Any Rolex fan who looks at the title of this article will immediately spot something new – the Rolex Submariner Date is now available in 41 mm for the first time. What’s more, the new generation models – with seven new versions in total – are accompanied by a 41 mm No-Date Submariner (Ref. 124060).
Ref. 126610LN (With Date) – Ref. 124060 (No Date)
Ultimately, there’s far more to the hype than this simply being an article revealing the latest Rolex novelties. With us having already met with Rolex and seen the novelties in the metal, we are ready to share exactly what the hype of the new Submariner models is all about.
Ref. 126610LN (with Date)
The Case and Bracelet
Obviously, the most noticeable update is, as Rolex puts it, the watches’ “slightly larger” size, now measuring 41 mm. To someone without an interest in the watch world, this would seem a somewhat ridiculous amendment from its previous 40 mm diameter. However, this isn’t all about looks – a rarity for Rolex, some might say – rather, this is about wearability. Not only is the case slightly larger, but also, several other elements help to make the watch more comfortable on the wrist.
NEW versus OLD
NEW versus OLD
Ref. 126613LN
The watchmaker has introduced slimmer lugs (0.5 mm, to be precise) and a wider bracelet. When comparing the old and new bracelet (now 21 mm x 19 mm), it must be said that the new one is something we never knew we wanted. The subtle change in diameter is more wearable, and offers a more sleeker, bolder, more shapely Submariner that fits slightly better with the personality of collection, as well as the wrist. Whether or not you approve of the changes, the overall adjustment in bracelet and case size has created significantly better proportions.
NEW versus OLD
The updated three-piece link Oyster bracelet uses Rolex’s Oysterlock folding safety clasp. Its only real change is its aforementioned broader width. In all honesty, the majority of Rolex Submariner wearers are most likely not avid divers. Nevertheless, this patented mechanism does allow for peace of mind when wearing a coveted Rolex piece. It also integrates the brand’s Glidelock extension system.
This is of course nothing new. However, it is generally regarded as one of the highest quality clasp and bracelet designs in the world, and that is always worth a mention. It also highlights a prevalent motif regarding Rolex novelties; consistency. Clearly, the brand literally only changes what needs to be changed, and steers clear from wasting time with unnecessary, confusing small amendments to its watches.
Materials
This is the part many people have really been waiting for – what materials are being offered in the latest iterations? Firstly, the latest iteration of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner without a date display, the Submariner Ref. 124060 (No-Date) is once again housed in a stainless-steel case. Of course, it is evident that the watch has needed few obvious updates because it’s already an indestructible crowd-pleaser.
Submariner Ref. 124060 (No-Date)
However, it’s also obvious that the continued choice of stainless steel is to ensure that the watch maintains its monetary value. For some, this decision to restrain from more exciting materials may have a charming appeal. Meanwhile, to others, it will appear to be limiting, calculated and conservative.
Submariner Ref. 126610LV
That said, the seven new versions with a date function do not disappoint. All of them are equipped with Cerachrome bezels (ceramic and ‘chrom’, the latter meaning colour in Greek). Meanwhile, the bezel markings are either PVD gold or platinum. By contrast, the case and bracelet materials vary from Rolesor and Oystersteel to white gold or yellow gold.
Dials and colours
While Rolex avoid making too many small adjustments, there is a simple and subtle way to differentiate between Rolex Submariner 41 mm 2020 editions and their predecessors; the new-generation models feature the brand’s crown between the words ‘SWISS MADE’ at 6 o’clock. Furthermore, there appears to be a slight change in typeface.
Ref. 126610LN (with Date) & Ref. 124060 (no Date)
Ref. 126613LB
Colour Combinations
Furthermore, 2020 also brought some new colour combinations. Thus, the exact materials and colours used on the seven Submariner Date novelties are as follows:
Ref. 126610LN: Oystersteel with black dial and black bezel, harking back to the original Submariner design
Ref. 126610LV: Oystersteel with a black dial and green bezel, creating a distinctive colour combination.
Ref. 126613LB: Rolesor – Oystersteel and 18-carat yellow gold – with a blue dial and matching blue bezel
Ref. 126613LN: Rolesor – Oystersteel and 18-carat yellow gold – with a black dial and black bezel
Ref. 126619LB: 18-carat white-gold with a black dial and blue bezel
Ref. 126618LB: 18-carat yellow gold with a blue dial and matching blue bezel
Ref. 126618LN: 18-carat yellow gold with black dial and black bezel
Ultimately, the colour combinations and materials remain a matter of taste. While some would never dream of a yellow-gold Rolex with a blue dial and bezel (it’s not exactly subtle, or an everyday option), others will likely fall in love with the bright and bold colour combination.
Ref. 126613LB and Ref. 126618LN
By contrast, a more subtle option is the white-gold 126619LB, combining a classic Submariner-style black dial with a blue bezel – a good move given the amount of attention blue has been receiving in the watch world. Meanwhile, the 126610LV’s green bezel is likely a response to the discontinuing of Rolex’s ‘Hulk’ model. Therefore, this green bezel model is likely to be a new favourite. Indeed, rumour has it that one official Rolex dealer has already received over 1,000 orders for it. This is not surprising, as speculations of a green execution already circulated in watch forums for quite a while.
Ref. 126619LB
Ref. 126610LV
Overall, the latest combinations of materials and colours appear to be level-headed and intelligent choices by Rolex, putting a contemporary 2020 spin on the historic line’s latest watches. All seven versions will likely prove very popular, not least the models with blue or green bezels.
