The New Breitling Chronomat And The Comeback of Rouleaux
Exactly 80 years ago, Willy Breitling received a patent for a chronograph with a circular slide rule. It was the birth of the now age-old Chronomat that two years later, in 1942, was first presented to the public with Reference 769. The name Chronomat is derived from the words chronograph and mathematics. This is because, thanks to this new rotating bezel, certain calculations such as the ‘rule of three’ calculation, plus multiplication and division could be worked out.
Breitling Chronomat Ref. 786 from 1951 and Navitimer Aopa Ref. 806 from 1955
In 1952, an extended version of the Chronomat was presented, which many people today most likely regard as the epitome of the slide rule watch, rather than the model from 1942. The Navitimer Ref. 806 from 1952 was somewhat more advanced, and was able to conduct even more complex calculations that were particularly essential for aviation. Whereas the Chronomat of the 1940s with its original version of the slide rule was principally created for use by scientists and technicians, it was the Navitimer that finally established itself as a pilots watch.
100 years of Breitling and a new design for Chronomat
In the 1980s, the design of the Chronomat was drastically changed. In 1983, Breitling developed a new Chronomat for the aerial squadron of the Italian air force ‘Frecce Tricolori’. It had nothing in common with the slide rulers from the past. In 1984, on the occasion of the brand’s 100th anniversary, the new model Ref. 81950 was introduced to the public and also commercially produced. Instead of the slide rule, a striking bezel with applied rider tabs rose up from the case. An onion-shaped crown and pushers, often seen on pilot’s watches, also graced this model. Instead of relating to ‘chronograph’ and ‘mathematics’, they now used the terms ‘chronograph’ and ‘automatic’ to justify the name ‘Chronomat’ – and fortunately, it still made sense.
Breitling Chronomat Ref. 81950 from 1984
Furthermore, the hand-wound chronograph Venus 175 was replaced by a highly precise automatic movement, the Valjoux 7750. Back in 1969 Breitling had already been using an automatic chronograph movement in a Chronomat watch (Chrono-Matic) with the famous Calibre 11, which was co-produced with some other Swiss manufacturers to become one of the very first automatic chronograph movements for wristwatches. At a time when the Swiss watch industry was still shaken from the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Breitling’s Chronomat from 1984 was one of the first chronographs with a mechanical movement to re-enter the market.
You are currently viewing a placeholder content from Default. To access the actual content, click the button below. Please note that doing so will share data with third-party providers.
Georges Kern explains the new Chronomat collection
The new Chronomat
As a tribute to the 1984 anniversary models, Breitling is now launching a series of new Chronomat timepieces. Some of their features are strongly linked to the retro style from the past, but are interpreted in a modern way. The most striking feature that will please many fans of this series is likely the integrated Rouleaux bracelet, which has been re-issued for the first time since 1984. The bracelet’s stainless-steel has a brushed finish with polished interlinks, giving it a quirky, modern yet retro look.
The comeback of the striking integrated Rouleaux bracelet from 1984
Additionally, the new Chronomat watches have inherited the signature rotating bezel highlighted by rider tabs. They not only protect the crystal but also historically made the use of the bezel for “Frecce Tricolori” pilots easier. Furthermore, the tabs have another very useful function. The two tabs at 3 and 9 o’clock are interchangeable so that the wearer can use them as either a ‘count up’ or ‘count down’ function.
Chronomat B01 42 Ref. AB0134101B1A1
The Chronomat is the all-purpose sports watch
But for whom was the Chronomat of the 1980s actually made for? Of course, due to its history from the 1950s it was very popular amongst pilots and remains a key pilots chronograph in Breitling’s portfolio to this day. Numerous variations were available, with different sizes, colours, materials and special editions offered to attract a wide field of watch enthusiasts.
Chronomat B01 42 Ref. AB0134101K1A1
The Chronomat is a masculine and sporty model that also can be worn with a suit. As a result, it is much more versatile than the bulky Colt or Avenger models. Its versatility added to its allure in the late 1980s and early 1990s as its tachymeter attracted the interest of Formula 1 teams, while the reversible rider tabs turned out to be useful for sailing regattas.
Chronomat B01 42 Ref. AB0134101C1A1
To this day, Breitling continues to offer its clients a versatile and all-purpose Chronomat. It comes with several different metal and dial variations – however, for the time being, the model simply offers a uniform case size of 42 mm, one bracelet option and is without additional functions such as a second time zone (GMT). This leaves some room for creativity for more exciting versions in the upcoming years.
Chronomat B01 42 Ref. AB0134101G1A1
Chronomat B01 42 and Chronomat B01 42 Bentley
The new Chronomat B01 42 (Ref. AB0134101G1A1, AB0134101K1A1, AB0134101C1A1 and AB0134101B1A1) comes with a modern-looking choice of a silver, copper or blue dial with black contrasting chronograph counters. It is also available with a black dial with silver contrasting chronograph counters.
Chronomat B01 42 in stainless-steel
The Chronomat B01 42 Bentley (Ref. AB01343A1L1A1) has been added to the lineto celebrate the long-lasting partnership with the British luxury car brand. It has a green dial with black chronograph counters and features a ‘Bentley’ engraving around the transparent sapphire caseback, thereby adding attention the special model. The four steel versions cost 7,950 euros each and the Bentley special edition costs 8,100 euros.
