Travelling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.
Ibn Battuta
The premiere of the Richard Mille Rally A’Shira from 16 to 21 October in Saudi Arabia can hardly be put into words. Echoing the description by 14th-century Muslim scholar Ibn Battuta, I was struck speechless by the vast expanse of the desert and the breathtaking starry nights of the Arabian Peninsula. Surely you’ve experienced such a moment yourself, and know what it’s like to need some time to take in all the awe-inspiring highlights after a trip. It’s also important to share your experiences with others. So let’s escape the cold, grey season together and embark on a journey from Medina to the Red Sea.
In keeping with tradition: Richard Mille and rallies
Before delving into this year’s rally, it’s worth taking a look at the event’s origins. After all, some people may already be wondering where watches come into play in a travelogue like this one. Anyone who is familiar with the world of watchmaking knows that the history of the watch industry is intricately linked to motorsport. Just think of Rolex and the Daytona, the Mille Miglia classic car rally, the Concours of Elegance, or the connection between Porsche and Porsche Design.
A broad portfolio of high-profile events for car enthusiasts
Richard Mille also has an extremely strong connection to automobiles. The design, choice of materials and functionality of the watches have strong links to cars. The brand is also passionately committed to motorsport and has already worked on joint projects with brands such as McLaren and Ferrari.
RM UP-01 Ferrari
Although the Swiss manufacture is still quite young compared to other major maisons, it has already positioned itself as a very important sponsor of the biggest events in motorsport during its 25-year history. Richard Mille is not only the main sponsor of The ICE St. Moritz, but also of the Nürburg Ring Classic and Le Mans Classic. The brand has been involved in the latter as a co-founder since 2002 and has been bringing out a colour-coordinated, limited special edition for the biennial classic car event since 2008.
Le Mans Classic 2023 and the accompanying RM 72-01 Le Mans Classic
It’s all family
The passion for motorsport is no coincidence. Since his youth, brand founder Richard Mille has harboured a fascination for cars and the mechanics behind them – influenced in part by his first visit to the Monaco Grand Prix in 1966. The fact that this passion is a family affair can also be seen in his daughter Amanda Mille. She is the brand’s Global Brand & Partnership Director and has herself taken part in the Rallye des Princesses Richard Mille, which has been held in France since 1999, on several occasions. With the A’Shira Rally this year, she has introduced the ‘natural extension of Richard Mille’s dedication to supporting women in motorsport’ – also a regularity rally with all-female teams.
Amanda Mille
Rally A’Shira premiere in the MENA region
Over the course of the decade, Richard Mille has already shown a considerable commitment to promoting women in motorsport by setting up its own racing teams and supporting female drivers such as Aurora Straus (USA). A rally in the MENA region is therefore only a logical consequence. The same applies to the choice of venue for the first event of its kind in this region: Saudi Arabia.
Since 2019, the country has not only opened up to visitors from all over the world, but also the local automotive world to women. As an important component of motorsport, a rally is naturally part of this and so Richard Mille has organised this important event with the support of the Kingdom through the Saudi Motorsport Company (SMC). The latter have already organised major motorsport events such as the Formula 1 STC Saudi Arabian Grand Prix and the Dakar Rally. As Amanda Mille aptly describes the significance of the rally, ‘It’s about creating a platform where women can challenge themselves and forge new paths. This all-female rally is all about determination, passion and human encounter.’
On the rooftops of Jeddah
To get in the mood for the days ahead, a get-together was held on the roof terrace of the Jeddah Edition Hotel. Against the backdrop of the marina of the dazzling city on the Red Sea, all forty participants of the rally came together for a cosy evening. The fact that the choice for a first dinner was not a dinner with a set table, but rather a BBQ, reflected the informal atmosphere throughout the trip. The ice is quickly broken. Accompanied by the Arabic sounds of a DJane set, tender chicken skewers and fluffy flatbread, many stimulating conversations ensue. It becomes clear that we are all united by a thirst for adventure, openness to new experiences, and a sense of anticipation for the days ahead. Some of us are already rally-experienced, but for many – including my team partner Kaja Kockritz from Ramp Magazine and myself – it will be our first rally.
How-to Rally on the high-speed train
The next morning, it’s time for the first day of the rally. First, we take the high-speed train to Medina. The city is not only the second most sacred city in the Islamic faith, but also the starting point of the Rally A’Shira. During the almost two-hour journey, we receive a short briefing on the structure and rules of a regularity rally.