Rolex Submariner 41 mm 2020: Updated Movement
Finally, the movement is naturally a talking point. The Submariner Date has switched over to the calibre 3235, while the Submariner without a date function uses the 3230. Both calibres, which now offer an extended power reserve of 70 hours, incorporate Rolex’s Chronergy escapement, which is known for being efficient and reliable. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. Furthermore, both movements are fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring. This makes it 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in the case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex over-coil, ensuring regularity in any position. Finally, the oscillator is fitted on Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movements’ shock resistance.
Calibre 3235 with date
Ref. 126610LN
It is worth analysing what we can derive from Rolex’s switch to these two movements. Firstly, what the movements demonstrate (as always) is Rolex’s excellent, reliable and technologically advanced watchmaking abilities. However, if we put these calibres into a black and white perspective, they’re simply reliable, precise self-winding movements with a 70-hour power reserve. This is a significant increase of power reserve in comparison to previous models, however it’s not something that’s totally out of the ordinary in mechanical watches these days. Therefore, the calibre updates can be seen as a much-needed change, with benefits including better precision and a longer-lasting power reserve. However, it’s 2020, and this change is exactly what a Rolex Submariner should now be providing – but it’s not going to send anyone into a frenzy.
Calibre 3230 without Date
Ref. 124060
The Verdict
Rolex is a brand that centres itself around excellence, and the Rolex Submariner 41 mm 2020 models are the perfect demonstration as to why; there’s arguably no need for any eccentric or ambitious new features. Rather, the watches are simply part of Rolex’s steady and reliable ability to impress and endure. Evidently, this has been achieved this year through calibre, case and bracelet updates. That said, sooner or later, there is likely to be a divide in the watch community. Many are always looking to see big, exciting changes in what is already a fast-paced industry.
Ref. 126613LN
However, this is not Rolex’s general approach. Rolex is rather a brand that calmly and calculatedly focuses on the gradual evolution of its products. While Rolex watches such as the Submariner continue to be popular, this leaves us with a question. Are we always going to be happy with Rolex’s continuous ‘slow and steady wins the race’ attitude, or is it about time for a Rolex revolution?
When genius and madness come together in watchmaking, Greubel Forsey is the place to be. While some people feel satisfied once they have understood the fundamental principles of a mechanical three-hand watch, even the most complex complications cannot really challenge Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey any longer. Their company logo reads: "Art of Invention" –…
Shortly before his untimely death, pop art icon Andy Warhol created a painting of three timepieces with a rectangle case and a bracelet with horizontal lines on a 111.8 x 111.8 cm canvas. Their colourful outlines diagonally stretch across yellow, mint, black, pink and red areas. The title of the artwork from 1987: Anatom (Rado…
If I had asked my history teacher at school what history actually was, he would have probably told me that it was all about the past. Unfortunately, I never asked him as I would have been staring out of the window, perhaps pondering the next great watch from Audemars Piguet. One thing, however, is certain:…
The Wempe branch on Munich’s Weinstrasse has been an integral part of the city for half a century, and has been managed by Marc Autmaring since 2009. Over the past 14 years, the engaging and determined manager has succeeded in further developing the location, tapping into new target groups and promoting close cooperation with renowned…
When the news spread on the second day of the fair that under President Trump, the US was planning to impose 31% tariffs on goods from Switzerland, a murmur went through the bustling corridors of the Palexpo exhibition centre in Geneva. But nobody wanted to let the mood be spoiled by the news – at…
The most important company and watch model anniversaries in 2025 and a (critical) look at the watch industry this coming year. Normally, we like to hold back on speculation at Swisswatches – and for good reason. The watch industry and the pre-owned watch market have experienced a surge in attention over the last five years,…
Earlier this year, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced several new timepieces that uphold the maison’s long-standing skills in the field of highly technical yet stunningly crafted jewellery watches. We decided to take a closer look at some of the brand’s imaginative new Lady Arpels models, including the Lady Arpels Casse-Noisette, Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté, and the Lady Arpels Nuit Enchanté. Combining tradition and innovation, the timepieces’ extraordinary dials collectively showcase…
As any watch enthusiast will know, it is often not just the aesthetic of a watch that enamours us: it's the story behind it. Cue the Reverso Travelling Collection, which is currently making a stop at Jaeger-LeCoultre's boutique on the prestigious shopping street Maximilianstrasse in Munich. The story behind the Reverso is a tale well-told,…
Funnily enough, horses used to terrify me. They seemed erratic and volatile. Walking through my local park, the lush green Englischer Garten in Munich, I would veer away mistrustfully to avoid the police horses trotting through. It wasn’t until a couple of years ago that I was swayed. I spent some of the pandemic on…
Watch enthusiasts in search of the extraordinary have always been in good hands with Wempe. The family-owned company has a keen instinct when it comes to choosing its partner brands – always knowing how to both delight and surprise its clientele. Wempe’s newest brand marks yet another premiere for Germany. Having once been the country’s…
A manufacturer of Swiss watches, leather goods and jewellery, Chopard enjoys a reputation for its elegant products. However, a certain game-changer elevated the company to new heights of watchmaking in 2016 with the introduction of Chopard's very first minute repeater. It was the crystal-clear Full Strike, marking the 20th anniversary of the manufacture. First appearing…
Swisswatches attended the launch of the new TUDOR Ranger in London back in July, and it was everything you’d hope for: ambassador David Beckham enthused about the tale behind the watch, guests drank smoothies out of ice cubes, and an Oxford scientist spoke enthusiastically about the importance of the British North Greenland Expedition. Since the…
Fans of classic wristwatches always get their fill in spring and autumn, because in May and November, the biggest houses hold their auctions in Geneva. Phillips, Christies, Antiquorum and Sotheby's each hammer out hundreds of watches, meaning it’s guaranteed that there will be something for everyone. For the past three years or so, however, the…