Richard Mille RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley: The Symbolism of the Smiley
Everyone carries the desire to create connections with others and spread happiness. With this in mind, what could be more symbolic than the smiley? Little more than 50 years ago, a yellow circle, with two oval eyes and a broad, smiling mouth, established itself as a collective symbol of positivity and pop culture. Today, it is impossible to imagine our society without the smiley, drawn by Franklin Loufrani: it is a symbol of interaction.
Following three years of development by the Richard Mille team, the new RM 88Automatic Tourbillon Smiley combines the iconic smiley with a series of miniature sculptures. The result is a highly technological and creative timepiece. As a limited edition of 50 pieces, this emotionally charged watch is specially designed for lovers of watchmaking who simply want to spread joy.
The new Richard Mille RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley
Smiling: A universal language
Drawn 50 years ago by Franklin Loufrani and first appearing in the pages of the French newspaper France Soir in 1972, the smiley is still a sign of happiness today. The smiley symbol is universal: a smile, recognisable anywhere in the world. One of the first recorded smiles in history dates back to 2,400 BC, appearing on the statue of a governor of Mesopotamia (now Western Asia). The meaning and visualisation of the smile have changed significantly over the centuries and civilizations. The smiles on the sculptures of the Egyptian pharaohs, for example, are only faintly pronounced. This testifies to restraint and self-control – values regarded as particularly respectable at the time.
Meanwhile, the emotional smile on the statues of Buddha symbolises happiness, prosperity and joy. By contrast, the smile appears very discreetly in Leonardo da Vinci’s famous Renaissance portrait, the Mona Lisa. At that time, showing one’s emotions was still considered inappropriate and unseemly. The smile finally became the norm through the works of Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun, a painter at the French court, in the Age of Enlightenment. In her works, the painter shows a blunt, broad smile.
As a genuine source of well-being, our smile today can have a multifaceted meaning. It is a gesture that can expresses joy or sincerity; it can be innocent and or disarming. This symbolism comes to life in the form of the RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley.
Engraver Olivier Kuhn is largely responsible for the RM 88‘s playful design elements. Kuhn, who originally trained in customising motorcycles, combines haute horlogerie, 3D design and jewellery making. He has been creating miniatures for eight years, as well as the gold micro-sculptures in the RM 88 – each of which weighs less than one gram.
Furthermore, Kuhn was involved in the creation of the micro-sculptures, from their 3D design and manufacture to their final installation in the watch, thus ensuring that the watch also embodies Kuhn’s artistic style. The manufacturing process of the sculptures combines time-honored watchmaking skills with modern-day technology. First, resin is printed using a 3D printer. Then, plaster is applied around it, before it is melted and replaced with gold. Finally, the gold is then moulded with special watchmaking tweezers.
The process can achieve refinement even in the smallest details. However, the biggest challenge for Kuhn, and therefore the most complex part, was the combination of the cloud and rainbow. This is because the different fibres have to be connected, requiring 25 hours of work per piece.
While the bezel and caseback are made of white ATZ ceramic, which is known for its high scratch resistance, the case ring is in red gold, serving as a harmonious combination. Meanwhile, the domed bezel and satin finish are achieved through an elaborate process using with diamond tools. The eye-catching crown bears the recurring smiley on its head, adding another colourful, playful accent.
The surreal scene on the dial, which looks straight out of some kind of emoji world, bursts from a colourful rainbow and ends in the cloud. On top of this is a small second hand with a lightning bolt and a sun on its tips. This changes the weather conditions with every minute. Furthermore, the wearer can admire a blooming flower, a dark green cactus, a golden sun and a cheerful pink flamingo.
The three-dimensional effect of this work of art is topped off by a cocktail with an umbrella. Meanwhile, the smiley itself is mounted on a decorative bridge, creating a floating impression. The movement bridge, to which the smiley is attached, has taken the form and colours of a rainbow, creating the perfect background for the entire spectacle. A function indicator at 3 o’clock shows the positions for winding (W) and hand setting (H) when the crown is pulled out.
Another major challenge was the conception of a movement that would leave enough room to optimally accentuate the scenery without stealing the show from the protagonist. With this in mind, the CRMT7, a skeletonised tourbillon calibre, was developed. The automatic movement with hour, minute and function display operates at 4 Hz and has a power reserve of 50 hours.
