Welcome to the New Era: The Louis Vuitton Tambour 2023
As the Tambour watch reaches its 21st birthday, Louis Vuitton is honouring its most important model with a successor – and what a successor it is. The goal is clear: to move up into the highest class of watchmaking. Will it succeed? How good really is the new Louis Vuitton Tambour? And will Louis Vuitton watches now be more interesting for top collectors? Swisswatches took a look at the new Tambour at its launch in Paris, and is here to share the most important details. One thing becomes clear at first glance: even those who are not fans of this brand, which is still considered young in the long-established watch sector, have to acknowledge that the utmost attention has been paid to every detail that watch aficionados hold dear.
“We wanted to keep everything about this watch and at the same time raise it to a completely new level – to absolute perfection” – Jean Arnault
With its drum-shaped case faithfully housing numerous interpretations, from classic chronographs to haute horlogerie works of art, the Tambour has faithfully played host to many of Louis Vuitton’s accomplished creations. Now, the La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, flourishing under the care of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, is signalling the start of a new era with the launch of a reimagined Tambour, designed to accompany the brand into the future. These new Tambour models are destined to replace no less than 80 percent of the brand’s current entry level watches, indicating their vital role in the years to come. Let’s take a look.
The dial
Pragmatic yet aesthetic decoration: Perfection lies in the detail
What we are seeing in the 2023 Tambour is a new, sleeker version of its predecessors: and this all starts with the dial. Although the dial measures a mere millimetre in height, it nevertheless conveys beautiful depth thanks to a thoughtful design and well-executed finishing. The centre of the dial is brushed, creating a clean and contemporary aesthetic, while the snailed finishing on the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock adds a sporty touch. The manufacture’s designers build upon this modern look with two sandblasted rings for the hour markers and minute track – perfectly signalling this watch’s role as a state-of-the-art reimagination of the iconic, brand-defining Tambour. As of now, two dial colours are available: grey (Ref. W1ST10) or blue (Ref. W1ST20).
Designed for everyday use – Highly legible with a timeless design
Notably, the combination of Arabic numeral and baton hour markers serves to provide plenty of space on the dial of this novelty, while SuperLumi-Nova provides the wearer with legibility round the clock. Likewise, the decision to add pronounced five minute markers at 12, 2, 4, 8, and 10 o’clock makes for easy orientation and very quick reading of the time. Likewise, opting for new open-worked hands on the watch successfully adds yet more space to the 2023 Tambour’s crisp new dial.
Case and bracelet
A universal design – but more refined than ever
Fortunately for the faithful fans of the iconic timepiece, the 2023 version is still unmistakably a Tambour. Naturally, the model still features the words ‘LOUIS VUITTON’ around the outer bezel of the steel case and maintains the famous drum-like shape. Yet the timepiece has undoubtedly been refined, with its case, now measuring only 8.3 mm in height, designed to follow the line of any wrist. That said, the caseback is not flat, but ascends in an arc towards the centre, fitting the natural curve of the forearm as it approaches the wrist.
As with the dial, finishing is of the utmost importance on the new Louis Vuitton Tambour. Therefore, La Fabrique du Temps opt for a sandblasted outer bezel, predominantly brushed surfaces across the case, and a contemporary polished crown boasting the brand’s world-famous logo. A final note on the new-and-improved case: the sports watch provides ample water-resistance to 50 m.
Stay close: The new bracelet
Many collectors know this, yet only a few manufacturers take it to heart: to create a watch that is liked by many and worn frequently, the bracelet and its quality often prove decisive. In a move to create a piece that works for everyone, the manufacture is bestowing the Tambour with a completely new bracelet. Furthermore, the lugs have been removed entirely. The integrated bracelet on this sporty timepiece uses curved links; convex on their upper surfaces and convex on the underside. This forms a rounded profile that maintains a continuous line of touch with the wearer’s entire wrist. Having tried it out, we can confirm that in terms of comfort and wearability, this watch is second to none. The bracelet secures to the wrist using an invisible triple-blade folding buckle, only slightly visible to the wearer thanks to the engraved LOUIS VUITTON on the end link.
The calibre
A visual spectacle: The highlights
The 2023 Tambour model’s movement, the calibre LFT023, is a real talking point. Not only is it an absolute stunner, but also, it is de facto the first self-developed three-hand automatic movement, completely developed and designed around the team of Michael Navas and Enrico Barbarsini. Finely decorated and bestowed with 31 transparent jewels, wearers can admire the new calibre via the sapphire crystal caseback. The shining star of the calibre is the decorated micro-rotor, glowing in 22-carat gold and stylised in a repeating ‘LV’ motif. The perlage of the bridges and the polissage and finish of the edges are wonderful examples of a deep understanding of watch history and what matters to collectors. La Fabrique du Temps will apply this special new standard of finishing to all of its future watches, whether supposedly entry level or haute horlogerie.
