At this year’s Watches & Wonders, Tudor is presenting new variations of its Black Bay series, which first launched in 2012 and has been equipped with a manufacture movement since 2016. The new additions include a GMT model, a Black Bay 58 in full yellow gold, a new monochrome version with a METAS certified movement, and a chronograph with a pink dial.
Although the new Black Bay models may differ in materials and colours, they share a common design. The case and dial draw inspiration from the 1950s Tudor diving watches. All models are equipped with a square hour hand in the iconic ‘snowflake’ shape, a ‘lollipop’ hand for the seconds, and a screw-down crown. The latter is without crown guard, but engraved with a Tudor rose in relief. In addition, all cases are water-resistant to a depth of 200 metres and coated with Super-LumiNova for better readability.
Set in a 41 mm case made of polished stainless steel with a slimmer profile, this Black Bay distinguishes itself through its monochrome design. The interplay between the metal and the black of the bezel and dial conjures up the monochrome aesthetics. The black, fluted stainless-steel bezel is unidirectional and has a 60-minute graduation with silver-coloured accents.
This silver accentuation can also be found on the slightly curved satin dial with a sunray finish. It features rhodium-plated indices, as well as the model’s characteristic snowflake hands and a second hand in lollipop design. In addition, the crown’s new positioning means that the crown tube is no longer visible. Thus, the crown better resembles the curves of historic Tudor timepieces.
The manufacture calibre MT5602-U powers the Black Bay. It displays the hours, minutes and seconds, and has a power reserve of 70 hours. The latter, together with precision, water resistance of 200 metres, and resistance to magnetic fields, has been certified as a ‘Master Chronometer’ by METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. Lettering on the bridges represents this certification. Moreover, like all Tudor manufacture movements, the calibre bears a sun laser design as well as alternating sandblasted and polished surfaces on the bridges and the main plate. The timepiece is available with a three-link, riveted stainless steel bracelet for 4,430 euros or with a five-link stainless steel bracelet for 4,540 euros. If you opt for a black rubber strap, the price is 4,220 euros.
In comparison, the Black Bay 58 GMT has a smaller 39 mm and a bidirectional bezel. The upper half of the bezel is black, while the lower half is burgundy. Unlike the monochrome Black Bay, the accents here are gilt instead of silvery. Thus, the subtly curved gilt numerals on the bezel’s 24-hour graduation and the gilt indices and hands on the black sun-brushed dial, which is also slightly curved here, stand out. The jumping hands are central.
Inside the timepiece, the manufacture calibre MT5450-U movement with a power reserve of 65 hours oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz. The movement enables the display of the hours, minutes, seconds, and the GMT function. At 3 o’clock, there is an instantaneous date display without non-correction range. Thanks to the stop-seconds, the wearer can set the time precisely.
Like all of Tudor’s in-house movements, this one is decorated with the typical radial design, sandblasted surfaces, and has a skeletonised rotor made of a tungsten monoblock. It also embellished with the METAS certification engraving and has been tested by COSC. While the model with a three-row, riveted stainless steel bracelet costs 4,590 euros, the price for the Ref. 7939G1A0NRU with a black rubber strap is 4,380 euros. Both versions are equipped with a ‘T-fit’ clasp with a rapid length adjustment system for an individual fit on the wrist.
As the first Tudor diving watch made of solid 18 carat yellow gold with a transparent caseback, the Black Bay 58 18K is a true novelty in the collection. Its name is not only based on the precious metal, but also serves as a homage to 1958. In that year, the first Tudor diving watch (Ref. 7924) with a water-resistance of up to 200 meters entered the market.
The 39 mm yellow gold case reveals the in-house calibre MT5400 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours through its sapphire crystal caseback. It provides the hours, minutes, and seconds, which are indicated via a central hand on the gold-green dial. By making use of the stop-seconds, the wearer can set the exact time. Additionally, the COSC-certified movement’s aesthetics are in accordance with all other Tudor manufacture movements.
Of course, the satin-finished three-link bracelet is also made of matching matt 18-carat gold and features a ‘T-fit’ clasp. Thus, the model celebrates another premiere as the first Tudor diving watch with a rapid adjustment system. This means that the bracelet can be extended by five positions and up to a length of 8 mm without any aid. A ceramic ball bearing helps secure the bracelet on the wrist. The timepiece is available for 32,000 euros.
The limited-edition Tudor Black Bay Pink Chrono features a refreshing new dial colour in bright pink. The satin-finished and polished 41 mm stainless steel case with a matching, fixed bezel, and a black anodized aluminum insert set the stage. Meanwhile, the indices on the insert’s tachymeter scale are silver.
To operate the chronograph, two screw-in pushers are placed above and below the crown at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock. Furthermore, the round, black counters match the colour of the aluminium insert. They are recessed and provide a nice contrast to the otherwise entirely pink dial. The 45-minute counter is integrated at 3 o’clock, the date display at 6 o’clock, and the small seconds are at 9 o’clock.
At the heart of the watch, the chronograph calibre MT5813 with a power reserve of 70 hours beats at a frequency of 4 Hz. The Black Bay Pink Chrono mechanical movement is based on the Breitling 01 calibre and integrates a regulating organ developed by Tudor. The COSC-certified movement features the typical Tudor decorations.
