W&W 2025: Zenith Celebrates 160 Years Of Precision Watchmaking With the G.F.J. And Calibre 135
To mark Zenith’s 160th anniversary, the legendary calibre 135 is making a return as the centrepiece in the new G.F.J. collection. The timepiece is a tribute to the multi-award-winning calibre, which was produced in two different versions from 1949 to 1962. Its 135-O variant, manufactured for observatory chronometry competitions, broke records by winning more than 235 chronometry prizes. With a modernised version of the calibre and an elegant design with a lapis lazuli dial, the limited edition G.F.J. offers collectors a unique combination of tradition and innovation.
Case
The Zenith G.F.J.’s case is made of 950 platinum and measures 39.15 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm in height. The stepped bezel and rounded lugs give the watch an elegant, slim profile. With a water resistance of 5 atm, the watch is suitable for everyday use. The notched crown bears the initials G.F.J., which stand for Georges Favre-Jacot, the founder of Zenith. The case is complemented by a box-shaped sapphire crystal that protects the dial.
G.F.J. dial
The dial of the G.F.J. is a work of art in its own right thanks to its three-part construction. The blue outer ring features a unique ‘brick’ guilloché pattern, inspired by the characteristic red and white brick façade of the Zenith manufacture, and applied hour indices in 18-carat white gold. Forty hand-applied white gold beads form a discreet minute ring. The centre of the dial is made of lapis lazuli. Its gold-coloured pyrite inclusions are reminiscent of a starry sky, a detail that makes each dial unique. An oversized mother-of-pearl small seconds display is located at 6 o’clock and emphasises the watch’s luxurious character. Thin baton-style hands in white gold indicate the hours, minutes, and seconds.
Movement
The Zenith G.F.J. is powered by the famous calibre 135, a COSC-certified hand-wound movement that was originally developed for chronometry competitions. The calibre takes its name from its diameter of 13 lines, i.e. 30 mm, which is the maximum size for competitions organised by the Neuchâtel Observatory in the wristwatch category, and its height of 5 mm.
With a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz) and an impressive power reserve of 72 hours, the movement with its decentralised mainspring wheel pays homage to the precision and reliability of the historical version, but implements modern improvements such as a Breguet balance spring and a stop-seconds mechanism. The double arrow-shaped regulator characteristic of the calibre 135-O has also been adopted for precise time setting.
In addition, the dial’s ‘brick’ aesthetic is repeated as guilloché work on the bridges. While the mainspring barrel is adorned with a circular pattern, the crown wheel is black-polished.
Straps
The G.F.J. comes with three straps: a dark blue alligator leather strap, a black calfskin strap and a blue ‘Saffiano’ calfskin strap, each with a platinum pin buckle. An optional seven-row platinum bracelet with a brick pattern on the centre links and double folding clasp can be purchased on request and perfectly matches the watch’s elegant aesthetics.
Price & availability of the Zenith G.F.J.
The Zenith G.F.J. is available in a limited edition of 160 pieces and costs 52,900 euros. Interested parties can pre-order the watch exclusively in Zenith boutiques, online shops, or at authorised dealers worldwide.
Out of the 60 watch brands attending Watches and Wonders, from highly anticipated horological giants like Patek Philippe to independent geniuses like Christiaan van der Klaauw, Van Cleef & Arpels is a booth that journalists and retailers alike particularly look forward to visiting. It’s not just because of the brand’s inevitably enchanting stand design; watchmaker…
The new collection of the Swiss brand Audemars Piguet was firstly presented in Geneva on the SIHH 2019. In total six new models were introduced, among others the Tourbillon Openworked and the Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon. Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet – Tourbillon Openworked Ref. 26600OR.OO.D002CR.01 The models of this new collection have a round case with an octagonal…
Audemars Piguet expands its Code 11.59 collection with two new models in stainless steel. These timepieces feature a grey dial and strap, complemented by the brand’s signature "Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50" accents. Available in both Selfwinding and Selfwinding Chronograph versions, these watches showcase the collection’s unique design and meticulous craftsmanship. Let’s take a closer look…
Blancpain has added two unique additions to its most classic collection in the form of a new Villeret Quantième Complet and a Villeret Ultraplate. Both wristwatches are housed in an 40mm 18-carat red-gold case and – for the first time – the red-gold material of the cases, Roman numerals and sage leaf-shaped hands have been…
The Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite introduces a dial crafted from genuine meteorite to the collection, combining it with the technical hallmark of the El Primero – the ability to measure time intervals to one-tenth of a second. At the same time, it draws on historically rooted elements such as the Tri-Compax layout of the subsidiary…
About 220 years ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet received the patent for his invention of the tourbillon. To mark the occasion, the Manufacture presents the Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Anniversaire 5365, a watch that focuses on this achievement and pays homage to the brand's history with elaborate decorations. In keeping with the total of only 35 tourbillon…
Nestled away amongst deep red hearts, gold thorns and shiny green leaves, Louis Vuitton reveals its latest innovative timepiece for women: the amorous Tambour Fiery Heart Automata. With its sparkling diamond-set crown and spinning tourbillon, the automaton timepiece certainly shows Louis Vuitton's La Fabrique du Temps artisanal and watchmaking abilities at their absolute finest. An…
Cartier has introduced its newest addition to the Santos-Dumont collection. The new Cartier Santos-Dumont XL uses a mechanical movement – a first for the otherwise quartz-powered collection. Additionally, the watch's case measures 46.6 mm x 33.9 mm – making it the largest model in the line. The watch is available in three different case variations.…
Cartier has introduced a quartet of engraved Santos-Dumont limited editions. The watch is best known for being the first pilot's watch in the world. The new models are now powered by a mechanical movement. Furthermore, they feature engravings with the original plans of Santos-Dumont, as the famous pilot – and Parisian fashion icon – worked…
Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a new interpretation of the Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362. The watch comes in a five-piece limited edition with a deep midnight-blue sunray dial. The watch was first introduced in 2014 and is now being released in a new version to mark the tenth anniversary. The watch is still the thinnest minute repeater…
Audemars Piguet is introducing five new Royal Oak models, all with green dials. In addition to a "Jumbo" with a platinum case, the manufacture is launching a Selfwinding Chronograph with a gold case and three Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models. With the exception of the "Jumbo", all of these watches are strictly limited – in some…
At this year's Watches and Wonders, Vacheron Constantin is proving that green remains in favour with the addition of two captivating Overseas models in olive-green and pink-gold. For those who are less about the glamour and more about technical feats, fear not. Vacheron is also introducing a titanium Overseas tourbillon edition into its main collection.…
In a vibrant combination of bold orange and radiant sky blue, Hublot introduces the Big Bang Unico Summer 2025, adding another facet to its iconic collection launched in 2005. Early June saw the Maison celebrate summer on Mykonos with the unveiling of this colourful limited edition, attended by notable guests, including brand ambassador Usain Bolt…