Despite the socially distanced set-up, this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 winners amazed us with just as many stunning watchmaking creations as usual. Take a break, pour yourself a drink, and get the lowdown on this year’s showstoppers.
Firstly, the Grand Prix de l’Aiguille d’Or went to Piaget for its Altiplano Ultimate Concept. Developed entirely in-house, the watch measures a mere 2mm – including the case and ultra-thin sapphire crystal protecting the dial.
Meanwhile, the Men’s Complication Watch Prize went to Greubel Forsey for its Hand Made 1. True to its name, 95% of this timepiece – including the hairspring – was made using only hand-operated tools. Each single watch requires 6,000 hours work.
Elsewhere, the Mechanical Exception Watch Prize went to Bovet 1822 for its Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Inside the iconic sloped writing case is Bovet’s patented double-sided flying tourbillon, a second-time zone with a twenty-four city disc, and a precision moonphase. Furthermore, the movement has a five-day power reserve.
The winner of the Horological Revelation Prize was Petermann Bédat, for its Dead beat second watch. This watch uses the Gafner system as its inspiration. Adjusted by hand to the hundredth of a millimetre, the manufacturing of its “anchor of second” component is incredibly complex.
The Chronograph Watch Prize went to H. Moser & Cie for its Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic. This watch boasts water-resistance to 120 m – and its chronograph even works underwater.
The winner of the Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize was Vacheron Constantin, for its Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton. The watch showcases an entirely open-worked, ultra-thin manufacture movement with perpetual calendar, the calibre 1120 QPSQ/1. Furthermore, the case is a mere 8.1 mm thick.
The Innovation Prize went to Parmigiani Fleurier for its Tonda Hijri Perpetual Calendar. The Hijri or Islamic lunar calendar consists of twelve months of 29 or 30 days – depending on the moonphase – and pinpoints Islamic holidays.
The Audacity Prize 2020 went to H. Moser & Cie for its Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F. The watch uses features from MB&F machines, such as the concept of three-dimensional movements. A one-minute flying tourbillon rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening at 12 o’clock.
The winner of the Challenge Watch Prize was the well-known Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight “Navy Blue”. Notably, the watch gets its name not only from its colour, but also from the year 1958, in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres (660 ft), the reference 7924/“Big Crown”, came into being.
The winner of the Diver’s Watch Prize was Breitling’s Superocean Automatic 48 Boutique Edition. Consisting of DLC-coated titanium, the watch’s soft-iron inner case offers protection against the effects of magnetic fields. Meanwhile, the bidirectional rotating ceramic bezel promises security thanks to a special lock on the left side of the case.
Elsewhere, the winner of the Men’s Watch Prize was Voutilainen’s 28SC, with SC standing for Seconde au Centre. The in-house movement of the watch from the Vingt-8 collection is designed, built, fabricated, finished and assembled entirely in Voutilainen workshops.
The winner of the Iconic Watch Prize was Bulgari for its Aluminium Chronograph. The watch features an aluminium case and rubber strap, while the dial is grey with black counters – creating a sporty yet sophisticated, and unmistakably Bulgari feel.
The Chronometry Watch Prize went to Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud for its FB 2RE.2. Notably, the watch celebrates 250 years since Ferdinand Berthoud was awarded the title of “Clockmaker and Mechanic by appointment to the French King and Navy”, with its new collection inspired by the Marine Clock No.6. The Chronomètre FB 2RE reinterprets the architecture and design of this Marine Clock. Its round, 18-carat gold case frames a grand feu enamel dial with a complex two-tiered construction.
The winner of the “Petite Aiguille” Prize was Breitling’s Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II. Limited to 1,000 pieces, the watch supports healthcare professionals tackling COVID‑19. Amongst others, charities include the likes of Fondation de France, Humanitas (Italy), National Center for Global Health and Medicine (Japan), and NHS (UK). Finally, the watch’s rainbow-inspired design elements remain a symbol of hope and optimism.
The winner of the Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize was Charles Girardier’s Tourbillon “Signature Mystérieuse” « fleur de sel », which offers not only a tourbillon, but also the “mysterious signature”. Thus, with each movement of the wrist, kinetic energy causes the two mobiles to move in opposite directions, finally returning to the initial position when the wearer tilts the wrist to read the time.
The winner of the Jewellery Watch Prize was Van Cleef & Arpels’ Frivole Secrète watch. Inspired by the “toi et moi” jewellery style, the bracelet watch features two different-sized floral motifs opposite one another on an open bangle. The larger of the two pivots to reveal a diamond paved dial.
Meanwhile, the winner of the Ladies’ Watch Prize was Bovet 1822, for its Miss Audrey watch. It houses an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Its design incorporates a green guilloché dial, inspired by the lotus flower.
Finally, the winner of the Artistic Crafts Watch Prize went to Van Cleef & Arpels for its Lady Arpels Soleil Féerique. The white-gold watch features a fairy celebrating Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Poetry of Time” through a vision of the universe on the dial. Additionally, the manual-wound movement has a 40-hour power reserve.
