What lies at the heart of H. Moser watches? They boast bold colours, harmonious shapes, and minimalist designs that can be daring yet are always exquisitely crafted. These timepieces provide a refreshing alternative to ostentatious status symbols, oversized logos, and the extravagant luxury often associated with many Swiss watch brands. Remarkably, they have even chosen to omit the words ‘Swiss Made’ from their dials, despite over 95 percent of their components being manufactured in Switzerland.
Through their four core collections – Streamliner, Pioneer, Endeavour, and Heritage –, Moser endeavours to bridge the gap between the past and the present, employing minimalist, often understated designs alongside their remarkable watchmaking expertise. In essence, they blend contemporary minimalism with the esteemed traditions of horology. In partnership with the luxury watch and jewellery retailer Bucherer, the brand is now unveiling three exclusive models – two from the Pioneer collection and one from the Endeavour collection – that truly embody this design philosophy.
All three models feature 40 mm cases and a refined aesthetic that prioritises quality, craftsmanship, and personal experience. This represents a return to the very essence of watchmaking, distilled to its core: exclusivity that transcends mere price or branding, achieved through exceptional execution and profound craftsmanship – essentially reduced to the fundamentals, true to Moser’s ethos.
This philosophy is particularly evident in the first timepiece presented in collaboration with Bucherer: the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon. This watch revisits the aesthetics of the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater, first introduced in 2019. The dial showcases bevelled, polished hammers and substantial gongs, presenting the minute repeater complication in its purest form.
As the complication that connects watchmaking to music like no other, activating the Teflon-coated slider on the side of the case sets off a series of gears that determine the current time and control the hammers, which subsequently strike the gongs. The sequence generates a clear yet melodic sound, beginning with the number of hours (represented by a single tone), followed by the quarters (with a double strike), and concluding with the number of minutes after the last quarter (with an additional tone).
However, minimalism in aesthetics does not equate to a compromise in craftsmanship; quite the opposite. These three models, each featuring a new ‘Amber Sand Fumé’ dial for the collection, require over 200 meticulous steps to create the vibrant colours and gradients that have become synonymous with Moser. The process unfolds as follows: first, an electroplating bath is employed to establish the base colour of the dial. Following this, a rotating machine is used to achieve the fumé effect, as the dial is spun while colour is sprayed at a specific angle, creating the signature gradient. According to the brand, historical photographs that adorn the former residence of the Moser family served as the inspiration for the dials, which distinguish the limited models from the core collection.
H. Moser & Cie. is a company steeped in history, having been founded in 1828 by Heinrich Moser. However, it experienced a renaissance in 2012 when it was acquired by MELB Holding. Under the leadership of CEO Edouard Meylan and his brother Bertrand Meylan, who heads the family’s holding company, the brand was revitalised. Edouard Meylan restructured and modernised the brand, enabling it to unveil at least one new manufacture movement each year since.
The hand-wound caliber HMC 904 of the H. Moser X Bucherer Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon
A noteworthy example of this is the HMC 804 manufacture calibre, featuring a power reserve of at least three days, which is found in the Pioneer Tourbillon Amber Sand. The tourbillon is a key component of the movement and is regarded as one of the finest-executed elements of a Moser watch. What sets Moser apart is their ability to produce essential components, such as the escapement, balance wheel, and hairspring, not only in substantial quantities for their own timepieces but also for other watch brands. In an interview in April 2022, CEO Edouard Meylan noted that while Moser produces around 1,500 watches annually, they manufacture 200,000 hairsprings. These are crafted at their subsidiary, Precision Engineering, which operates under the same roof as the Moser manufacture—a rarity in the watchmaking industry.
The final model in the trio, the Pioneer Centre Seconds Amber Sand, belongs to the sportier Pioneer line, alongside the Pioneer Tourbillon. The Pioneer collection, launched in 2015, has a more athletic profile than the Endeavour case and was created for those who appreciate traditional watchmaking while embracing a sense of adventure. The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, filled with Super-LumiNova, provide a clear indication of the time.
All three models are highly limited and come with premium price tags: the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon is a unique piece priced at EUR 395,000. The Pioneer Tourbillon Amber Sand is limited to 18 pieces and retails for EUR 63,200. Meanwhile, the Pioneer Centre Seconds is limited to 88 pieces, available for EUR 15,990.
