Baselworld 2019: The most important Patek Philippe Novelties
According to company documents, Thierry Stern, Patek Philippe president still today tests all minute repeaters himself before they leave the manufacture. And to Stern, it’s not work but pure passion and pleasure. Patek Philippe has gained a special reputation in this field, not least by showing their savoir-faire with the ‘Grandmaster Chime’ from 2014 with its five chiming mechanisms.
Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P-001
This year, the manufacture expands its pilot watch ‘Calatrava Travel Time’ with an alarm function that is based on a minute repeater. They developed an entirely new movement, the highly complex calibre AL 30-660 SC FUS made of 574 components. The typical two timezone-display remains unchanged and is still displayed by two superimposed hour hands from the dial’s centre. Two small round apertures at 3 and 9 o’clock indicate the day / night display. To be able to offer a movement height of just 6.6 mm, the engineers have designed an entirely new integrated movement instead of simply putting an additional module on top. Due to a sophisticated timezone-mechanism, the power reserve is not affected while the pusher’s function is being operated. The alarm is indicated by a digital display below 12 o’clock. For that, the brand’s logo had to be replaced inside the date subdial at 6 o’clock. The alarm signal is struck by a hammer on a classic gong – the tiny play can also be watched through the open case back. So, for Thierry Stern, it is not just music for his ears, but also a pleasure for his eyes. Price: 204.050 Euros and comes with a case in platinum.
The new Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P-001
Chronograph Ref. 5172G-001 in white gold
The price for reference 5170 might shoot up in the next couple of days. The reason: Patek Philippe will discontinue this popular Chronograph and replace it with the new reference 5172G. It houses the same movement but has been modified on the outside. And they seem to hold on to old values, however at the same time reach out to modern-sporty design features. The case – in white gold for the first time – has subtle vintage allure underscored by a sapphire-crystal ‘box’ glass and three-tier lugs. The protruding, round pushers, however, are the epitome of ultra-sporty Chronographs, but then again have a classic guilloche on the push side. The navy-blue dial and navy-blue calfskin leather strap have a fresh and modern touch. The contrasting syringe hands, however, make the watch look somehow old-fashioned. Inside runs the reliable column-wheel chronograph calibre CH29-535 PS, hand-wound with small second and a Gyromax balance. Price: 66.320 Euros and a little bit less expensive to its predecessor.
The new Chronograph Ref. 5172G-001 in white gold
Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A-014 in stainless steel
The watch that according to a commercial slogan ‘can be equally worn to a wet suit as well as to a dinner jacket’ gets its original colour from 1976. At least the reference 5726/1A with Annual Calendar and Moon-phase. We are talking about the Nautilus in stainless steel with its distinctive blue dial grading from blue to black at the dial’s periphery. Just as beautiful to watch is the horizontal embossing on the dial. The date window has been positioned at 6 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock, sharing the space with the moon-phase display. It has aesthetical reasons for Patek Philippe showing the perfect symmetry in this order (also seen at the Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G). The calibre 324 S QA LU 24H/303 is based on its predecessor model 5711/1A and extended by an Annual Calendar and Moon-phase. The rotor is made of 21-carat gold – and since Patek decided to open up its case back, you get a beautiful view onto the manual finissage of movement parts with Patek Philippe Seal. The new Nautilus 5726/1A-014 is slightly bigger with a 40,5 mm case – the bracelet size was adjusted accordingly. Price: 41.320 Euros.
Blue is back – Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A-014 in stainless steel
Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001 in stainless steel
Patek Philippe, also well known for their calendar functions, surprises this year with a new calendar feature. The new reference 5212A-001 has a useful weekly calendar with five hands emanating from the centre, indicating the different functions: seconds, minutes, hours, weekday and month. The hand indicating the month display also shows the week number by authentically reproduced handwritten characters printed onto the dial. The 53-graduation scale even considers years with an extra week, which occur every 5 to 6 years. The date is placed at 3 o’clock. To display the day of the week and the number of the current week, the manufacture developed a totally new semi-integrated mechanism, betted into a heavy stainless steel case. It is the first non-limited stainless steel version by Patek Philippe, and the first Calatrava steel watch ever. The new automatic movement 26-330 SCJ SE is based on the calibre 324 and was optimized all round. Price: 30.100 Euros.
Calatrava Weekly Calendar Ref. 5212A-001
Regulator Annual Calendar Ref. 5235/50R-001
Once again, back to Thierry Stern. When he had the idea for the brands very first regulator, he had a modern interpretation of the traditional regulator in mind. But no one in his team wanted it that way. He fought for it and finally in 2011 the Reference 5235 Annual Calendar Regulator was born, Maison’s first version in white gold with a silver-grey dial. This year, Thierry Stern and Patek Philippe present a roségold version ref. 5235/50R with a two-tone dial in graphite and ebony-black. The dial still has a beautiful vertical satin finish. The calibre 31-260 REG QA with self-winding mechanical movement was specially designed for this new model, incorporating a Pulsomat escapement and Spiromax balance spring in Silinvar – let’s say, a pretty modern Regulator. Price: 46.630 Euros.
