Originally launched in the early 1960s to give the chronograph complication a fresh and modern aesthetic, the Breitling Top Time disappeared from the brand’s portfolio for decades in the wake of the Quartz Crisis – and faded largely into obscurity. It was only with the leadership change to Georges Kern and a comprehensive repositioning of the brand that the collection returned – not merely as a nostalgic reissue, but as a platform for collaborations and special editions. In this article, we trace the evolution of a chronograph that today stands as a hallmark of the Breitling era under Georges Kern – from its origins and re-editions to the many special models that have revitalised the line since 2020.
The Top Time was conceived during a period in which Willy Breitling, grandson of the brand’s founder Léon Breitling, sought to develop a new chronograph following the success of the Navitimer. His aim was to reposition the classic tool watch – transforming it into a modern complication that would appeal above all to a younger audience. To achieve this, Breitling began designing a model in 1962 that deliberately broke with the traditional design codes of the brand’s existing range. Just two years later, in 1964, the Top Time collection was unveiled – a fresh and affordable interpretation of the chronograph, launched in multiple versions: including a sporty stainless steel model, a more luxurious solid gold version, and a stylish gold-plated variant.
In the years that followed, the Top Time adopted square cases, graced the pages of magazines such as Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, and even made its way to the big screen on the wrist of James Bond, played by Sean Connery, in Thunderball (1965). This heavily modified Top Time Ref. 2002 with black dial and white sub-dials is not only the only Breitling ever worn by 007, but also one of the most valuable vintage Breitlings ever sold, fetching an impressive £100,000 at Christie’s.
Credit © Christie’s
But the 1970s marked the onset of the devastating Quartz Crisis – affordable quartz watches from Japan flooded the market, and the price paid is well known: many traditional mechanical watchmakers went out of business as demand dwindled, and employment within the industry plummeted. Breitling was not spared from these developments. Willy Breitling, also facing health issues, stepped down – and with him, production of the Top Time ceased.
The reins of the now-bankrupt company were taken up by electrical engineer, pilot, and entrepreneur Ernest Schneider, who resumed Breitling’s operations in 1982 after a production hiatus, this time with a renewed focus on the brand’s aviation heritage – a concept that left no room for the Top Time and its automotive design legacy of the 1960s. The model once again faded into obscurity for several decades.
However, this changed when Ernest and his son Teddy Schneider – who had succeeded him as CEO in 1994 – sold 80 percent of Breitling to the British investment group CVC Capital Partners in 2017. With Georges Kern, former CEO of IWC, assuming leadership, a new chapter began. Kern made it his mission to bring greater diversity to Breitling’s portfolio and to launch timepieces that reflect the brand’s rich heritage.
Fully aware of the model’s origins and the demand it once enjoyed, Georges Kern resurrected the Top Time in March 2020, after decades of dormancy. It was relaunched as a limited re-edition – at a time when the mechanical watch industry was in the firm grip of the emerging coronavirus pandemic.
Limited to just 2,000 pieces, this watch was a reinterpretation of a classic 1960s design, featuring the so-called “Zorro” dial. This design, inspired by the masked vigilante, consisted of two white sub-dials – a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock with red accents – framed by black segments reminiscent of Zorro’s mask. The dial was housed in a 41-mm case fitted with the Breitling Calibre 23, an automatic movement based on the ETA 7753, offering a power reserve of 48 hours.
In 2021, Breitling subjected the Top Time to its most comprehensive redesign to date. Moving away from its heritage-inspired aesthetic, the new generation adopted a more classically modern approach. The dials featured a fresh two-level architecture, distinguished by contrasting central tones and recessed, chamfered sub-dials with a circular azurage finish. Since then, the Top Time has evolved from a historical homage into a creative playground – a space where Breitling indulges its passion for reinventing the concept through a wide range of special editions in collaboration with diverse partners.
The first of these new-era Top Time collaborations was introduced in February 2021: the Top Time Deus Ref. A233101A1A1X1, developed in partnership with the Australian lifestyle brand Deus ex Machina. Limited to 1,500 pieces, the watch paid tribute to Breitling designs of the 1960s and came in a 41-mm stainless steel case, fitted with a brown calfskin leather strap. Its dial was accented with bold yellow and orange details. Notable features included a lightning bolt-shaped chronograph seconds hand and the Deus motto “In benzin veritas” inscribed on the dial. The caseback was engraved with a retro-style motorcyclist motif. Like its predecessor, the watch was powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Calibre 23.