This type of rally is not about being the fastest to reach the finish line. Instead, the aim is to fulfil certain parameters on the route. Any deviations from these will lead to penalty points. The most important means of orientation en route: the road book with the routes and directions including sketches and the odometer – navigation systems and technical aids are not permitted. It is therefore particularly important that the driver and co-driver are a well-rehearsed team. After all, both contribute equally to the success of the team.
The co-pilot’s job is to understand the instructions in the road book precisely and pass them on to the pilot; she is the navigator, so to speak, and also keeps an eye on the time. In addition, she must conscientiously ‘clear’ the partial kilometre count on the odometer after each completed directional instruction. The more precisely you can stick to the kilometres, the higher the score. Incidentally, cheating is not even an option thanks to the integrated geo-tracker, as the route travelled can be tracked precisely if required.
On the other hand, the points for fuel consumption, taking into account the speed limit, depend on the driver. This is because a large part of the rally takes place in normal road traffic. The view out of the train window already gives it away: the desert, mountains and many long, straight roads await us.
Day 1: 431 kilometres
Ready, Set, Go: the Rally A’Shira starts in Medina
After arriving at Medina’s state-of-the-art railway station, we set off straight away. As we step out of the air-conditioned halls into the midday sun, our team cars are waiting for us outside. Twenty Jeepers four-wheel drive vehicles are waiting for the rally teams from the Middle East, Asia and Europe. The car for our Swisswatches Magazine x Ramp Magazine team is easy to spot. It is a handsome dark green Jeep Wrangler, adapted to the desert with a cream-coloured leather interior and the lucky number: 14.
I take on the role of driver for our first stage to Khaybar. I’m already a little nervous when I start the engine. What will it be like to drive on the Saudi Arabian roads? All the teams roll up to the start gate of the rally one after the other, while the sound of upbeat songs fills the air through the open car windows. Before we pass through the gate, the marshals officially sign our time card with our team’s start time and tell us the arrival time at which we should reach our first destination.
We drive through the gate and onto the road, and soon we are heading towards our first multi-lane roundabout, a traffic element that is handled differently in every country. It’s a bit of an adventure to keep an overview here while you’re still getting used to the handling of the new car. The steering wheel is much more sensitive than I remember from my rather cumbersome Outlander, but that will have its advantages on tomorrow’s off-road route. On the other hand, the engine is already much louder at 60 km/h and, together with the size of the car and the high tyres, conveys a certain confidence on the road.
Off to Alula
Our route leads us out of the city and northwest through the mountains, showcasing a colourful interplay of rich sand and brown tones. Time and again we drive through settlements that appear brand new. From time to time, we spot camels nibbling on bushes on the plateau in the middle of the barren landscape. We cover a total of 170 kilometres until we reach our lunch spot and the marshals keep time.
It almost feels like a family outing as we all gather around the seating areas under the parasols and share our first impressions over lunch. Thanks to this short and the juicy smash burgers, we have fully recharged our batteries for the next stage with its 261 kilometres.
This time, it’s my turn to sit in the passenger seat with the road book in my hand. It’s all about your own interpretation and multitasking skills – always keeping a watchful eye on the odometer. The journey goes smoothly, almost meditatively, while the setting sun bathes the mountain landscape in a soft light.
Only shortly before reaching our destination do we feel an adrenaline rush on the streets of AlUla when we realize we misinterpreted a directional instruction. After this brief detour, we finally arrive at our destination for the day: the breathtaking Habitas Hotel AlUla.
It is an oasis of wellness and tranquillity in the middle of a desert valley bordered by unusual rock formations. The 96 villas surrounded by sand are reminiscent of Bedouin tents and blend seamlessly into their surroundings. Apart from the occasional electric hum of the buggies and e-bikes, you can experience an almost absolute silence here in the spacious resort, which is hard, nigh impossible, to find in the city.
Day 2: 143 kilometres
A dazzling travel companion
On the second day of the rally, one highlight follows the next. It all starts with the RM 07-01 WG, my travel companion on my wrist for the day. The official timepiece of the rally is the brand’s first women’s sports watch, the RM 07-04 Automatic Sport, but I am particularly fond of the diamond white gold model.
RM 07-04 Automatic Sport
The RM 07-01 WG is powered by the skeletonised automatic calibre CRMA2, which indicates the hours and minutes. Among other things, it has a base plate and bridges made of micro-blasted and electroplasma-treated grade 5 titanium and a balance wheel with a variable moment of inertia thanks to adjustable weights. The power reserve is approximately 50 hours.
The movement is framed by a white-gold case with a sapphire crystal back and Richard Mille’s signature screws, measuring 29.90 × 22.00 mm. Inside the case, the diamonds glitter around the anchor point of the hands and are arranged in a similar way to the tonneau shape of the case. The timepiece has an elegant and understated appearance despite the sparkling gemstones.
