Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin’s watchmaking expertise is undisputed. The manufacture has been demonstrating this expertise since 1755 – that’s right: for 270 years, without interruption. The mastery of masterful complications goes hand in hand with the pursuit of beauty. There is no doubt that many people consider a mechanical movement to be an aesthetic sight in itself, especially when it has been skilfully decorated – and this should not be disputed. Vacheron Constantin also always creates an artistic and creative counterpart to its technical aesthetics. This can sometimes be truly opulent, as in the Métiers d’Art collection. But the manufacture is also a master of minimalist design, as in the Patrimony line.
The limited, three-part anniversary edition of the Traditionnelle is a slightly different story. Here, Vacheron Constantin celebrates two of the manufacture’s historic milestones: the skeletonised dial and the retrograde display. Across three models, this proves that the boundary between a watch and a work of art is fluid.
With the trio, the manufacture is also following its own path, where the brand’s first watch with a skeletonised dial from 1918 – a pocket watch with an astronomical calendar – has already inspired several models with various complications. However, renewed skeletonisation editions remained rather rare.
“This type of dial was not revisited until 2002, when we wanted to make the sophisticated mechanics of the retrograde display recognisable in a limited edition interpretation of reference 47245. With today’s 270th anniversary watches, we want to emphasise the architectural strength of our movements and reveal their inner beauty by making full use of our expertise in finishing,” explains Christian Selmoni, Style & Heritage Director at Vacheron Constantin.
As early as 1940, the company presented a wristwatch with a retrograde display for the date. This innovation at the time was nicknamed Don Pancho, but quickly disappeared from the scene and was not to reappear at auction until 2019.
Credit © Phillips
Vacheron Constantin had previously launched another retrograde model, the Mercator, in 1994, which featured this complication twice, for minutes and hours. This was followed by the reference 47245 with retrograde date for the 245th anniversary.
Credit © Sothebys
25 years later, the creative minds have once again succumbed to the fascination of retrograde motion – the true meaning of the word. The three anniversary models, each limited to 370 pieces, also share the 41 mm 950 platinum case with the stepped lugs and fluted back typical of Vacheron Constantin.
They also share a skeletonised character that reveals and celebrates the hand-decorated beauty of the mechanics. They are all worn on a hand-stitched alligator leather strap with large square scales.
Yes, it is a monster of a word that gives it its name. But it is absolutely justified and delivers what it promises. Although the reference designation 4030T/000P-H054 is significantly shorter, it is also far more sober and does not really reflect the fascinating range of this timepiece.
First and foremost, there is the new self-winding manufacture calibre, whose name is no more elegant, but which must be mentioned due to its chronicler’s duty: 2460 QPR31/270. 312 components, a 40-hour power reserve, a Côte Unique ornamental cut and a commemorative signature for the 270th anniversary – not to mention two complications.
The first is the perpetual calendar with day of the week, month and switching cycle, which does not need to be corrected until the year 2100. This is supplemented by the moonphase display at 6 o’clock, which takes into account the actual length of a lunar cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. This only needs to be corrected every 122 years.
The second complication is, of course, retrograde and in this case concerns the date. It is positioned in the upper, closed half of the hand-guilloché 18-carat gold dial. The lower part, on the other hand, reveals the full splendour of the technology and refined mechanics. The anniversary design is rounded off by the 270-year motif with the Maltese cross, the emblem of Vacheron Constantin since 1880. The price is 123,000 EUR.
The automatic manufacture calibre 2162 R31/270 sets the pace. It consists of 242 individual parts and operates at a leisurely 18,000 vibrations per hour, which allows for a generous power reserve of 72 hours.
Due to the peripherally installed gold oscillating weight, the calibre measures just 6.35 millimetres in height. The multilevel, openworked and hand-guilloché dial in 18-carat gold, also adorned with the brand’s Maltese cross motif, extends above it. The tourbillon with small seconds is presented at 6 o’clock and the retrograde date in the upper section. The price is 215,000 EUR.
The 2460 QCL/270 in this timepiece is a modern version of the 2450 calibre and was the first automatic version of a full calendar to be developed entirely in-house by Vacheron Constantin.
In addition to the full calendar with a central hand for the date and windows for the day of the week and month, this also provides the moonphase display with maximum precision, meaning that the latter only needs to be readjusted every 122 years. Here, too, you can proudly see the inner workings of the 312-component movement, which offers a 40-hour power reserve. The price is 75,500 EUR.