Later that same year, just six months on, Breitling followed up with the Top Time Classic Cars Capsule Collection – a trio of chronographs whose dial colours paid tribute to the liveries of iconic 1960s sports cars: the Ford Mustang, the Chevrolet Corvette, and the Shelby Cobra.
The green Top Time Ford Mustang (Ref. A253101A1L1X1) took inspiration from the model produced by Ford between 1964 and 1973 – a car that earned widespread popularity thanks to its compact dimensions and affordable price point. The second Top Time (Ref. A25310241K1X1) referenced the red paintwork of the Chevrolet Corvette, introduced in 1962 and produced until 1967 – a model affectionately known among enthusiasts as the “Stingray.” Both models shared not only their automotive inspiration and vibrant colour schemes, but also technical features: a 42-mm case, contrasting black sub-dials, and the Breitling Calibre 25 – an automatic movement based on the ETA 2892, offering a 42-hour power reserve.
The third model in the line-up, however, took a slightly different approach: the Top Time Shelby Cobra (Ref. A41315A71C1X1), inspired by the eponymous classic car launched in 1962. With a marginally smaller 40-mm case, a 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock (replacing the 15-minute counter of the other models), and no 6-hour counter at 12 o’clock, it broke away from the design formula of its companions. Inside, it housed a modified Breitling Calibre 41, also based on the ETA 2892.
In February 2022, Breitling introduced a special edition that drew inspiration from two sources: the Triumph Thunderbird 6T motorbike from 1951 – a cult favourite among collectors – and the ice-blue dial of the Breitling Top Time Long Playing Ref. 815 from 1972. The Top Time Triumph combined these historical cues within its dial design, which featured recessed black sub-dials set within softly shaded segments in the familiar “Zorro” layout. The ice-blue dial was complemented by a black tachymeter scale and baton hour markers, resulting in a balanced and striking aesthetic. Further details included a vintage-style Breitling logo and the Triumph emblem positioned at 6 o’clock.
One particularly distinctive element of this edition was the simultaneous launch of a co-branded motorbike developed in partnership with Triumph Motorcycles. The Triumph Speed Twin Breitling Limited Edition, featuring a matching “Polychromatic Blue” paint job, was produced alongside the watch. Both the motorcycle and the timepiece were strictly limited to 270 individually numbered pieces – with the watch available exclusively to owners of the bike. The limited Top Time Triumph was powered by the Breitling Calibre 23 – an automatic movement based on the ETA Valjoux 7753 with a 48-hour power reserve. Owing to the elegance and popularity of the design, the Top Time Triumph was subsequently integrated into the regular Top Time collection, where it is now offered with Breitling’s in-house B01 calibre.
At the end of 2022, Breitling once again drew from the rich heritage of motorsport to release a new Top Time Deus edition in sky blue. The design was again shaped by the brand’s collaboration with Deus Ex Machina – the Australian lifestyle brand and custom motorbike workshop – as well as the spirit of the so-called “Café Racers”: lightweight bikes that gave rise to a fiercely individualistic subculture in the 1960s. To translate this inspiration to the dial, Breitling introduced a white central section along with sub-dials for seconds and minutes, surrounded by a vibrant sky-blue tachymeter scale. A bold red-orange accent between 2 and 3 o’clock added a flash of colour, echoed by the lightning bolt-shaped chronograph seconds hand. The watch was housed in a 41-mm stainless steel case, fitted with the Breitling Calibre 23 – an automatic movement based on the ETA 7753. On the caseback, a large engraving of a motorbike and the inscription “One of 2000” confirmed the model’s limited-edition status.
In 2023, the Top Time Classic Cars collection welcomed four new additions and, with them, a major technical milestone: the introduction of the B01 movement. First launched by Breitling in 2009, this in-house calibre features a column-wheel mechanism, an extended 70-hour power reserve, and COSC chronometer certification – replacing the previously used ETA and Sellita-based movements in the Top Time series.
Visually, the new collection remained faithful to the established design language of the 2021 models but introduced a fourth edition: the Ford Thunderbird. This model took inspiration from the iconic American sports car, produced between 1955 and 1997 and again from 2002 to 2005. The dial featured a predominantly white layout with a petrol-green “T-Bird” emblem prominently displayed.
Towards the end of 2023, Breitling unveiled three new Top Time models that stood out for several reasons. Most notably, they were the first timepieces from the brand to be equipped with the in-house Calibre B21 – a movement developed in partnership with the complications specialists at La Joux-Perret. In addition to a 55-hour power reserve, this calibre offered the rare combination of a chronograph and a tourbillon.
