With the new Tambour Opera Automata, Louis Vuitton plays on the theme of art imitating life and life imitating art. Drawing upon elements of Chinese culture and mythology, the watch presents the wearer with a Bian Lian performance. As part of Sichuan opera, Bian Lian is the art of face-changing, having been around for more than 300 years. What makes this art form so unique is that the performer switches between a variety of vibrantly coloured masks to express an array of emotions within the blink of an eye. Thus, the swapping of face masks assumes the sensations we experience throughout time – and Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Opera Automata brings this performance to life.
The case of the Tambour Opera Automata
Protecting the elaborate dial and the delicate movement, the case is made of 18-carat pink gold. The push-piece resembling an imperial dragon’s head with two rubies as eyes functions as a symbolic guard, as the creature represents power and virtue in Chinese mythology. Meanwhile, a push of the mighty dragon activates the automaton and sets the Bian Lian show into motion. In addition, the case has a rose-gold hand-carved crown with one ruby. The case measures 46.8 mm in diameter and possesses a thickness of 14.4 mm. The case is water-resistant to 30 m.
While a Sichuan opera performer captures the attention of the public with expressive moves and colourful masks, the Tambour Opera Automata draws all eyes onto it with its intricate dial, which is hand-painted by none other than famed enameler Anita Porchet. A black background with grey Louis Vuitton logos constitutes the stage for the timepiece’s very own Bian Lian performer.
Taking up almost half of the dial is a hand-painted red, black, and white enameled mask with a gold-iris eye on the left and stylised flower pistil as a pupil on the right. In Sichuan opera, different colours represent different emotions. Here, the red mask can symbolise courage, loyalty and sincerity. Although the mask is not replaced by another one as it would in a real-life performance, it is capable of showing different emotions ranging from happiness to sadness. This is thanks to the workings of the automaton. After the mechanism is activated, the left eyelid shuts, the right pupil turns into a monogram flower, and the Louis Vuitton emblemed chin moves up and down, showcasing different moods through a closed or open mouth.
Yet a Bian Lian performance would not work quite as well without the swift movement of a fan, which enhances the dramatic effect when revealing a new face and stands for wisdom. Therefore, a red-enamelled fan can be found nestled by the left side of the mask on the dial. Golden numerals on the fan, which also stands for wisdom and authority, represent the minutes in intervals of ten. The tail of a pink-gold dragon wraps itself around the ruby handle of the fan, while the rest of the dragon’s body elegantly winds around the mask, its head resting protectively on top of it.
Not only is this mythical creature a masterpiece engraved by famous Dick Steenmann: it also serves as an example of the finest watchmaking craftsmanship. As with the award-winning Tambour Carpe Diem Automata, time is only displayed on the dial through the activation of the automaton. The tail of the dragon operates as a retrograde minute hand, moving from 0 to 60 minutes on the fan before jumping back again and starting anew. Meanwhile, a swaying motion of the dragon’s head reveals the hour. Instead of presenting the hour through a hand, a jumping hour complication is used to display time through a moving disc. One exception is made with regard to the numerals, as the number 4 is perceived as unlucky in Chinese culture. Therefore, a typical Louis Vuitton blossom is placed in its position instead.
Other symbols of luck can be found above the fan and next to the mask: pink-gold clouds and a bottle gourd plant. While the former signifies good luck, the latter serves as defence against evil spirits (or in this case, as a disguised power reserve and defence against running out of time).
The movement
How Bian Lian performers manage to change the masks so fast that even cameras cannot capture the exact workings of the trick remains a well-guarded national secret. Equally shrouded in mystery are the complexities of the patented movement developed by Michel Naval and Enrico Barbasini at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, over the course of two years. What can be revealed about the mechanical movement is that the Tambour Opera Automata’s calibre LV 525 with manual winding consists of no less than 426 components, along with 50 jewels.
As indicated in the model’s name, the movement also contains an automaton mechanism that sets the opera performance into motion. Rich in its history, this kind of mechanism has existed since Renaissance times and can fulfil a task on its own. For instance, singing, drawing or, in the case of church bells, striking the hour in form of a male figure that hits the church bell with a hammer (a jacquemart). Thus, an automaton can be described as a machine or even a predecessor of today’s more complex robots as it acts fairly independently, aside from having to be activated.