The light blue crocodile leather strap with double folding clasp picks up on the light colours of the diamonds and the white gold case, creating a harmonious overall look. Thanks to its typical, slightly convex shape, the timepiece moulds ergonomically to the wrist. No matter how I turn my wrist, the watch does not slip and after a few minutes of wearing it, I no longer feel its presence.
A world heritage site in the desert: Hegra
I start the day on the driver’s side again, with my sparkling travel companion strapped firmly onto my wrist once more. Our first destination is Saudi Arabia’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city of Hegra. But, as can be the case with rallies, things don’t always go according to plan. What was supposed to be a 20-kilometre route turned into a small odyssey, as the entire rally team got lost – and also encountered an unexpected breakdown in the sand. Despite a slight delay, we all make it to our meeting point in Hegra in the end.
We set off on a tour of the second largest central point for the Nabataeans, a north-west Arabian Bedouin people from the 1st millennium BC, in turquoise off-road vehicles with an open roof. If, like me, you’ve always wanted to see Petra in Jordan up close (Indiana Jones probably played a part in this), Hegra should also impress you.
The golden sand is covered with gigantic sandstone formations. Even before we arrive at our first sightseeing spot, we can make out facades embedded in the reddish rocks. The Nabataeans created more than 100 monumental rock tombs here.
Just standing in front of the entrance to one of these huge monuments takes your breath away in light of the size and craftsmanship of these buildings. Columns and staircase reliefs are carved into the stone.
You could certainly spend a whole day here, visiting the many impressive burial sites and deciphering the individual inscriptions in the rocks. However, there is still a lot on the programme, which is why we have to move on after our one-hour tour.
A lofty lunch
Our next stage takes us along serpentine roads higher and higher up a volcanic mountain to Harrat Viewpoint. We have arranged to have lunch together at the Okto Restaurant at the highest point in the region, in the middle of a lava field.
With the best views of the desert plateau with its unique rock formations, deep gorges and fertile oases, we indulge in the finest Mediterranean cuisine. Here, at lofty heights, the dimensions of the gigantic rock formations become even more apparent.
Action-packed afternoon
Dessert is followed by an automotive treat with an off-road experience. After 28 kilometres down the mountain, we reach the off-road track. Here on the sandy terrain, we can fully test the engine power and manoeuvrability of our Jeep by following dusty paths marked with flags.
Indeed, in addition to firm steering on the uneven ground, the challenge is also to maintain a clear view in the swirling dust of the cars in front. However, thanks to the wide track and no oncoming traffic, it is fortunately possible to drive parallel in places. Surrounded by the towering rock faces, the thrill of the ride makes you lose track of time – until we reach the end.
From there, it’s back to the usual road traffic to our next destination. We arrive at Elephant Rock just in time for sunset. As the name suggests, this is a remarkable, freestanding rock formation in the shape of an elephant. Both the trunk and the large, protruding ears can be clearly recognised here. The setting sun shines through the large gap between the trunk and the elephant’s body, casting a golden light on everything around us.
Beneath the stars
In the evening, we all gather for an open-air dinner. Today, sitting on large carpets, we savour something very special: chicken and lamb, cooked in the traditional Bedouin way in a pot buried in the sand for hours until the meat is soft as butter. It is a real treat for the senses, which we savour to the melodic sounds of a musician on an Arabian oud.
The brightest star in the sky: A’Shira
In addition to the warm light of the lamps, the full moon shines above us. After dinner, we have a rendezvous with this celestial body and the countless stars that can be seen here, far away from the dazzling lights of the city.
During the stargazing session, an astronomer shows us the different constellations of the stars and tells us the story behind their names. Thousands of years ago, the stars served as important landmarks for navigation. In order to better memorise the individual constellations and pass on the knowledge about the stars, people created gripping stories with great love stories and family tragedies.
This also applies to A’Shira, the namesake of our rally. In the western world, the brightest star in the night sky is known as ‘Sirius’. For more than 3,000 years, it has served as an important navigation point for journeys to the south. Unfortunately, we cannot see A’Shira in the night sky during our stargazing trip as the star has not yet risen. Instead, we can take a closer look at the moon’s craters with the help of telescopes.
Inspired by our stargazing, when I return to my Bedouin house I decide to explore the starry sky myself once again with the telescope in my room, despite the late hour. By the time I manage to catch the moon through the lens, A’Shira has appeared on the horizon below the Orion Belt. All alone, in the stillness of the night, I have to pause for a moment. What must it have been like to navigate by the stars without any maps back then?