The models also featured case materials that had previously played only a minor role in Breitling’s line-up. The Top Time B21 Chevrolet Corvette and the Top Time B21 Shelby Cobra were both presented in 44-mm black ceramic cases, paired with titanium casebacks, crowns, and chronograph pushers. The Chevrolet Corvette model featured a wooden dial – a nod to the wooden steering wheel of the original car – while the Cobra version came with a deep blue dial reminiscent of the Shelby’s historic paintwork.
The third model in the line-up, the Top Time B21 Ford Mustang, featured a slightly more compact 43-mm case crafted from bronze, also paired with titanium components for the caseback, crown, and pushers. Its green dial paid tribute to the original Ford Mustang livery from the car’s first generation, produced until 1974.
Just one week after introducing the new Top Time three-hand models powered by the B31 calibre, Breitling released a trio of Top Time B01 Racing models, each featuring a bicompax dial layout. Two of the versions come with a black dial and contrasting white dashboard-style centre (Ref. AB01771A1B1X1), while another features a green dial (Ref. AB01771A1L1X1). The third version (Ref. AB01772A1G1X1) stands out due to its colour scheme, which references the Martini Racing Team – known for its association with various race cars since the late 1950s, including the Porsche 917 that won the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1971 and the 911 Carrera RSR that won the Targa Florio in 1973, a historic endurance race held on public roads in the Sicilian mountains. The dark blue, red and light blue accents are also reflected in the dial components.
The case is 38 mm in diameter and differs from previous Top Time models through its cushion-shaped design and faceted corners with a brushed surface finish. Inside is Breitling’s in-house B01 calibre, operating at 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) with a power reserve of 70 hours. In line with the retro-influenced design, Breitling opted for a closed caseback, leaving the movement hidden from view. Each of the three Top Time B01 Racing editions is limited to 750 pieces.
In April 2025, Breitling released two limited edition watches referencing the rivalry between Italian cyclists and Breitling brand ambassadors Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali, whose competitions were most prominent during the 1940s and 1950s. The Top Time B01 Fausto Coppi (Ref. AB01768A1A1X1) features a white dial with turquoise sub-dials, and an orange lightning-shaped seconds hand that matches the colour of Coppi’s bicycle. The Top Time B01 Gino Bartali (Ref. AB01767A1C1X1) comes with a blue dial and yellow accents, drawing from the jersey worn by the two-time Tour de France winner.
Each model’s tachymeter scale bears the athlete’s nickname: “Il Campionissimo” (Champion of Champions) for Coppi and “L’Intramontabile” (The Timeless One) for Bartali. Their signatures appear at 6 o’clock. Both watches have 41 mm cases, are powered by the in-house Calibre B01 with an approximate 70-hour power reserve, and are limited to 750 units each.
When Breitling announced last year that it would become the official timekeeper of FC Bayern Munich, the question arose as to how this partnership would be reflected in a watch. The answer comes in the form of the Breitling Top Time B01 125 Years FC Bayern Munich Limited Edition (Ref. AB01769A1G1X1), released to mark the club’s 125th anniversary. The watch incorporates a range of FC Bayern references, extending from the dial and movement to the strap.
The majority of the visual cues can be found on the silver dial, which features a combination of brushed and matte finishes arranged in a diamond pattern that echoes the club’s crest – itself derived from the blue-and-white lozenges of the Bavarian flag. Additional details include sub-dials at 9 and 3 o’clock for small seconds and chronograph minutes, both rendered in burgundy red, as is the outer tachymeter scale. The chronograph seconds hand is finished in the distinctive red tone associated with the club’s logo, while the area above 6 o’clock displays the FC Bayern Munich name and official anniversary emblem.
The stainless steel case measures 41 mm in diameter and 13.3 mm in height, with a water resistance of 10 bar (100 metres). Vintage-style pump pushers were used to underline the watch’s retro styling. The sapphire caseback reveals the in-house B01 calibre, which features the official 125th anniversary logo of the club. The COSC-certified movement offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours and beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
The Breitling Top Time FC Bayern Munich special edition is limited to 125 pieces in reference to the anniversary year. It is available exclusively at Breitling boutiques in Munich, Berlin (Kurfürstendamm and Mitte), and Düsseldorf. Upon request, it may also be obtained from other Breitling boutiques in Germany and selected retail partners in Munich. The retail price is €7,250.