In terms of the Tambour Opera Automata, the wearer can witness the dial come to life after pressing on the push-piece. For precisely 16-seconds, the automaton presents five animations that let the mask change its expressions, the pink-gold dragon’s head rise, and finally designate the time through jumping hours and retrograde minutes.
Last but not least, the power reserve of the calibre LV 525 keeps the watch running for 100 hours, while the amount of power remaining is indicated by the calabash plant on the dial. The movement has a frequency of 3 Hz.
The Top Time Classic Cars Capsule collection, launched in 2021, is now enjoying an update with the introduction of a new and improved "engine", the manufacture calibre 01. In addition, thanks to a renewed collaboration, Breitling is introducing a brand-new version of a chronograph in collaboration with Breitling and Ford, the Thunderbird edition. The Top…
Geneva based watchmaker Laurent Ferrier presents a new watch in his collection: the Sport Auto. A tribute piece to the founders car racing passion that goes back to the 1970s. On 9 June 1979, Laurent Ferrier and François Servanin participated at the iconic 24 Hours of Le Mans race in their Porsche 935 Turbo. After…
Zenith’s Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli brings together the brand’s deep-rooted watchmaking heritage and a celestial aesthetic. Founded in 1865 by Georges Favre-Jacot in Le Locle, Switzerland, Zenith built its reputation on precision and innovation—most notably with the 1969 launch of the El Primero automatic chronograph. Today’s Chronomaster collection carries forward that legacy, blending…
Zenith's partner USM is the family-owned company Ulrich Schärer Munsingen, named after its founder and place of origin. It established itself through the famous and still successful USM Haller modular furniture system in 1965, designed by architect Fritz Haller. Just four years later, Zenith launched the legendary high-frequency chronograph calibre El Primero. Two stunning design…
Louis Vuitton continues its journey of unrivaled collaborations with independent watchmakers – after the first collaboration with Akrivia in 2023 – by introducing the second creation in its series with Master Watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. Marking a historic union that began in 2002 alongside Louis Vuitton’s groundbreaking Tambour and Voutilainen’s establishment in Saint-Sulpice, Switzerland, the limited…
Patek Philippe is celebrating artisanship in watchmaking with its Rare Handcrafts exhibition. The horology house is showcasing more than 75 pocket watches, wristwatches, dome pendulums and table clocks at its headquarters in Geneva between the 16th and 26th of June. The focus is on hand engravings, enamel, guilloché, wood marquetry, gem-setting and their combination. To…
September is coming up and the first autumn highlights are about to be released. One of them is the cooperation between the online magazine Monochrome and watch manufacture Armin Strom. Together they are ringing in the next season with the Armin Strom x Monochrome Montre de Souscription 3 Gravity Equal Force Maillechort. The monochrome timepiece with…
About 220 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet received the patent for his invention of the tourbillon. To mark the occasion, the Manufacture presents the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365, a watch that focuses on this achievement and pays homage to the brand's history with elaborate decorations. In keeping with the total of only 35 tourbillon…
With the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante, the Glashütte manufacture is presenting a new split-seconds chronograph with a platinum case. It proudly bears the traditional design features of the 1815 collection, but surprises with an atypical placement of the subdials. The 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold "Homage to F. A. Lange" was introduced earlier, but it…
There is little doubt that Glashütte Original operates firmly in the here and now. Equally indisputable, however, is its bond with the past. Now part of the Swatch Group, the brand traces its roots back to 1845 and the former Glashütter Uhrenbetrieb. As a modern traditionalist, Glashütte Original has mastered the delicate art of uniting…
While the Roman Empire created a buzz as a viral trend on social media platforms last year, it has long been central to Bulgari. One of the Italian maison’s most iconic models is the Bulgari Roma, released in 1975 and now known as Bulgari Bulgari. Inspired by inscriptions on ancient Roman coins, Roman letters make up the double…
After one year out of action, Rafael Nadal recently announced his return to professional tennis for the Australian Open in Brisbane. So, it seemed rather fitting that Richard Mille produce him a new watch and drop us fans an early Christmas present. That is, of course, the new RM 35-03 Automatic Rafael Nadal. Up until…
At this year's Watches & Wonders 2020, Swiss watchmaker Roger Dubuis introduces a brand new Excalibur watch – the Excalibur Diabolus in Machina. Unusually, the 45 mm watch's case and caseback are made with the alloy CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM. Meanwhile, the skeletonised timepiece's functions include a minute repeater and a single flying tourbillon. The…