Telling the Time with Flowers? Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Heures Florales
It’s fair to say that across the Swiss watch industry, it is men’s and unisex watches that tend to be the most technically interesting. A timepiece that breaks this trend, however, is Van Cleef’s Lady Arpels Heures Florales. Charmingly beautiful on the surface, this watch is in fact a horological masterpiece.
Van Cleef & Arpels’ Lady Arpels Heures Florales – Ref. VCARPBJL00
But that’s not all. When it comes to uniting horology and horticulture, it’s safe to say that the relationship is pretty non-existent. Or is it? In this article, we are going to buckle our botanical belts and discover how an influential 18th century Swedish scientist inspired the creation of the Heures Florales timepieces.
Using the mantra Poetry of Time, Van Cleef creates Complicated Poetry timepieces with a dreamy and ethereal quality to them; from fantastical fairies communing with ladybirds to lovers gracefully meeting on a bridge in Paris.
Poetry of Time is an interesting choice of words: some of the most acclaimed poetic works ever written focus on the concept of time. There’s Auden’s Funeral Blues: ‘Stop all the clocks, cut off the telephone’. Or Shakespeare’s Sonnet 19: ‘do thy worst, old Time: despite thy wrong, / My love shall in my verse ever live young.’ Through poetry, humans use time to reflect on emotions, experiences, memories, and the wonders of the world.
Poet and playwright William Shakespeare, sketch from the First Folio (1623)
We use the word ‘time’ to refer to an era, an exact moment, a measurement, an event, an experience, a musical rhythm. Time is a multifaceted word – and this is what the Poetic Complication watches reflect in the stories they tell.
Lady Arpels Heures Florales
With this in mind, it won’t be a surprise to learn that the Lady Arpels Heures Florales watch is not just a pretty face. But while we are on the subject: the front of the watch is a cluster of miniature butterflies, glittering jewels, and yellow-gold branches that arch across the dial. Yet, as the name suggests, it is the flowers that play a central role in this highly technical piece, as the flower petals open and close to display the time. Creating this unique model was no easy feat, with the time from conception to creation taking Van Cleef & Arpels a full five years.
Lady Arpels Heures Florales– Ref. VCARPBJM00
Botanical inspiration behind Lady Arpels Heures Florales
Van Cleef & Arpels has long held an interest in nature, from 1920s Art Deco flower brooches to 1960s desk clocks adorned with singing birds. The inspiration behind the Lady Arpels Heures Florales, however, stretches back to an intriguing idea conceived by Swedish botanist Carl von Linné way back in 1751.
Guess who came up with the term Homo sapiens (wise man)? Correct – Carl von Linné. Dubbed the ‘Pliny of the North’, referring to the most famous natural historian of all time, von Linné’s reputation exceeds him: Jean-Jacques Rousseau conveyed the message ‘Tell him I know no greater man on earth.’ Goethe wrote, ‘With the exception of Shakespeare and Spinoza, I know no-one among the no longer living who has influenced me more strongly.’ A colleague simply quipped, ‘God created and Carl von Linné organised.’
Portrait of Carl von Linné Photo by Mikael Wallerstedt Oil painting by Johan Henric Scheffel
Perhaps most meaningfully for Van Cleef & Arpels, however, were the words of prolific Swedish writer August Strindberg. His description of von Linné is that he was ‘a poet who happened to become a naturalist.’ Who better to inspire a Poetry in Time timepiece than the man who found poetry in nature?
“When we work on watchmaking projects, our goal is to use mechanisms to capture the poetry of the passage of time. And what could be more poetic than measuring time with the opening and closing of flowers?“
Nicolas Bos, President and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels
Carl von Linné’s ‘Flower Clock’
In his work Philosophia Botanica, von Linné presents a hypothetical garden plan made up of a broad variety of plants, whose flowers open and close at specific moments of the day to display the time. This concept bears the name Horologium Florae: the flower clock.
Von Linné decided that flowers could fall into three separate categories. Firstly, Meteorici flowers, which open and close according to the weather – for example Zephyranthes carinata (Rain Lily). The second category is tropic flowers which, according to von Linné, ‘open precisely at a certain hour of the day and generally shut up every day at a determinate hour’ – e.g. Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose).
The third and final category contains the flowers chosen for von Linné’s botanical clock: the aequinoctale. These include the likes of day lilies, marigolds, and chicory. Using these flowers, the day would start, for example, at 5 am with the opening of the Convolvulus tricolor (Morning Glory) and dandelions. The afternoon would come to a close with the flowering of Mirabilis jalapa (aptly named Four o’clocks).
Whether or not von Linné’s Horologium Florae is a truly effective horological system is sadly yet to be confirmed. The largest oversight, one might say, is that the concept was applied to the specific conditions of Uppsala, an area of Sweden that enjoys sunlight for very long hours across summer. Naturally, varying temperatures across the globe also play a factor. Furthermore, von Linné’s personal categorising of flowers doesn’t strictly exist. Despite these shortcomings, it is fair to say that von Linné would never have envisaged his idea becoming a source of inspiration for a jewellery company, which would be founded only a couple of decades later in 1896.
An important element of Van Cleef & Arpel’s Poetic Complications is the combination of jeweller and watchmaker expertise. Coloured sapphires, as well as yellow and white diamonds, embed the mother-of-pearl dials of the Lady Arpels Heures Florales watches. Craftsmen apply miniature painting to the petals and butterflies, as well as sculpting the clouds in mother-of-pearl.
Engraving the caseback to echo the dial, Van Cleef & Arpels makes sure that the oscillating weight remains visible, showcasing decoration in guilloché gold and featuring a miniature painting of either a dragonfly or butterfly. Both editions come with matching interchangeable alligator leather straps, as well as an interchangeable diamond-set pin buckle.
