Alongside the news that Rolex is increasing the size of its new-generation Submariner models, the horology house has also decided to go large on its 2020 Oyster Perpetual watches, which are now available in 41 mm for the first time. What’s more, Rolex has made space for the seven sizeable new watches by bidding goodbye to its 39 mm models. Finally, the icing on the top of the cake is the inclusion of a vivid and upbeat new range of dial colours.
Oyster Perpetual 41 mm
Oyster Perpetual 39 mm (discontinued)
The Case
Rolex’s decision to make its entry-level watch 2 mm larger certainly responds to the current demand for larger watches. Furthermore, it’s possible that, similar to the new 41 mm Submariner editions, Rolex is exploring how to improve wearer comfort. In any case, men who like to wear watches measuring no less than 40 mm will likely welcome this change.
The Dials
The first thing to acknowledge is that Rolex is clearly hopping onto a trend with the models’ brightly coloured dials. We’ve seen them numerous times in the past few months, most recently from Carl F. Bucherer presenting a whole new range of colorful watches. As well as more conservative silver, blue, or black sunray dials, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 mm is also available with lacquered dials of coral red, turquoise blue, green, or yellow dials. They’re beautiful colours – some of which we’ve seen before – that sit well with the Oystersteel case and matching Oyster bracelet.
While the idea is not exactly unique, the appeal of this bright collection is that they are Rolex Oyster Perpetuals. The array of fun, cheerful dials is, after all, much-needed. Furthermore, it may create a wider audience by appealing to those wanting a less traditional-looking Rolex. Finally, the fact that the majority of the Oyster Perpetual 41 mm watches are more quirky in colour – and have switched to blue Chromalight – brings a more eye-catching touch to the brand’s least conspicuous but much-loved line.
Indeed, as with the increased case size, it is surprising that the Oyster Perpetual watches are becoming more conspicuous. Hopefully, this does not affect the line’s more modest feel. On a separate note, all of the dials of the 2020 Oyster Perpetual models (in all sizes) incorporate a design feature that definitively distinguishes them from the Datejust; double-dash indices at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
An Altered Dial Design
By contrast, the now-extinct 39 mm models had only single indices. Indices can be a real point of contention. Rolex made the change to double indices to set this line apart from the Datejust models. It also clearly marks the Oyster Perpetual as its entry level watch. However, the double indices arguably diminish the Oyster Perpetual’s markedly elegant design.
The Movement
Powering the 41 mm Oyster Perpetual models are Rolex’s calibre 3230, in action since earlier this year. It is already a very important movement for the brand. The self-winding mechanical movement led to the filing of several patents, and offers a solid 70-hour power reserve.
Furthermore, the calibre 3230 incorporates the horology house’s patented Chronergy escapement. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is insensitive to magnetic fields, enhancing the movement’s reliability. Also, the movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring. This is up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in the case of shocks. Additionally, the hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring regularity in any position. Finally, the calibre’s oscillator is fitted on the brand’s in-house, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, thus increasing shock resistance.
The inclusion of this movement is highly significant, given that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual hasn’t seen a calibre update in years. Furthermore, the Oyster Perpetual is ultimately an entry-level Rolex model. This makes it an incredible bang for the buck given the watch’s comparatively low price and high quality movement.
The Verdict
Ultimately, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 mm models really do bring a new feeling to the line. Not only are they bright (as are the new 36 mm models), but also, they incorporate an excellent movement for an entry-level model. The controversy primarily lies in the size, which, like the dial colours, seems to be a premeditated, financially motivated decision to follow current watch trends.
However, the watches do somewhat transform the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line from being almost enchantingly low-key and elegant into a something much more noticeable. While the noticeably different new design and calibre of the 41 mm models create both eye-popping and overall more contemporary pieces, they do undoubtedly diminish the charm of the horology house’s classic entry-level watch. Nevertheless, there’s certainly no doubt that the ambitious new models will sell – and fast.
Any Rolex fan who looks at the title of this article will immediately spot something new – the Rolex Submariner Date is now available in 41 mm for the first time. What's more, the new generation models – with seven new versions in total – are accompanied by a 41 mm No-Date Submariner (Ref. 124060).…
If there is one certain field that always strives for new material to make their products lighter (and hence more performing) then it is that of racing cars. And if there is a watch brand that strives for these same goals then it must be Richard Mille. So it is quite obvious that both fields…
A childhood dream has come true. Thanks to Mercedes-AMG and IWC Schaffhausen who teamed up at the Nürburgring 24-hours race to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the performance sports car brand of Mercedes-Benz, which took it’s name from the initials of the founders Hans Werner Aufrecht, Erhard Melcher and the town where it all began,…
Celebrating its sixth birthday this year, the Chopard Alpine Eagle enjoyed an ascent to ‘icon’ sports watch status in record time, allowing the maison to comfortably introduce a few new highlights to the indubitably popular collection at this year’s Watches and Wonders trade fair. Let’s take a look. Alpine Eagle: Three highlights for the men’s…
In this world, markets regulate the price – but they cannot always reflect the true value of a product. This is probably going to be the case starting from November 29, when, as part of Sotheby's Luxury Week, something extraordinary will be auctioned on Sotheby's website until 14 December: a 911 S 2.4 Targa from…
Whenever Raphael Nadal sweeps across the court for hours again while wearing his Richard Mille watch, the sportsman doesn’t have to care any longer about damage that might be caused by overwinding. Thanks to Richard Milles newest invention: a declutching rotor system. Given that the Richard Mille testimonial already owns one of the only 100…
Automatons remain something of an obscure phenomenon in our fast, technology driven world of AI and mass production. Even more little-known is the atelier of François Junod, which perches high atop the village of Sainte-Croix in Switzerland’s Jura mountains. However, a twist of fate recently propelled this already renowned workshop yet deeper into the world…
In 1957 the Soviet Union launches the Sputnik-Satellite, the fashion icon Christian Dior dies, Ai Weiwei was born, and John Lennon and Paul McCartney meet for the first time at a church-festival and later founded the Beatles. In the same memorable year, OMEGA released three new watches from their professional collection, which still today are…
Earlier this year, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced several new timepieces that uphold the maison’s long-standing skills in the field of highly technical yet stunningly crafted jewellery watches. We decided to take a closer look at some of the brand’s imaginative new Lady Arpels models, including the Lady Arpels Casse-Noisette, Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté, and the Lady Arpels Nuit Enchanté. Combining tradition and innovation, the timepieces’ extraordinary dials collectively showcase…
From a Rockstar point of view, IWC’s ‘Big Pilot’ watch has at least two advantages. First: being on tour, you can easily turn it into a bedside table clock due to its size and strong luminous power. Second: if you’re looking at pictures from past gigs one day, it just takes one glimpse onto the…
On 6 November, Christie's held what the auction house described as one of the most significant private collections it has ever auctioned. Exceptionally rare and historically important: this is the best way to describe the impressive collection of Mohammed Zaman, a collector from the Sultanate of Oman, who amassed the pieces over the last 40…
To crown a timepiece “the most beautiful everyday watch of all time” is of course entirely based on personal taste, and there really have to be several strong arguments in its favour. From aesthetics, design, wearability and readability to history, price, and technical feats, it is not a title to bestow lightly. Yet the IWC…
Breitling has been enjoying a new lease of life since mid-2017, under the new leadership of Georges Kern. His manufacture doesn’t simply offer a diverse array of models for the sake of wide-reaching popularity. Yet a broad appeal is exactly what the Swiss horology house is now enjoying. When Kern took over as CEO, he…