They love watches and make no secret of it. Our horology experts Philippe and Alexander talk about their favourite subject: Patek Philippe.
Alexander: We both had the pleasure of attending the launch of the new Patek Philippe ‘Cubitus’ models in Munich last week. The excitement couldn’t have been greater. All around the world, but also directly at the launch – including collectors who said they would never have come if they had known that such a collection would be presented. Which, of course, is not true – they would have come even if Thierry Stern had invited them to the presentation of the latest Patek Philippe tie. Wouldn’t they?
Philippe: Sure. The whole thing just fits in with our times. This storm in a teacup and this enthusiasm for destruction. Ultimately, there are two camps: some people love the ‘Cubitus’, others don’t. Although, I have the impression that many don’t like them mainly because they can stand out from the mainstream and elevate themselves above others. In my opinion, however, the excitement surrounding the watch was short-lived and the antipathy – at least on social media – has now turned towards Thierry Stern.
Alexander: Which is ultimately completely nonsensical. He essentially said: ‘I own the company, I believe in the watch, that’s why we’re making it – and by the way, we’re talking about three new models here – in a catalogue of more than 150 references. We’re already selling them. For those who don’t want them: noone is forcing you.’ He could, perhaps, have expressed the whole thing a little more delicately, but to be honest, it is precisely this self-confident attitude of the Stern family business that makes the brand so charming for many people. I observed him myself in one of the ‘Cubitus’ interviews, and there was nothing that couldn’t be asked. Other brands would have handled this very differently in a CEO interview, and I found it incredibly casual and powerful. But now, to the watch: what do you think of it now, with a little distance from the excitement of the first few days?
Philippe: First of all, I think it fits the brand perfectly. I also really like the fact that it’s so polarising at the same time – that’s wonderful in our sometimes very slippery world. I’ve also seen the watch ‘in the wild’. It’s the same when worn, and anyone interested in design will recognise it. One owner told me that he was approached four times in three hours about his ‘Cubitus’. I was also able to take a closer look at it, and I think it’s a really good size and very comfortable to wear. For many, the watch is a square, larger version of the ‘Nautilus’. If you look at it that way and compare it with the Royal Oak and its sister line Royal Oak Offshore from Audemars Piguet, for example, then the latter is also beautiful, but a much heavier and more solid piece.
Alexander: Although you have to take the platinum ‘Cubitus’ out of this comparison, it also has a certain weight.
Philippe: That’s true. But overall, I think all three watches are very successful. Did Patek Philippe play it safe with the design? I suppose so. But would it have been appropriate for the brand to go completely different ways? I hardly think so.
Alexander: Yes, I have a similar view. If you think in terms of H. Moser & Cie. or Ressence, then the more organic, radical shape of the case in the style of a ‘Streamliner’ or a ‘Type 1’ would certainly have been a break. Also, if you argue it the other way round: at Rolex, a ‘Submariner’ doesn’t look so insanely different from a ‘GMT-Master II’ or a ‘Yacht-Master’. Nevertheless, they are considered different collections within the sports models.
Philippe: But they were presented in different, less exciting times. Does the use of round calibres in the square case shape bother you?
Alexander: No. If it had been a very small calibre in a very large case, it probably would have. But as nice as a square movement would have been from a collector’s point of view, I understand that the round shape of the 240 PS CI J LU also leaves the option of using it in other lines open.
Philippe: Exactly. As a small independent label, you can think and calculate like that, and it’s very popular in the niche market. But that’s not Patek Philippe! Despite all the demands on quality and craftsmanship, they continue to develop calibres and generally use them for different models and often for generations of new models, which simply makes good business sense. I’m pretty sure that the large date with instantaneous jumping display is just the beginning, and will make its way from the ‘Cubitus’ into the rest of the collection.
Alexander: There is a direct photographic comparison on social media at Swisswatches Magazine: Nautilus 5711 with green dial versus Cubitus 5821/1A with green dial. Assuming you had to make a decision: how would you choose?
Philippe: Essentially, I think it’s cool that those who weren’t able to get one in the last round of the ‘5711’ can now hope for a green ‘Cubitus’. The new one is different, but not soooo different. If both were lying next to each other in my safe, I would almost certainly choose the ‘Cubitus’ more often. Honestly! I have the feeling that the watch first has to really catch on with customers and watch fans, because when you see it in real life you realise: it’s not loud in any way – on the contrary. It’s big, but not too big. It is simply a pretty perfect reference for many occasions. For me, the ‘Nautilus’ would be the watch for special occasions, also because it is and will remain the much rarer watch.
Alexander: Funny, I would look at it the other way round. For me, the green ‘Nautilus’ – if you ignore the rarity – would be the model that fits almost always and everywhere. The ‘Cubitus’, on the other hand, I see as the more blatant statement watch. This may be unfair to the timeless design of the ‘Nautilus’ by Gerald Genta, but it seems to me to be more of a ‘designer piece’ and a contemporary eye-catcher than the original. Perhaps also because it has become one of the most famous watch designs in the world.
Philippe: In my estimation, the level of affection for the new collection is already quite different from what it was at the presentation. It simply isn’t and won’t be an ‘entry-level Patek’, and on top of that, it will remain relatively rare. I have heard of several German concessionaires who have had several hundred enquiries each – and that was only the day after the premiere.