Accompanying the striking micro-rotor is an open-worked barrel cover evoking the brand’s monogram flower. Meanwhile, other decoration includes micro-sandblasted bridges, polished edges, and chamfers that match perfectly to the overall aesthetic of the watch. For a more traditional touch, the movement also showcases a circular-grained mainplate. Interestingly, La Fabrique du Temps will use the standard of decoration on this brand new movement as a kind of blueprint to apply to all of its future watches, whether entry level or haute horlogerie.
A functional calibre for a functional watch
Moving onto the facts and figures, the automatic movement measures a nicely compact 4.2 mm in height. Providing hours, minutes, and small seconds, the calibre offers 50 hours of power reserve while its balance wheel works with frequency of 4 Hz. A chronometer certified by the Geneva Chronometric Observatory, the new Tambour 2023 complies with its exacting criteria for timekeeping, keeping an accuracy of between -4s and +6s per day. The calibre LFT023 was created in conjunction with the Swiss movement specialists Le Cercle des Horlogers.
Price and availability
Last but not least, as Director of Marketing and Development for Watches at Louis Vuitton, Jean Arnault, imparted exclusively to Swisswatches: these new 2023 Tambour models will by no means be easy to get hold of. In order to ensure that consistently high quality watches emerge from the manufacture, La Fabrique du Temps plans to manufacture fewer than one thousand pieces of the new Tambour each year. Those undeterred (as the saying goes, try and fail but never fail to try!), can purchase these milestone Louis Vuitton Tambour timepieces for 19,500 euros. It’s a somewhat steep price for a stainless steel three-hand watch – but coming first has always cost a little more in life.
A year ago, Tudor entered a partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing. This year, the joint hydrofoil AC75 (America's Cup 75) racing yacht set sail. It is the first time that Tudor advances into competitive yacht racing. In celebration, two new variations of the legendary Pelagos are released. The high-speed boat's design inspired the Pelagos FXD timepiece and the chronograph Pelagos…
Hublot is presenting the Big Bang Unico Essential Grey, a new model designed exclusively for the company's own e-commerce platform. This version of the Big Bang is remarkable for its monochrome grey design. The case is of lightweight titanium and has a full satin finish. The unisex watch integrates in-house mechanics featuring a flyback function…
With its cushion-shaped case, the Monaco from TAG Heuer is an icon among racing-inspired watches. On the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2024, the LVMH brand is presenting two new models with a unique design and split-seconds chronograph. The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is available with classic blue accents or in a more intense…
Breguet's two new ladies' models, the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838, take their inspiration from the first-ever wristwatch, delivered to the Queen of Naples (Napoleon's sister) in 1812. Interestingly, the minute hands on these latest additions to the Reine de Naples collection adopt a variety of shapes while moving around the dial. Case The…
Team Luna Rossa, winner of the Prada Cup during the most recent contestfor America’s Cup, is among the top sailing clubs in the world. Now, the long-standing partner of Panerai is uniting with its Italian amici once again to introduce an all-new Luminor Luna Rossa timepiece: the PAM01342. Coinciding with the beginning of the race…
This November, Zenith is introducing its first ever automatic watch to feature an integrated carbon bracelet. The case of the Zenith DEFY Classic Carbon is made of the same material. The use of carbon makes the new, dark timepiece light, durable, and unique in its appearance. Aside from the much-discussed black bracelet, the watch is…
In 2019, Breitling introduced their first Re-Edition of a Navitimer Ref. 806 from 1959. Now, this series is being expanded by Ref. 765 AVI from 1953, a pilot’s watch (AVI stood for aviation), known as the Co-Pilot. The Co-Pilot was a 1950s interpretation of the onboard clocks designed and produced by Breitling’s Huit Aviation Department…
After waiting with bated breath, Tudor fans around the world may now breathe a collective sigh of relief as the Swiss watch manufacture reveals its latest release: the new Pelagos FXD. In homage to the decades of Tudor watches worn on the wrist of US naval divers, the Swiss horology house is introducing this new…
The two new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph are notable for their exciting material combinations and first-class mechanics. One of them has a black ceramic case with a blue bezel and blue pushers. The second model is in rose gold and titanium instead. Inside the watches is the brand's latest chronograph with flyback function.…
Audemars Piguet is introducing a new variant of the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph. The watch combines complicated mechanics with an open dial and a case in rose gold and black ceramic for the first time. The new model is a limited edition of 50 pieces. The Case Combines Ceramic And Rose Gold The…
The Captain Cook is perhaps one of the most popular models in Rado's portfolio. First launched in 1962, the Captain Cook represented the era of great expeditions, explorers and adventures, and at the same time served the emerging trend of diving watches. Now, with the new Captain Cook, Rado presents a model that not only…
With the Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148, Montblanc presents two new timepieces that draw on the rich past of the Minerva watch manufacture. With them, the new Montblanc manufacture calibre MB M14.08, inspired by a historic Minerva calibre, makes its debut. It was constructed according to the proportions of the golden ratio and…
In 2017, Breguet gave a new face to its Marine line through a revamped aesthetic style, combining a sense of modernity and dynamism: an original bracelet lug, reworked fluting, as well as a crown surrounded by a wave decor and adorned with a wider “B.” Breguet Marine 5517 in rose gold with leather strap Ref.…