Day 3: 278 kilometres
Final sprint to the Red Sea
It’s hard to believe that this day is already our last day of the rally. Before the starting signal for the last two stages with a total of 278 kilometres, my rally partner Kaja and I decided to explore the nearby Maraya Concert Hall. Although the largest mirrored building in the world is also impressive in the evening, in daylight you realise how much the landscape and the architecture flow into each other through the mirrored walls.
With its 9,740 square metres of shimmering, reflective exterior surfaces, the team of architects from Gió Forma has created a building for concerts and events that appears like a mirage when viewed from a distance. As the aesthetics of the building and its surroundings change depending on the incidence of light, you could lose yourself in the world of mirrors for quite some time. But time is short.
Our last destination on this exciting journey is the Red Sea, more precisely Turtle Bay. While the road initially takes us through the mountains and past camels and donkey families, the landscape opens up more and more after a short pit stop for lunch.
A short lunch break in the desert.
The ground becomes more even, flatter, and the roads here are endlessly straight. The mountains recede into the distance – or do they? To be honest, distances are sometimes difficult to judge with the naked eye. Many things appear closer or further, larger or smaller than they actually are. But one thing is certain: we are getting closer and closer to our destination.
Sooner than you think, you’re suddenly there. The sea breeze greets us through the open windows before we can even see the Red Sea. Turn left again and the white sandy beach of Turtle Bay unfolds before our eyes; behind it, the dark blue sea. To the sound of drums and the chanting of the traditional Saudi Arabian sword dance, performed on the beach by a group of singers in national costume, we drive through the finish line. We’ve made it.
It’s time to say goodbye to our dark green vehicle and switch to a boat. The award ceremony takes place at another extraordinary location, which provides a magnificent backdrop for the conclusion of this historic rally.
Visit to a different galaxy: welcome to Shebara
On a speedboat at sunset and with some swell, all that was missing was the iconic James Bond theme tune to provide the perfect musical accompaniment to our arrival at Shebara Resort. After a 45-minute drive, an island with white sandy beaches appears on the horizon. In front of it, futuristic-looking stainless steel pods float in the water, connected by an arched bridge construction on one side of the island.
It feels like we’ve landed on a distant planet and being among the resort’s first guests emphasises this surreal atmosphere. It’s hard to believe that we get to spend the next two days in one of the 38 water villas and 35 beach villas.
Its architecture is inspired by the water bubbles that rise to the surface when diving and reflects Shebaras’ concept of merging luxury and sustainability. Among other things, the resort is powered by its own solar system.
The extensive resort also includes four restaurants and a bar with non-alcoholic drinks. The gala evening begins with dinner in front of the Nikkei restaurant iki.roe overlooking the sea. It is the ceremonial end to a rally during which we were able to explore the scenic and cultural treasures of this country, which often appears so mysterious from the outside, in a very special way.
A very amusing, warm speech by Amanda Mille and Tilly Harrison (Richard Mille Managing Director Middle East & Türkiye) is followed by a video with many impressions from the last three days and the award ceremony. Although the experiences are still fresh, there is a sense of nostalgia. After all, we have all become very familiar with each other in such a short time and have shared many funny, adventurous and unique moments.
Together, we travelled 850 kilometres from Medina via AlUla to the Red Sea. As participants in this first rally edition, we wrote a piece of history and collected memories that we will certainly not forget in a hurry. Over the next two days, we rounded off the trip surrounded by palm trees, white sand and the diverse underwater world with its corals. We would love to stay longer on this remote, otherworldly planet.
But the next rally will not be long in coming round: the Rally A’Shira is to take place annually from now on and we can only look forward to next year with excitement, as Richard Mille has already exceeded all expectations with this inaugural event. This is not least due to the organising team, who have put together this event with an unrivalled attention to detail, and created an environment in which a sense of community and an inspiring exchange of ideas have been created.
The Rally A’Shira also offered deeper insights into Richard Mille’s understanding of the luxury lifestyle brand. Just like the watches, events of this kind also embody the (lifestyle) philosophy of a brand. Luxury is understood here as something exclusive – a small, intimate circle where people meet at eye level. It is about maintaining quality and comfort without standing still. Instead, innovation and a spirit of adventure are emphasised. All of this was demonstrated on the dynamic rally route in Saudi Arabia.
Swisswatches Magazine editor Emilia Hoth (left) and Ramp Magazine editor Kaja Kockritz (right)
Unfortunately, Team Swisswatches Magazine x Ramp Magazine did not emerge as the winners, but to our surprise, we made it to fifth place. Who knows – maybe we’ll win the title next year?
