Welcome to the New Era: The Louis Vuitton Tambour 2023
As the Tambour watch reaches its 21st birthday, Louis Vuitton is honouring its most important model with a successor – and what a successor it is. The goal is clear: to move up into the highest class of watchmaking. Will it succeed? How good really is the new Louis Vuitton Tambour? And will Louis Vuitton watches now be more interesting for top collectors? Swisswatches took a look at the new Tambour at its launch in Paris, and is here to share the most important details. One thing becomes clear at first glance: even those who are not fans of this brand, which is still considered young in the long-established watch sector, have to acknowledge that the utmost attention has been paid to every detail that watch aficionados hold dear.
“We wanted to keep everything about this watch and at the same time raise it to a completely new level – to absolute perfection” – Jean Arnault
With its drum-shaped case faithfully housing numerous interpretations, from classic chronographs to haute horlogerie works of art, the Tambour has faithfully played host to many of Louis Vuitton’s accomplished creations. Now, the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, flourishing under the care of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, is signalling the start of a new era with the launch of a reimagined Tambour, designed to accompany the brand into the future. These new Tambour models are destined to replace no less than 80 percent of the brand’s current entry level watches, indicating their vital role in the years to come. Let’s take a look.
The dial
Pragmatic yet aesthetic decoration: Perfection lies in the detail
What we are seeing in the 2023 Tambour is a new, sleeker version of its predecessors: and this all starts with the dial. Although the dial measures a mere millimetre in height, it nevertheless conveys beautiful depth thanks to a thoughtful design and well-executed finishing. The centre of the dial is brushed, creating a clean and contemporary aesthetic, while the snailed finishing on the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock adds a sporty touch. The manufacture’s designers build upon this modern look with two sandblasted rings for the hour markers and minute track – perfectly signalling this watch’s role as a state-of-the-art reimagination of the iconic, brand-defining Tambour. As of now, two dial colours are available: grey (Ref. W1ST10) or blue (Ref. W1ST20).
Designed for everyday use – Highly legible with a timeless design
Notably, the combination of Arabic numeral and baton hour markers serves to provide plenty of space on the dial of this novelty, while SuperLumi-Nova provides the wearer with legibility round the clock. Likewise, the decision to add pronounced five minute markers at 12, 2, 4, 8, and 10 o’clock makes for easy orientation and very quick reading of the time. Likewise, opting for new open-worked hands on the watch successfully adds yet more space to the 2023 Tambour’s crisp new dial.
Case and bracelet
A universal design – but more refined than ever
Fortunately for the faithful fans of the iconic timepiece, the 2023 version is still unmistakably a Tambour. Naturally, the model still features the words ‘LOUIS VUITTON’ around the outer bezel of the steel case and maintains the famous drum-like shape. Yet the timepiece has undoubtedly been refined, with its case, now measuring only 8.3 mm in height, designed to follow the line of any wrist. That said, the caseback is not flat, but ascends in an arc towards the centre, fitting the natural curve of the forearm as it approaches the wrist.
As with the dial, finishing is of the utmost importance on the new Louis Vuitton Tambour. Therefore, La Fabrique du Temps opt for a sandblasted outer bezel, predominantly brushed surfaces across the case, and a contemporary polished crown boasting the brand’s world-famous logo. A final note on the new-and-improved case: the sports watch provides ample water-resistance to 50 m.
Stay close: The new bracelet
Many collectors know this, yet only a few manufacturers take it to heart: to create a watch that is liked by many and worn frequently, the bracelet and its quality often prove decisive. In a move to create a piece that works for everyone, the manufacture is bestowing the Tambour with a completely new bracelet. Furthermore, the lugs have been removed entirely. The integrated bracelet on this sporty timepiece uses curved links; convex on their upper surfaces and convex on the underside. This forms a rounded profile that maintains a continuous line of touch with the wearer’s entire wrist. Having tried it out, we can confirm that in terms of comfort and wearability, this watch is second to none. The bracelet secures to the wrist using an invisible triple-blade folding buckle, only slightly visible to the wearer thanks to the engraved LOUIS VUITTON on the end link.
The calibre
A visual spectacle: The highlights
The 2023 Tambour model’s movement, the calibre LFT023, is a real talking point. Not only is it an absolute stunner, but also, it is de facto the first self-developed three-hand automatic movement, completely developed and designed around the team of Michael Navas and Enrico Barbarsini. Finely decorated and bestowed with 31 transparent jewels, wearers can admire the new calibre via the sapphire crystal caseback. The shining star of the calibre is the decorated micro-rotor, glowing in 22-carat gold and stylised in a repeating ‘LV’ motif. The perlage of the bridges and the polissage and finish of the edges are wonderful examples of a deep understanding of watch history and what matters to collectors. La Fabrique du Temps will apply this special new standard of finishing to all of its future watches, whether supposedly entry level or haute horlogerie.