The watch is available in two numbered editions. Housed in a 38 mm case, the Ref. VCARPBJL00 is presented in a white-gold case in combination with blue flowers, while its sibling (Ref. VCARPBJM00) comes in a rose-gold case paired with pink flowers. The aim of the blue edition is to evoke summer with fresh blue and green tones, while the pink version celebrates spring. In total, the summer edition has 424 stones, while the spring edition has 430 diamonds and 10 sapphires.
The mechanisms behind the Lady Arpels Heures Florales
In order for the Lady Arpels Heures Florales perform, 166 components are set into motion. Yet the dial alone actually has a total of 226 elements on it, arguably making it the most complex part of the entire watch.
The mechanical movement inside the watch is fitted with a special module, which opens the 12 flowers to display the hours. Every single petal of each of the 12 flowers connects to the module. As if that weren’t enough, each of the flowers has an opening process with three different sequences. For every hour that passes, the open flowers close to make way for a new combination. The next day, the sequence of the bouquets that succeed one another from hour to hour will be different. In other words, the wearer doesn’t know which flower is going to pop up next; it remains a surprise.
In addition to the flowers displaying the hours, the wearer can read the minutes laterally through a window on the side of the case. The self-winding mechanical Valfeurier movement powering the no-hands watch has a 36-hour power reserve. Despite the intricate inner and outer workings at play, the Lady Arpels Heures Florales is water-resistant to 30 metres.
Of course, the unique format of this timepiece means that the Lady Arpels Heures Florales cannot pretend to provide the quickest way to read the time. Like von Linné’s ‘flower clock’, it doesn’t intend to. Rather, this marriage of the horological and the horticultural transforms time-telling into a physical act that requires observation, dedication, and reflection – and therein lies its poetry.
The price of both versions is 265,000 euros(inc. tax).Van Cleef & Arpels created 23 pieces of each edition.
With the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante, the Glashütte manufacture is presenting a new split-seconds chronograph with a platinum case. It proudly bears the traditional design features of the 1815 collection, but surprises with an atypical placement of the subdials. The 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold "Homage to F. A. Lange" was introduced earlier, but it…
Another year around the Sun; another year of ethereal, complex Reverso models as well as several handsome new iterations of the Reverso Tribute. Let’s jump right in. Another stunner: Limited edition white-gold Reverso Hybris Artistica The Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 represents the pinnacle of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s expertise, blending technical mastery with exquisite craftsmanship. Now reinterpreted…
When Axel Leuenberger and his three companions decided to launch a new watchmaking company, they had a fairly clear idea of their goal: to create timepieces that were ‘beyond products’. Leuenberger, the CEO of Vanguart watches founded in 2017, is rather laidback when describing his integral role at the company: ‘I jump between various roles;…
Cartier has once again turned to its archive for inspiration as it unveils the latest addition to its prestigious Cartier Privé collection: a revival of the little-known Tank à Guichets. This release continues the maison’s tradition of reimagining its most emblematic designs, following iterations of the Tank Normale, Tonneau, and Tortue in recent years –…
A few weeks back we mentioned the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo while introducing bronze watches at swisswatches. We now managed to get our hands on to a piece with very unique patina, which we found so thrilling that we dedicated it a little photo story. Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo The owner bought the Panerai…
From gracing the pages of Vogue to being flashed on Jennifer Anniston’s wrist in The Morning Show, the Chopard Alpine Eagle soared onto the watch scene back in 2019. Now, in 2022, attention-grabbing additions to the line are appearing in the form of the Chrono XL and Flying Tourbillon. But before discovering the watches for ourselves, let’s delve into what lies behind the Alpine…
The clear readability of all functions on the dial of his watches has always been very important to watchmaker Louis-Abraham Breguet. The dial was consistently designed to dedicate each feature of the watch enough space to pay sufficient attention to its function. These usually were focused on hours, minutes and seconds. But what to do…
When Patek Philippe created a pilot's watch with the Reference 5524G back in 2015, the watch world was in for a surprise. For such a classic manufacture, such a striking watch seemed somewhat unusual. But the surprising new piece did not appear by chance. Patek Philippe had already developed hour-angle watches for the military back…
Let’s start with the obvious, basically there, where this story will eventually end: the name of this special edition? It’s problematic. The new “Pride of Germany” – that sounds like a cruise ship christening at best. At worst however, the combination of ‘proud’ and ‘Germany’ leaves room for discussion in this country, due to very…
This one almost slipped through our fingers. In the shadow of many huge product launches, it's easy to overlook a few new models from quieter – but by no means less important –manufacturers. Certina, a brand belonging to the Swatch Group, launched the DS-2 Powermatic 80 back in March – and it turned out extremely well! I…
It’s been another extraordinary year for us all, and the watch world is no exception. That is why the Swisswatches team sat down once more to comprise a list of our top watches of 2023. From anniversary models to world firsts, we are presenting you 24 special highlights to emerge from the ever-surprising Swiss watch…
Of all the luxury brands out there, Cartier is surely the most resplendent. The Cartier insignia, glowing in gold and set against lavish red, represents decades upon decades of history, jewels, fashion, kings, queens, actresses – and, most importantly for us, watchmaking. Understatement and refinement are important: style is vital. Allow us to paint you…
From a Rockstar point of view, IWC’s ‘Big Pilot’ watch has at least two advantages. First: being on tour, you can easily turn it into a bedside table clock due to its size and strong luminous power. Second: if you’re looking at pictures from past gigs one day, it just takes one glimpse onto the…