reflected in the anniversary creations such as the three models of the Traditionnelle Open Face Anniversary Edition. Of course, the limited-edition Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar also bears all the hallmarks of a watch from the Swiss manufacture.
With 127 pieces, the platinum timepiece celebrates the lifetime of its creator with two grand complications and a look inspired by the century of its birth. This means that observers can enjoy the unashamedly classical appearance of the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetuel Calendar, which comes in a fluted and offset 42-millimetre case with a railway-track chapter ring.
This provides the perfect setting for the inner workings. These are the newly developed automatic manufactory calibre 2162 QP/270. Despite its complexity, consisting of 324 components, it is only 6.55 millimetres high, thus contributing to the slimline case design.
To reconcile the sophisticated functionalities of the perpetual calendar and tourbillon with the relatively limited space available, the movement designers drew on one of their own achievements: the ultra-thin automatic movement 2160 with peripheral rotor, which was first used in the traditional tourbillon in 2018. It is just 5.65 millimetres thick – and that’s without the perpetual calendar.
The new calibre 2162 QP/270 doesn’t take up even a millimetre more space for this second grand complication. In terms of diameter, 1.79 millimetres have been added. Vacheron Constantin has made optimal use of this extra space to integrate the perpetual calendar. It displays the day of the week, date, month and year. It also takes into account leap years, so no correction is needed until 2100.
If the watch has not been worn for a long time and has been wound by moving the wrist, it will of course temporarily stop working and will need to be reset. The calibre 2162 QP/270 allows this for both the clockwise and anti-clockwise date. This is made possible by a flexible pin on the escape wheel.
When fully wound, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar provides a power reserve of 72 hours. This impressive autonomy is also due to the leisurely pace of the movement, with 18,000 vibrations per hour. The higher the frequency, the greater the energy consumption – and vice versa. The 18,000 vibrations per hour, or 2.5 hertz, also allow the mechanical choreography of the tourbillon to be admired amidst the traditional architecture of the perpetual calendar.
In addition to its energy-generating function, the peripherally arranged oscillating weight also allows generous insights into the new calibre, which refers to the 270th anniversary with understated engraving and a côte unique cut. The latter was used by Vacheron Constantin more than a century ago, but was only rediscovered in 2021, when a faithful reproduction of the 1921 Historiques American was released.
To regain mastery of the required technique, 500 hours of study and training were required. Only then did the unique Côte decoration find its way back into some of the manufactory’s works, as it now does into the 2162 QP/270. Each of the 127 pieces in the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar must be precisely aligned to achieve the desired visual effect. This can be seen through the sapphire crystal back. This painstaking attention to the implementation of historical processes illustrates the great authenticity of Vacheron Constantin when it comes to combining the past and the present.
This also applies to the design of the silver-plated gold dial, which is intricately hand-guilloched with a pattern reserved for the 270th anniversary editions. It was only natural that the guillocheur responsible should draw inspiration from the emblematic heritage of the manufactory. Foremost among these is the Maltese cross, which has been Vacheron Constantin’s trademark since 1880.
‘A testament to the Maison’s ability to constantly reinvent itself while maintaining traditions, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar strikes the right balance between aesthetic and technical legacy on the one hand, and a new story that is just being written on the other,’ explains Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin. Price: 317,000 EUR.