Accompanying the striking micro-rotor is an open-worked barrel cover evoking the brand’s monogram flower. Meanwhile, other decoration includes micro-sandblasted bridges, polished edges, and chamfers that match perfectly to the overall aesthetic of the watch. For a more traditional touch, the movement also showcases a circular-grained mainplate. Interestingly, La Fabrique du Temps will use the standard of decoration on this brand new movement as a kind of blueprint to apply to all of its future watches, whether entry level or haute horlogerie.
A functional calibre for a functional watch
Moving onto the facts and figures, the automatic movement measures a nicely compact 4.2 mm in height. Providing hours, minutes, and small seconds, the calibre offers 50 hours of power reserve while its balance wheel works with frequency of 4 Hz. A chronometer certified by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory, the new Tambour 2023 complies with its exacting criteria for timekeeping, keeping an accuracy of between -4s and +6s per day. The calibre LFT023 was created in conjunction with the Swiss movement specialists Le Cercle des Horlogers.
Price and availability
Last but not least, as Director of Marketing and Development for Watches at Louis Vuitton, Jean Arnault, imparted exclusively to Swisswatches: these new 2023 Tambour models will by no means be easy to get hold of. In order to ensure that consistently high quality watches emerge from the manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps plans to manufacture fewer than one thousand pieces of the new Tambour each year. Those undeterred (as the saying goes, try and fail but never fail to try!), can purchase these milestone Louis Vuitton Tambour timepieces for 19,500 euros. It’s a somewhat steep price for a stainless steel three-hand watch – but coming first has always cost a little more in life.
A year ago, Tudor entered a partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing. This year, the joint hydrofoil AC75 (America's Cup 75) racing yacht set sail. It is the first time that Tudor advances into competitive yacht racing. In celebration, two new variations of the legendary Pelagos are released. The high-speed boat's design inspired the Pelagos FXD timepiece and the chronograph Pelagos…
The new Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina departs from the conventional architecture with hands from the centre. Instead, the watchmakers have placed a tourbillon in the centre, from which the time displays wind hierarchically around the dial in stages. "Orbis" can be translated as either "circle" or "world". Both "circle in the machine" and "world…
Breguet presents two new models in its Classique collection: the Classique 5177 and Classique 7787. These references showcase the brand's commitment to traditional craftsmanship and timeless elegance. Encased in platinum, the watches feature dials made of black Grand Feu enamel, a noble material known for its beauty. The Classique 5177 offers a pure representation of…
With the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra, the Roman brand breaks the world record for the thinnest mechanical watch. The piece measures only 1.80 mm in height and thus knocks the previous world champion, the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept, off its throne. To reduce the case height even further, Bulgari's watchmakers break with tradition and not…
The Club Campus is the entry-level watch model from Nomos Glashütte. Now, the brand has introduced two new models in the colours Night Sky and Starlight. With a robust design, a mix of Roman and Arabic numerals on the dial, and the hand-wound Alpha calibre, these models are available in two sizes and offer a…
Breguet presents the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant 7077 in a new version with a blue dial. This watch features a completely independent chronograph mechanism, a unique design with dual balance wheels, and a patented blade spring system. Let’s take a closer look at this watch and its features. Case The case of the Tradition Chronographe Indépendant…
The Hublot Square Bang is a reinterpretation of the Big Bang, housed in a square case. This novelty marks the first time the Manufacture has ventured into making a square case. At the same time, however, it is expanding the Shaped collection, whose only piece to date has been a tonneau watch. A total of…
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963 celebrates the connection between the two brands and motorsport. The watch is inspired by the Porsche 963, a hybrid sports car renowned in the motorsport world for its performance and technology. This shows in the design elements of the watch, which echo the race car's aesthetics. For…
On the Geneva watch fair SIHH 2019 Panerai presented a new model, inspired by sailboat racing. The Submersible Luna Rossa (Ref. PAM01039) is part of a new collection, which is released in the celebration of the sponsorship of the Italian brand for their compatriots in the sailing team Luna Rossa. A few months ago, the Italian 'Challenger of Record'…
With the Panerai Luminor Due Luna, the Italians are presenting a moon phase display for the first time in the Luminor Due collection. Initially, four variants will be released: PAM01179, PAM01180, PAM01181 and PAM01301. In addition to three steel cases, there is also a model made of the in-house Goldtech. The four newcomers present the…
Team Luna Rossa, winner of the Prada Cup during the most recent contestfor America’s Cup, is among the top sailing clubs in the world. Now, the long-standing partner of Panerai is uniting with its Italian amici once again to introduce an all-new Luminor Luna Rossa timepiece: the PAM01342. Coinciding with the beginning of the race…
A year after the first generation of the Tissot Heritage 1973, the brand now launches a second series of its barrel-shaped chronograph. This new timepiece is presented as part of the partnership that unites Tissot and the ‘Kessel Classic’ vintage car racing team. In developing the Tissot Heritage 1973, the brand was inspired by a…
Blancpain is introducing a third timepiece to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms this year. Limited to 555 pieces, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 pays homage to the MIL-SPEC used by the US Navy. Developed under the leadership of Blancpain's then Co-Director General and avid diver Jean-Jacques Fichter, Blancpain's original Fifty…