W&W 2025: Zenith Celebrates 160 Years Of Precision Watchmaking With the G.F.J. And Calibre 135

To mark Zenith’s 160th anniversary, the legendary calibre 135 is making a return as the centrepiece in the new G.F.J. collection. The timepiece is a tribute to the multi-award-winning calibre, which was produced in two different versions from 1949 to 1962. Its 135-O variant, manufactured for observatory chronometry competitions, broke records by winning more than 235 chronometry prizes. With a modernised version of the calibre and an elegant design with a lapis lazuli dial, the limited edition G.F.J. offers collectors a unique combination of tradition and innovation.

Case

The Zenith G.F.J.’s case is made of 950 platinum and measures 39.15 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height. The stepped bezel and rounded lugs give the watch an elegant, slim profile. With a water resistance of 5 atm, the watch is suitable for everyday use. The notched crown bears the initials G.F.J., which stand for Georges Favre-Jacot, the founder of Zenith. The case is complemented by a box-shaped sapphire crystal that protects the dial.

G.F.J. dial

The dial of the G.F.J. is a work of art in its own right thanks to its three-part construction. The blue outer ring features a unique ‘brick’ guilloché pattern, inspired by the characteristic red and white brick façade of the Zenith manufacture, and applied hour indices in 18-carat white gold. Forty hand-applied white gold beads form a discreet minute ring. The centre of the dial is made of lapis lazuli. Its gold-coloured pyrite inclusions are reminiscent of a starry sky, a detail that makes each dial unique. An oversized mother-of-pearl small seconds display is located at 6 o’clock and emphasises the watch’s luxurious character. Thin baton-style hands in white gold indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds.

Movement

The Zenith G.F.J. is powered by the famous calibre 135, a COSC-certified hand-wound movement that was originally developed for chronometry competitions. The calibre takes its name from its diameter of 13 lines, i.e. 30 mm, which is the maximum size for competitions organised by the Neuchâtel Observatory in the wristwatch category, and its height of 5 mm.

With a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and an impressive power reserve of 72 hours, the movement with its decentralised mainspring wheel pays homage to the precision and reliability of the historical version, but implements modern improvements such as a Breguet balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. The double arrow-shaped regulator characteristic of the calibre 135-O has also been adopted for precise time setting.

In addition, the dial’s ‘brick’ aesthetic is repeated as guilloché work on the bridges. While the mainspring barrel is adorned with a circular pattern, the crown wheel is black-polished.

Straps

The G.F.J. comes with three straps: a dark blue alligator leather strap, a black calfskin strap and a blue ‘Saffiano’ calfskin strap, each with a platinum pin buckle. An optional seven-row platinum bracelet with a brick pattern on the centre links and double folding clasp can be purchased on request and perfectly matches the watch’s elegant aesthetics.

Price & availability of the Zenith G.F.J.

The Zenith G.F.J. is available in a limited edition of 160 pieces and costs 52,900 euros. Interested parties can pre-order the watch exclusively in Zenith boutiques, online shops, or at authorised dealers worldwide.

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