The RM 88 is equipped with two base plates: one technical, on which the movement is mounted, and the second, which is intended for ornamental objects. This creates the three-dimensional space, but at the same time remains resilient. The rotor made of 3N yellow gold with OneWay winding system and ceramic ball bearings still allows for a phenomenal view through to the dial via the caseback.
The RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley is a vibrant creation that is sure to bring a smile not only to the wearer, but also to those who catch sight of it. Limited to 50 pieces, the timepiece comes with a yellow Velcro strap. Interested parties can apply for this timepiece at Richard Mille boutiques and, if accepted, purchase the watch for CHF 1.1 million.
Team Luna Rossa, winner of the Prada Cup during the most recent contestfor America’s Cup, is among the top sailing clubs in the world. Now, the long-standing partner of Panerai is uniting with its Italian amici once again to introduce an all-new Luminor Luna Rossa timepiece: the PAM01342. Coinciding with the beginning of the race…
The Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer is a dress watch limited to 50 pieces that puts the historical relic of the officer-type case cover in the spotlight. Indeed, the watch has a hinged back that reveals the mechanics at the push of a button. True to the old school, the watchmakers not only decorate the…
On the SIHH 2019 the Geneva luxury watch brand Vacheron Constantin launched three models, which are part of the newly interpreted 'Patrimony collection'. The design of the models is as gentle as the one of the first models of the line from the 1950s. Especially lovers of minimalism should be convinced. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Majestic Blue…
Breguet is introducing a new Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097, this time with a blue dial. The wristwatch takes its inspiration from Abraham-Louis Breguet's subscription watches from the late 18th century, and also evokes Breguet's one-hand pocket watches of the time. The new edition, as with all Tradition models, showcases the calibre's components via the…
Over the centuries, many timepieces have been created for queens and kings. Now, it appears that Swiss horology house Norqain is taking things a step further, by creating a watch that pays homage to the King of the Savannah: the lion. The Wild One 42mm Hakuna Mipaka Limited Edition takes inspiration from the famed lion…
In 2017, Breguet gave a new face to its Marine line through a revamped aesthetic style, combining a sense of modernity and dynamism: an original bracelet lug, reworked fluting, as well as a crown surrounded by a wave decor and adorned with a wider “B.” Breguet Marine 5517 in rose gold with leather strap Ref.…
With the Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148, Montblanc presents two new timepieces that draw on the rich past of the Minerva watch manufacture. With them, the new Montblanc manufacture calibre MB M14.08, inspired by a historic Minerva calibre, makes its debut. It was constructed according to the proportions of the golden ratio and…
Back in January at the LMVH Watch Week in Dubai, watchmaker Zenith, which was founded back in 1865, introduced several exciting novelties into its DEFY collection. One special new piece of this collection is likely to have particularly excited fans of electro and techno music: the DEFY 21 Carl Cox Edition. It was created in…
The new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar white ceramic offers a slim case which nonetheless houses a complete perpetual calendar. The 41 mm case is made of white ceramic. Furthermore, the watch is equipped with non-reflective sapphire crystal on the front and back. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar White Ceramic Ref. 26579CB.OO.1225CB.01…
Rolex updates the Explorer line and presents the all-new Rolex Explorer with a 36 mm case made of stainless steel and yellow gold. In addition, the house also presents a variant that is made entirely of stainless steel and also measures 36 mm. Both models use the modern calibre 3230 with Chronergy escapement and 70-hour…
In 2022, Parmigiani Fleurier introduced the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, a GMT watch featuring a rattrapante mechanism that allows the local time to be adjusted with a single press. Now, to mark Watches and Wonders 2025, the brand is launching a new version: the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante Verzasca. Its Verzasca Green dial is inspired…
Breguet presents the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 in a new version with a blue dial. This watch features a completely independent chronograph mechanism, a unique design with dual balance wheels, and a patented blade spring system. Let’s take a closer look at this watch and its features. Case The case of the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant…
Audemars Piguet is presenting the Royal Oak Offshore Automatic Music Edition consisting of five new Royal Oak Offshore models dedicated entirely to the world of music. The Tapisserie dials are emblazoned with a colourful equaliser motif, and the cases also feature a number of allusions to audio technology. In addition to two titanium variants, there…