W&W 2025: Cartier Treats Tank Louis Cartier to Automatic Manufacture Movement

Cartier has introduced two new iterations of the Tank Louis Cartier, thus expanding one of its most emblematic watch designs. As a successor to the original Tank Normale, first conceived in 1917, the Tank Louis Cartier has been an enduring symbol of elegance and refinement since its creation in 1922, making it an ever-popular centenarian.

Cartier Tank Normale – 1917

With this latest release, Cartier reaffirms the model’s enduring appeal while integrating modern technical advancements. How? It now features an automatic manufacture movement, the 1899 MC, which respects the model’s basic DNA while allowing for the Tank Louis Cartier to make its debut with larger dimensions.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Automatic

Background

The Tank has undergone numerous transformations throughout its history, evolving in shape, size, materials, and mechanics. Over the decades, Cartier has reinterpreted the design through models such as the Tank Cintrée, Tank Chinoise, Tank Asymétrique, Tank Américaine, and Tank Française, as well as the recent Tank Must with its innovative SolarBeat photovoltaic movement. The Tank Louis Cartier, however, remains a cornerstone of this evolution, defined by its elongated rectangular case, softened angles, and refined brancards.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier – 1922

Sleek designs: The case

The two new models are available in yellow gold or rose gold cases. With enlarged dimensions of 38.1 x 27.75 mm, alongside a height of 8.18 mm, the new timepieces certainly command more of a presence of the wrist, while retaining their highly elegant appeal. To consider the contrast between last year’s release of the quartz-powered Tank Mini (measuring 24 mm x 16.5 mm) and this year’s Tank Louis Cartier with automatic movement is really quite something, and certainly reflects just how varied the demands of this maison’s clientele really is. In any case, as always, these latest precious metal watches bear a beaded winding crown is set with a cabochon, and the rounded parallel brancards are polished, while the case and bezel showcase a matte satin-brushed finish.

The dial

Both watches retain the signature elements of the Tank collection, including the railway track minute markers, Roman numerals, and blued-steel sword-shaped hands that make the watch so distinctive. That said, upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that something has changed: these new automatic models feature something resembling a sunburst dial effect, although each of the outward-stretching lines are broadly stretched apart. This flinqué dial creates something of a more old-school look, and is certainly a nice extra detail that gives new life, not to mention depth, to the watch model. Finally, the new watch dials, which are protected by a mineral glass, proudly bear the word AUTOMATIC at 6 o’clock.

Larger case, automatic movement

As already explained, for this latest release, Cartier has introduced a larger case size, incorporating a new-generation automatic mechanical movement. The calibre 1899 MC, with its 38-hour power reserve and frequency of 4 Hz, has been developed specifically to integrate seamlessly within the proportions of the Tank Louis Cartier, preserving the watch’s balanced aesthetic while offering the convenience of automatic winding. We’ve seen the calibre 1899 before, of course, in the form of the 2023 Tank Américaine, which drew attention for its minimally (but still relevant in the world of watches) slimmer proportions, which allowed the case size to be reduced by 1 mm. Given the extraordinary longevity of Cartier’s watch models, by which every design and technological decision is scrutinised, the decision to create an automatic Tank Louis Cartier had to be executed with the utmost care. With Cartier carrying the crown of ‘King of Shapes’ in the Swiss watch industry, it was no doubt important to tread a fine line between providing a self-winding movement and ensuring that the refined case of the Tank Louis Cartier remained well-proportioned – and certainly not too large. The 1899 MC seems to have provided the perfect solution.

Strap: Luxe leather

Finally, the yellow-gold version of the Tank Louis Cartier features a semi-matte grey alligator leather strap, while its rose-gold counterpart is paired with a semi-matte brown alligator leather strap.

The Verdict

In today’s fast-moving world of UV-resistant carbon composite cases and mini roulette wheel watch dials, it’s reassuring to see stalwart watchmaking companies like Cartier make slow and steady changes such as this one. Cartier historians will know that the brand’s first self-winding Tank watch, known as the ‘Automatique Jumbo’ duo, was introduced by Cartier just over 50 years ago. That Tank, however, notably used an ETA movement as opposed to an MC in-house creation.

It’s worth noting that just recently, Cartier announced that it NSO (New Special Order) programme was coming to an end, partly due to growing concerns that the programme diminished brand identity. With these latest self-winding iterations, we can enjoy a moment of reassurance that this brand remains as cool, calm and collected (literally) as ever, while steadily paving the way for clients to come.

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