Placing All Bets on Black. But Also on Red – The Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88
Montblanc is a brand with a great tradition. So is its Minerva manufacture, the maker of historic and once extremely sought-after monopusher chronographs. Ever since Minerva became part of Montblanc, new monopusher watches have become amongst the most stylistic, defining, and successful models of the house. The latest reference is also very much in line with this tradition; the Montblanc 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88. The novel piece puts all bets on black and red at the same time, making it anything but a watch for fortune hunters.
The aesthetic: A pilot’s watch for the owners of a bespoke suit
The model, which is limited to just 88 pieces, is likely to have an appeal beyond collectors of the brand. It has a classic design at first glance and commits to the watchmaker’s aforementioned traditions, yet to dismiss the watch under the umbrella terms ‘retro’ or ‘vintage’ would not do it justice. Rather, the design makes this watch appear enduringly modern and pleasantly confident in its bearing. Another refreshing decision by Montblanc was to dispense with the on-trend green colour in favour of a black dial combined with a black leather strap. The strap’s contrasting cream-coloured stitching gives the model an appearance that makes it look extremely elegant, yet also cool and casual. As a result, the pilot’s watch suits a bomber jacket just as well as a tailored suit. It’s a watch for officers and gentlemen, so to speak.
The inspiration: Minerva’s models for fighter pilots & gentlemen
The inspiration for the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88 stems from a Minerva chronograph created back in 1939. In the years before then, the manufacture had developed into one of the leading manufacturers for pilot’s watches, as Minerva constructed watches fit for the cockpit, as well as for smart officers donning their dashing uniform.
Reliable timepieces were of the utmost importance for military pilots during that time. The most important factors included readability and the ability to operate the watch with ease. Principally, the chronograph and countdown functions needed to be easy to use even with gloves. To facilitate the latter, manufacturers like Minerva incorporated fluted bezels.
These characteristics – as well as numerous other functional elements – can be found in the new 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88. The bezel attached to the 42 mm case, for example, can be rotated in both directions. What’s more, depending on how the red arrow is aligned with the aid of the bezel, the wearer can read the elapsed time or a countdown can be set up, elapsing as soon as the minute hand reaches the arrow mark.
All of these pragmatic functions are spurred into action by the pusher that sits at two o’clock. The fact that the arrow is in bright red is a nod to Minerva, the Roman goddess of craftsmanship who always carried a spear with her. Furthermore, the stand-out colour naturally increases readability. Last but not least, the splash of colour is simply very nice to look at, especially in this colour combination. A. Lange & Söhne did a similar thing with the white-gold Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with a black dial, while the new titanium Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe with a grey dial also uses a red accent for the seconds hand.
Not the first of its kind – but perhaps the most beautiful: The story of Minerva, Montblanc, and the Monopusher
When it comes to the stainless-steel Montblanc Minerva watch, the combination of a deep black dial, white telemeter and tachymeter scales, Arabic numerals in beige Super-LumiNova coating, and red Minerva arrow is extremely successful. It could well be argued that this is the most beautiful monopusher chronograph to emerge from Montblanc’s recent history. In 2014, Montblanc already enjoyed great success with its pink-gold Heritage Spirit Pulsograph, limited to 90 pieces, with a white-silver dial. It was exactly the same in 2019 and 2020 with the Heritage Pulsograph, each limited to 100 pieces. Both were technically identical, using the hand-wound MR M13.21 calibre with a column wheel mechanism. With a diameter of 40 mm, the Heritage Pulsograph was somewhat more delicate, yet the choice of dial colours and metals were much more fashionable: first came a steel case accompanied by a salmon-coloured dial, then a rose-gold case plus a brown dial. The truly aesthetically impressive feature, however, was the calibre itself. This is also the case with the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Red Arrow LE88’s movement, which can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Also, the sibling monopusher chronographs, that are powered by the automatic movement MB 25.12, a modified version of the Sellita calibre SW510 became a favourite among Montblanc aficionados – whether housed in the steel and a salmon-coloured edition or in a bronze case with a black dial. Unlike the Pulsograph or the watch we are discussing here, the monopusher function on this watch was integrated into the crown. With prices in the mid four-digit range, they were far, far less expensive than limited horological showstoppers like the Red Arrow LE88 monopusher, which has retail price of 32,000 euros.
