These days, Vacheron Constantin seems to reach new heights every five minutes. Ever more in the eyes of the public and not just connoisseurs, the horology house recently burst through the billion-franc mark, as it achieved a phenomenal 1.097 billion Swiss francs in sales. According to Morgan Stanley’s annual watch report, this amounts to an average watch price of 38,740 Swiss francs (before VAT, one should diligently add). This can largely be owed to the astounding success of its Overseas line as well as the continued hype surrounding the yellow-gold Historiques 222. Credit is also owed to the rising interest in Vacheron’s coveted artistic Les Cabinotiers models, which showcase the brand’s expertise in the area of traditional craftsmanship like almost no other, aside, perhaps, from Cartier’s Metier’s d’Art or Patek’s Rare Handcrafts.
Increasingly opting for mono-boutiques, the watchmaking company now counts prestigious addresses such as the affluent Maximilianstrasse in Munich, London’s Old Bond Street (where it even houses its own member’s club, The Hour Lounge) and Madison Avenue, New York amongst its sales points. And, as many of those who keep up with the latest industry happenings will be aware, the man credited with all this, Vacheron’s long-standing and ever-strategic CEO Louis Ferla, will soon be taking over from Cyrille Verignon over at Cartier – leaving the future path at Vacheron yet to be trodden. However: a new release from the prestigious watch manufacture allows a previously overlooked model to step into the limelight – and can even provide us with some insights as to how this model might come into its own as the brand as it enters a new era.
The modern-day Fiftysix Self-winding collection
First presented six years ago at the 2018 SIHH in Geneva and remaining a key offering of Vacheron’s ‘entry level’ pieces to this day, the Fiftysix is simple on paper: an automatic watch with three hands and a date display, day-date display, or pricier complete calendar editions, alongside even a tourbillon model. Rather dressy at first glance, these sleek watches are housed in steel or pink-gold cases. Vintage aesthetics, rounded edges and inner minute circles meet modernity with the dials’ alternating Arabic numerals and indices and luminous materials for 24/7 legibility.
1950s roots and a noteworthy history
As its namesake suggests, there is some real history at bay when it comes to the Fiftysix’s design blueprint. First created as a series in 1956, the revived model refers back to the Ref. 6073 created soon after, having featured (albeit significantly rounder) lugs reminiscent of Vacheron’s emblem, the Maltese cross. While to the 21st-century eye the reference may look like a pretty classical watch, it was modern for its time. Not quite an integrated bracelet, the lugs nevertheless enveloped the bracelet’s bars, while the inclusion of luminescence was far from common in such classic (as opposed to the increasingly popular ‘professional’ tool) watches. That said, the watch offered water resistance as well as a self-winding movement, the reliable calibre 1019/1, at a time when many manufactures still opted for manual-winding.
A new model with pink-gold case and black dial
While largely overshadowed by its superstar relatives – aka the 222 and Overseas –, a new addition to the collection may just have this Fiftysix Selfwinding edging its way into the limelight. Vacheron Constantin has just introduced a daringly designed new iteration featuring a black dial, 40 mm pink gold case, and anthracite nubuck calfskin leather strap – and I can tell you now, no one does straps quite like Vacheron. Let’s dig into the details.
The case
The case has a wearer-friendly diameter of 40 mm – the Ref. 6073, for history buffs and collectors amongst us, had a 35 mm diameter. Every Fiftysix model in the current collection also holds this case size, with the exception of a tourbillon housed in a 41 mm case. What does this tell us? Even as smaller case sizes gain traction, the size already works well for this dress watch, and, as they say, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. On the same line of thought, the handsome 18K 5N rose-gold case is nothing new, and still connects the strap via elegantly arched lugs evoking the Maltese cross. The case and lug shape (alongside a nicely balanced 9.6 mm height) in combination with glowing precious metal creates a very genteel look. Yet pragmatism also plays a role, with the case offering water resistance to a good 30 m.
Winning combination: The dial
The power of this new iteration lies largely in the fact that the case and dial are just so well matched. In my opinion, the contrast of jet black and warm gold tones can be a real winning combination when done right – take, first and foremost, A. Lange’s Honeygold Triple Split, although Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Selfwinding Black Ceramic 34 mm or perhaps Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Memovox Timer also come to mind.
Honing in on the details of this particular dial, though: the new Fiftysix Self-winding opts for a sector-type dial typical of watches produced in the 1950s. Moreover, for the first time in the collection, it is black. The dial features an opaline centre and sunburst decoration surrounding chapter ring, which, as our photography demonstrates, plays beautifully in the light despite its dark colour. Interestingly, Vacheron watches in the 50s usually opted for light-colour dials such as beige, the Ref. 6073 included – making the decision to opt for black a bold one. It looks like bold decisions can pay off.
The colour contrast – and thus heightened legibility – continues with the black dial’s applied pink-gold Roman numerals matching to the case, along with the hour-markers and hands coated with luminescent material. The bright blue colour of the lume is also exceptionally well done, adding a refreshing and very contemporary touch to the watch. Vacheron’s Maltese cross and namesake also perch on the dial at 12 o’clock, with the former also accentuating the shape of the lugs. Last but not least, a box-type sapphire crystal tops the bezel in the style of post-war watches. This, in combination with the two minute tracks, adds a particularly nice old-school touch. Just as the black compliments the gold, the balance of the historical and contemporary makes this model truly a standout piece in the collection.
Fiftysix selfwinding: The movement
Given this is indeed the Fiftysix Self-winding collection, it only makes sense for us to round off with a look at the calibre 1326, visible via the caseback. The mainstay in-house movement has a 48-hour power reserve and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz. Naturally, finesse is also at the forefront of this mechanical movement, which flaunts Côtes de Genève finishing through the sapphire crystal caseback. Likewise, the calibre’s magnificent pink-gold oscillating weight is open-worked and adorned with a Maltese cross.
Strap, price and availability
For me, this new Fiftysix Self-winding watch could really be one for collectors. For one thing, it has a strong history – a quick search online will take you into intriguing previous sales of vintage Ref. 6073 models, from paperless beauties to well-documented full rose-gold editions with stunning Gay Freres bracelets gifted by Syrian Crown Princes. In addition, it has what I deem to be a very special design, not least due to the successful leap across from quieter colour schemes to a midnight black dial. Finally, it might just mark the moment that the rather quiet Fiftysix Self-winding starts to find its place in the sun. In any case, this isn’t a limited edition, but rather part of the main collection, and its price is 27,600 euros. Finally, the watch comes on a luxurious anthracite-coloured nubuck calfskin leather strap with calfskin lining and ecru stitching, which smartly secures to the wrist with a 18K 5N pink-gold pin buckle in the shape of a half-Maltese cross.
