With the SP One, MB&F ventures into uncharted territory. Instead of their usual futuristic and radical forms, the manufacture’s latest creation prioritises classical elegance for the very first time. This timepiece not only heralds the launch of a new model line called Special Projects, but also begs the question of what “special” truly means for MB&F – and how much change is compatible with the DNA of such an unusual watch brand. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at this novelty and attempt to answer that very question.
Since its inception in 2005 by Max Büsser, MB&F has presented timepieces deeply rooted in childhood fantasies, aviation, science fiction, and even the animal kingdom. The brand revolves around two creative pillars: the Horological Machines collection, established in 2007, and the Legacy Machines collection, launched in 2011. These two lines represent distinct concepts. While the Horological Machines combine three-dimensional cases to create futuristic timepieces, the Legacy Machines pay homage to 19th-century watchmaking artistry through their round cases. Between the resulting timepieces – such as the HM N°9, inspired by a jet engine, and perhaps their most complex chronograph, the LM Sequential EVO – MB&F forged a brand renowned for its inventive yet radical expression of independent watchmaking.
Now, with the MB&F SP One, the brand introduces a third watch category alongside the existing Horological and Legacy Machines. This new line breathes new life into unfinished ideas from the past two decades of the company’s history: the Special Projects. According to MB&F, the timepieces within the Special Projects will position themselves somewhere between the aesthetic worlds of the Legacy and Horological Machines, transforming dormant concepts into sophisticated watches and, true to their name, proving exceptionally “special”.
However, the SP One, which kicks off this collection, presents itself with surprising restraint. This makes it initially appear quite different from what one might expect from a “Special Project” premiere. While still unmistakably an MB&F, the SP One’s classically elegant overall package leaves little of the unconventional, almost futuristic aesthetic of earlier MB&F timepieces.
This is primarily due to the fact that the SP One, first sketched in 2018, was conceived with the explicit purpose of presenting an elegant, classical timepiece. At the heart of the MB&F SP One, which was originally codenamed “Three Circles,” are therefore the three key elements of any mechanical watch: the mainspring barrel, the balance wheel, and the dial, all of which share the same circumference on the SP One. This construction also reveals the primary allure of the SP One: its skeletonised execution allows the wearer to observe the power transmission of the movement through the watch’s sapphire crystal.
The energy stored in the mainspring barrel is slowly released, setting the gear train in motion and ultimately reaching the escapement and balance wheel, which regulate the watch’s consistent rate. The use of two sapphire crystals – on both the front and reverse – enables the mechanism to be viewed even when the watch is turned over. Here, in addition to the calibre with a 72-hour power reserve, one can discern hand-bevelled wheels and bridges, which have been given an anthracite aesthetic through a ruthenium finish. Not least, the calibre comprises 191 individual components and is hand-wound.
Aesthetically, the novelty unmistakably draws from the design established by the LM collection. Defining characteristics of this collection primarily include the round cases, the often inclined dials with Roman numerals, the low-frequency movements operating at 2.5 Hz, and not least, the rounded bridges featuring the characteristic flying balance wheel inherent to every Legacy Machine. While the MB&F SP One adopts the traits of the round case shape, the 2.5 Hz frequency (18,000 vibrations per hour), and the inclined dial with its black DLC coating, it deviates from the LM concept primarily by featuring an open mainspring barrel – rather than a concealed one.
To provide a subtle framework for the intricate mechanics and the sapphire crystals on both the front and reverse, the case – available in either platinum or 18-carat rose gold, depending on the variant – almost entirely recedes into the background. With a height of just 12 mm, the SP One is the slattest watch MB&F has ever produced, while its 38 mm diameter also ensures a discreet presence on the wrist. Although the SP One’s case lacks a bezel, it features an inner ring of a different colour depending on the case variant: a light blue hue for the platinum version and a grey tone for the rose gold version. Furthermore, the case, comprising 19 individual components, ensures water resistance up to 3 bar (30 metres).
However, this novelty, whose concept diverges significantly from the brand’s previous timepieces, inevitably raised questions: Since when has MB&F been concerned with elegance anyway? It is therefore hardly surprising that critical voices emerged on social media – both concerning the watch itself and the concept it embodies. At the heart of the discussion was the assessment that it might be a deliberately more accessible, less overtly designed model, potentially leading to higher production volumes and a resulting dilution of the brand’s identity.
Furthermore, it was noted that the SP One could mark a turning point in design direction – an attempt to open MB&F to a broader target audience. This criticism was specifically highlighted by the watch blog ScrewDownCrown. MB&F explicitly responded to this criticism, stating that the novelty would not bring about a significant increase in production volume between 2024 and 2026, with the declared goal being to achieve “the same turnover as 2023.” According to ScrewDownCrown, an annual production of around 60 units of the SP One is planned.
At the same time, it can be countered that the SP One – although the first timepiece in the new Special Projects collection – is, according to MB&F, neither intended to be style-defining nor a blueprint for future models in this line. Rather, the Special Projects are about presenting watches that deliberately do not fit into the existing collections, yet still embody the principle of an open attitude towards form and fantasy. Ultimately, the impression remains: even if the SP One does not represent a reorientation of MB&F’s creative concept, its form and design appear to be an attempt to broaden the brand’s appeal beyond its current circle of collectors – yet without expanding production volume.
Worn on a calfskin strap with a tang buckle crafted from white or rose gold, the MB&F SP One is available in either platinum or rose gold. The platinum version is priced at CHF 63,000 or EUR 69,000, while the rose gold model costs CHF 58,000 or EUR 64,000 (all prices exclude taxes).
