Last year, we explored the top timepieces of the Year of the Dragon, as various brands presented their own interpretations to herald the year in. The Year of the Snake, however, marks a particularly apt moment for one brand in particular, as it provides fashion house Bulgari with the perfect opportunity to reimagine its iconic Serpenti line. With the debut of the BVS100 Lady Solotempo movement, housed inside the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic, the maison is taking a step forward within the field of women’s jewellery watches.
Since its introduction back in 1948, the Bulgari Serpenti has occupied a unique place at the confluence of jewellery and horology. Born from a fascination with the snake as a symbol of infinity and transformation, it has continually evolved, each iteration reflecting the zeitgeist while staying true to its mythological roots. While the Serpenti first appeared in the form of a sprung tubogas bracelet that wound itself elegantly around the wrist, it was not until a decade and a half later, when Elizabeth Taylor donned a diamond Serpenti, that the watch’s popularity truly took off. As her beau and co-star Richard Burton at the time wryly commented: “The only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari.”
The new Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Automatic Ref 103905
From the Garden of Eden to Medusa’s hair, the serpent has long captivated human imagination and culture, appearing in myths, religion and art as a symbol capable of taking remarkably many forms. The serpent motif’s role in jewellery reached new heights of popularity during the late 1830s, when Queen Victoria marked her engagement to Prince Albert with a ring shaped like a snake, winding its way around her finger. For Bulgari, it has become a defining motif – both as a nod to its Roman heritage and a platform for boundless creativity. In the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic, the watch’s sensuous lines and intricate details evoke the timeless grace of the serpent. “Serpenti is not just a design,” supplies Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Executive Director of Watch Design, “It’s a lens through which we reinterpret femininity, power, and the cycles of life.”
The new Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas Automatic Ref 103903
The Serpenti Seduttori’s distinctively supple hexagonal bracelet scales – described by the maison as a ‘second skin’ – and the refined curvature of its case echo the movement of a serpent in motion. These aesthetic choices are not incidental but central to the Serpenti’s enduring appeal for women across the globe, while mastering the art of uniting form and function. On that note: the watches also offer water resistance to 30 m.
Central to the Serpenti Seduttori’s evolution is the new BVS100 Lady Solotempo movement, developed entirely in-house at Bulgari’s Le Sentier manufacture in Switzerland. Naturally, this is not the first mechanical movement to appear in the collection. Indeed, the original model from 1948 was a mechanical timepiece, with the Serpenti originally being equipped with some of the finest movements of its era. Today, Bulgari reconnects with this heritage through the Lady Solotempo movement, developed and produced entirely in-house at its manufacture in Le Sentier. This latest calibre now joins a prestigious family of horological achievements, following the Tourbillon in 2020 and the Piccolissimo in 2022.
The all-new automatic calibre, which equips the dainty watch with hours, minutes, and seconds, offers up several technical highlights. The star of the show is the remarkably handsome oscillating weight, etched with snake-scale patterns and visible through a sapphire crystal caseback, providing an intimate view of the movement’s inner workings. Offering a 50-hour power reserve and precision engineering, it transforms the Serpenti Seduttori from solely a decorative masterpiece into a sophisticated watchmaking triumph.
The commitment to mechanical innovation by Bulgari’s Le Sentier-based watchmakers and craftsmen is evident in every detail of the BVS100 Lady Solotempo movement. The integration of an automatic movement reflects a deeper engagement with the traditions of Swiss watchmaking, while the design’s thematic coherence – from the snake motifs to the rubellite cabochon or cabochon-cut sapphire crown – anchors it firmly in the maison’s artistic heritage.
The new 34 mm Serpenti Seduttori Automatic models cater to a range of tastes, from understated elegance to unapologetic opulence. The ‘everyday’ stainless-steel and rose-gold editions, for example, offer a contemporary simplicity, their black or white opaline dials and diamond-set bezels striking a careful balance between luxury and restraint. At the other end of the spectrum, full pavé designs in yellow or white gold glitter with hundreds of diamonds, making for the perfect evening piece.
A particularly compelling design in yellow gold features no fewer than 273 diamonds on the bezel and a further 336 on the pavé dial, underscoring Bulgari’s capacity to marry excess with sophistication. Meanwhile, the so-called Tubogas variation, with its 35 mm case and distinctive bracelet, evokes the historic design language of the Serpenti while adapting it for a contemporary audience.
In the small yet powerful new Serpenti Seduttori Automatic, Bulgari has struck a delicate balance: respecting the weight of the iconic line’s legacy, while advancing into new territories of craftsmanship and innovation. The result is not only a watch but a narrative – one that speaks to the eternal cycles of renewal and transformation.