The Verdict: A sign of things to come
Beyond colour combinations and different calibres, there is one more thing that stands out about the latest monopusher model. Although Montblanc does not refer to the historical models for this watch, it does assign the timepiece to the Heritage collection and even notes this on the dial, printing the name of the calibre there – as was the norm in the past. This may seem like an inconsequential reference at first glance, but it speaks for a self-confidence that has strengthened at the manufacture over the past few years. The reference to the past, including the great past of Minerva and its association with high quality watchmaking, is thus a tad less ubiquitous and striking, and the fact that decent calibres are used goes without saying. This also makes the Red Arrow particularly strong and timeless; a watch for the here and now, for hedonists who live in the moment yet appreciate the past nonetheless. After all, Montblanc no longer has anything or anyone to prove. This Red Arrow Limited Edition is thus almost typical of this well-deserved self-image: you place your bets on black. AND at the same time on red. Thus losing is almost impossible.
When luxury steel sports watches with integrated bracelets suddenly appeared in the 1970s, it was not only Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe that caused a stir with their Royal Oak and Nautilus creations. Vacheron Constantin was also quick to recognize the trend – despite it not even being perceived as such at the time, but rather dismissed as outrageous…
Amongst other things, Bulgari specialises in ultra-thin watches. With the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon, the brand has now set its tenth world record in this field in the last eleven years: the thinnest mechanical watch with a tourbillon. Heralding its first appearance at Watches and Wonders 2025, Bulgari is presenting this extraordinary watch, which is…
Vacheron Constantin stages eternity – and a tourbillon – for its anniversary For 270 years, Vacheron Constantin has been striving to capture time with measuring instruments that are as technically as they are aesthetically sophisticated. This is reflected in the anniversary creations such as the three models of the Traditionnelle Open Face Anniversary Edition. Of course, the…
At first glance, the Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier looks like your archetypal Swiss watchmaking manufacture. Bright, modern white rooms play host to advanced machines, exquisite movement decorations are proudly displayed in all their glory, employees pose by solar panels citing sustainability pledges. Yet, beneath this spotless exterior lies a complex and highly sought-after entity within the…
Bulgari and disruptive innovation – do they go together? After speaking with Jonathan Brinbaum from Bulgari at Watches & Wonders 2025, I believe they absolutely do. Add a touch of dolce vita and Italian elegance, and the picture becomes complete. Founded in Rome in 1884 by Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari, the brand – now part…
In 2012, the young and independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi founded the brand “AkriviA”. When we first discovered him two years later, he was still mostly unknown in the watch industry. But at the latest since he won a prize for best men’s watch with his Chronomètre Contemporain at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2018, there…
This is not a story about every tiny technical detail of every Submariner reference. This is a story that tells the tale of one of most famous watches on the planet. Whether the wearer is a diver or data analyst, the Submariner holds the position of Rolex's best-loved line to this day. But why is…
The Dragon is the fifth of the 12-year cycle of animals appearing in the Chinese calendar’s zodiac. It’s an important one, too. The Year of the Dragon is largely seen as one of the most powerful, lucky years in the Chinese zodiac, symbolising strength, fortune and success. From Shanghai to London’s Chinatown, people around the world recently…
Those who know me know that I have another great passion besides mechanical watches; tennis. For me, there is no more perfect tennis player in my generation than Roger Federer, because his game is unrivalled in elegance. Rafael Nadal and Novak Djokovic, his two greatest opponents, are certainly just as remarkable in terms of sporting…
When we published our extensive story on the Piaget Polo almost exactly a year ago, we wondered what the future might hold for this classic watch. Would the horology house ever return to the original design, which differs so very significantly from the modern Polo? https://youtu.be/z-VoHHneJWA?si=LHeCaqr6zRcI1SD_ The article was published under the title 'The Evolution…
It all started with watches, of course. Some time ago, we spotted IWC’s special editions with a striking blue dial that are being launched on regular basis. Naturally, we wanted to know more about them. Since 2005, IWC has been supporting the programs of the ‘Laureus Sport for Good Foundation’ with an annual launch of…
At Watches & Wonders 2022, Swisswatches caught up with Piaget CEO Benjamin Comar to discuss all things Piaget – from ultra-thin watches to the gender-specific watch debate, to what he describes as his ‘COVID-19 babies’. During your childhood, it is likely that at some point you attended a funfair or circus. In doing so, you…
The twin-spired cathedral bells chime over the square by Cologne's main square. The warm scent of bakeries wafts across the space as commuters dash past, fixated upon catching their train from the adjacent central station. Locals sprawl themselves across the steps leading up to the Gothic cathedral, incidentally Germany's most visited landmark, while businessmen stride…