A modern regulator – Regulator Annual Calendar Ref. 5235/50R-001
Aquanaut Ref. 5168G-010 in Khaki
On land and at sea. In 2017, Patek Philippe presented a striking blue version of its Aquanaut 5168G on occasion of its 20th anniversary. It is now joined by a khaki-green version for stylish shore leave. The anniversary version was upgraded by a white gold case, as well its sibling-watch ref. 5168G-010. Other than the very similar Aquanaut ref. 5167, the 5168G (G stands for white gold) in blue and khaki is a ‘jumbo’ watch and measures 42.2 mm in case diameter at a comfortable height of 8.25 mm. The self-winding mechanical movement remains the familiar calibre 324 SC. Price: 35.710 Euros.
While visiting the Breguet manufacture in Vallée de Joux some weeks ago, we certainly didn’t want to miss the movement assembly Atelier where the Maison’s tourbillon complications come alive. It was Abraham-Louis Breguet who invented this regulator over 200 years ago and the manufacture today is the world’s biggest producer. They have seven tourbillon families…
Popping pastels and vacation vibes; Breitling's new SuperOcean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise Capsule Collection for women actually stems from a 1950s diver's watch for men. Now, however, it has transformed into a high quality, incredibly fashionable new timepiece. With the introduction of this series, Breitling is proving itself to be truly with the times, not to…
The Wempe branch on Munich’s Weinstrasse has been an integral part of the city for half a century, and has been managed by Marc Autmaring since 2009. Over the past 14 years, the engaging and determined manager has succeeded in further developing the location, tapping into new target groups and promoting close cooperation with renowned…
It’s a topic that every OMEGA Speedmaster fan must have an opinion on – when it comes to protecting the dial, which is better: hesalite or sapphire crystal? In this article, we will be arguing the case for keeping it old-school, while also explaining why some choose the more contemporary, "luxurious" option of sapphire crystal.…
A few weeks back we mentioned the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo while introducing bronze watches at swisswatches. We now managed to get our hands on to a piece with very unique patina, which we found so thrilling that we dedicated it a little photo story. Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo The owner bought the Panerai…
It’s been another extraordinary year for us all, and the watch world is no exception. That is why the Swisswatches team sat down once more to comprise a list of our top watches of 2022. From anniversary models to world records, we are presenting you 24 special highlights to emerge from the ever-surprising Swiss watch…
For over 20 years, the collection ‘Historique’ by Vacheron Constantin is regularly extended by historically relevant watches of the Maison, models like the Cornes de Vache from 1955, the American from 1921 or the Fine from 1955. Since a crucial horological passion of founder Jean-Marc Vacheron has been in the technical making of calendar watches, it was about time in 2017…
The Navitimer from Breitling is turning 70! Originally conceived as a tool watch with which pilots could still perform flight calculations using a completely analogue system, it has advanced over the years and, since its time on the wrists of jazz great Miles Davis, filmmaker enfant terrible Serge Gainsbourg or racing legends Jim Clark and…
Every watch manufacture has one or more iconic models that have enjoyed great popularity for years. For Piaget, the Polo watch line is one of them. Since its launch in 1979 as the brand's first sports watch, it has established itself as the Maison's best-selling collection. Thanks to the Polo, the watch manufacture has already…
Some watches simply command respect. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is one such watch. The horology house's Reverso model is always sleek, suave, and attractive. This unconventional piece, however, takes high watchmaking to a whole new level. Area of expertise: The Reverso and complications Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to creating complicated Reverso watches. The first…
The modern-day Breitling chronograph dates back to 1983, when it was first conceived for the aerobatic squadron of the Italian Air Force, "Frecce Tricolori". One year later, upon the 100 year anniversary of Breitling, the Chronomat was produced as a series for the first time, in the form of the Ref. 81950. It was distinguished…
Why do mechanical timepieces captivate so many people? The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2024, a particularly exclusive collection of unique wristwatches, pocket watches and table clocks, undoubtedly answers this question. The boundary-pushing line is undoubtedly at the forefront of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Each incredibly high-quality timepiece embodies all that makes watches so exciting: craftsmanship…
The moment you think that the inventiveness of the currently most hyped brand must be exhausted for the year at some point, the makers from Le Brassus have topped it all with something unexpected. Hasn’t the thirst from all Royal Oak fans for new watches been satisfied enough during the course of the year? Royal…