Chronomat B01 42 Bentley Ref. AB01343A1L1A1
In the spirit of the 1980s, back when gold and bicolor watches were truly in their heyday, the new collection also incorporates a touch of 80s vibes. The Chronomat B01 42 (Ref. IB0134101G1A1) is fitted with an 18 k red gold crown and pushers as well as 18 k red gold rider tabs, numerals and indexes. The fancy bicolor-watch has a silver dial with silver tone-on-tone subdials and is presented on a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp, at a price of 9,100 euros.
Chronomat B01 42 Two Tone
The bicolor line is extended with two more Chronomat B01 42 references. Their main difference is that the Rouleaux bracelet is also presented in bicolor – stainless steel and 18 k red gold. Reference UB0134101C1U1 is adorned with an elegant blue dial with tone-on-tone chronograph counters – Reference UB0134101B1U1 comes with an anthracite dial with black contrasting chronograph counters. Price: 11,800 euros each.
Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition
As a tribute to the original model from 1983 that inspired the modern Chronomat line, Breitling also launches the Chronomat B01 42 Frecce Tricolori Limited Edition (250 pieces) with blue dial and tone-on-tone chronograph counters. On the dial, the Breitling lettering has been replaced by the “Frecce Tricolori” logo. Its caseback is engraved with the words “ONE OF 250”. Like the rest of the new Chronomat models, it is presented on a Rouleaux bracelet with a butterfly clasp. Price: 8,100 euros.
Each chronograph of the new Chronomat line is powered by the precise Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, that stands out for its enduring power reserve of 70 hours. Like all Breitling watches, the Chonomats are COSC-certified chronometers. On an interesting side note – when Breitling launched its in-house Manufacture Calibre 01 in 2009, it was first introduced in the Chronomat 01.
Breitling has introduced a brand new collection, the Breitling Capsule Collection Superocean Heritage '57. Its watches are reminiscent of the laid-back Californian surfer lifestyle of the 50s and 60s, while their inspiration stems from the original 1957 Breitling SuperOcean. As well as three variations, Breitling has also released the colourful Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition.…
The history of the Omega Speedmaster is a tale of remarkable achievements, an impressive heritage, and some of the finest timepieces Omega has ever produced throughout its long-standing history. In this article, we will take an in-depth look at the origins of this iconic model, which holds such significance for the brand, and introduce some…
Something of a curse within the Swiss watches industry is that almost every horology house lays claim to being the first of their kind: a record-breaker, an inventor, a pioneer. The same applies to the field of chronograph watches, aka a timepiece that offers precision timekeeping and measurement. And no wonder: it’s an extraordinarily vast…
The French language sounds just as pretty like a chanson from Edith Piaf. A rather uncharming word like ‘cow horns’ turns in French into an elegant ‘Cornes de Vache’. This example is not chosen by accident: it is the nickname of a very special watch from Vacheron Constantin, that in 1955 appeared by the simple…
There are brands and manufactures with a clearly louder appearance, however rarely ones with a more sonorous. Jaeger-LeCoultre is an instance in the field of minute repeaters. In 1895, the year the first pocket watch with grand complication was presented, the Jaeger-LeCoultre workshops patented the first so called silent strike regulator. Ever since, around 200…
When John McEnroe and Björn Borg take to the stage at the gala event in Berlin on Thursday evening before the start of the Laver Cup 2024, it will be the last time the two eternal rivals introduce their teams. After seven tournaments since 2017 (the Laver Cup was cancelled in 2020 due to Covid),…
Everyone forges their own unique professional path – and Pascal Narbeburu, current Timepieces Director at Van Cleef & Arpels, is no exception. His journey to the position is particularly interesting for two reasons. Firstly, he has worked exclusively for Richemont-led maisons that combine high jewellery and watchmaking: Piaget, Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Secondly,…
At SIHH watch fair 2018 Montblanc has introduced a whole new range of exciting watches from their 1858 collection celebrating 160 years of the Minerva Manufacture – and dedicated them to the Mountain Explorations from the 1920s and 1930s. Last year Montblanc’s 1858 collection was reissued. This year these watches are re-launched with a little…
Before considering the best green dial watches of 2024 thus far, let's start with some context. Historians have long defined different eras through time frames containing common characteristics. In the watch world, to give an obvious example, you could say that the pocket watch era spanned from the 16th to 20th century. Meanwhile, the birth…
Last year, we explored the top timepieces of the Year of the Dragon, as various brands presented their own interpretations to herald the year in. The Year of the Snake, however, marks a particularly apt moment for one brand in particular, as it provides fashion house Bulgari with the perfect opportunity to reimagine its iconic…
The American Florentine Ariosto Jones founded the brand IWC in 1868 and he wanted to pair Swiss craftsmanship in watchmaking with American manufacturing technologies. IWC became a specialist in creating excellent pocket watches. Even though the brand’s initials stand for ‘International’ Watch Company and was founded by an American citizen, it always was – and…
Victor Lance Vescovo is a special person in many ways. While visiting the Greek island of Mykonos for the 75th anniversary of the Omega Seamaster, Swisswatches met this titan of a man; slender as a whip, with a white beard and long white hair held scraped back with a hair tie, he looks like a…
In 1972, Audemars Piguet launched its Royal Oak, which is considered the first luxury sports watch to have been made of steel. In 1976, Patek Philippe followed suit by introducing its first Nautilus. Over the years, the hype surrounding both models has led to a lack of availability at any official retailer, let alone the…