Alongside the news that Rolex is increasing the size of its new-generation Submariner models, the horology house has also decided to go large on its 2020 Oyster Perpetual watches, which are now available in 41 mm for the first time. What’s more, Rolex has made space for the seven sizeable new watches by bidding goodbye to its 39 mm models. Finally, the icing on the top of the cake is the inclusion of a vivid and upbeat new range of dial colours.
41 mm 39 mm (discontinued)
The Case
The fact that Rolex has increased the size of its entry-level watch by 2 mm certainly makes the watch more contemporary by responding to the demand for larger watches. Furthermore, it’s possible that, similar to the new 41 mm Submariner Date and no date editions, Rolex is exploring how to improve wearer comfort. In any case, the new size will most likely be welcomed by men who like to wear watches that measure no less than 40 mm.
The Dials
The first thing to acknowledge is that Rolex is clearly hopping onto a trend with the models’ brightly coloured dials. We’ve seen them numerous times in the past few months, just recently from the likes of Carl F. Bucherer presenting a whole new range of colorful watches. As well as more conservative silver, blue, or black sunray dials, the new Rolex 41 mm Oyster Perpetuals are also available in lacquered dials with coral red, turquoise blue, green, or yellow dials. Unsurprisingly, they’re beautiful colours – some of which we’ve seen before – that sit well with the Oystersteel case and matching Oyster bracelet.
While the idea is not exactly unique, the appeal of this bright collection of new watches is that they are Rolex Oyster Perpetuals. The inclusion of an array of fun, cheerful dials is, after all, much-needed and may also create a wider audience by appealing to those wanting a less traditional-looking Rolex. Furthermore, the fact that the majority of the Oyster Perpetual 41 mm watches are more quirky in colour – and have switched to blue Chromalight – brings a more eye-catching touch to the brand’s least conspicuous but much-loved line.
Indeed, as with the increased case size, it is surprising that the Oyster Perpetual watches are becoming more conspicuous – hopefully not affecting their easygoing, more modest feel. On a separate note, all of the dials of the 2020 Oyster Perpetual models (in all sizes) incorporate a design feature that definitely distinguishes them from the Datejust; double-dash indices at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock.
By contrast, the now-extinct 39 mm models had only single indices. Indices can be a real point of contention – most likely Rolex has decided to change to double indices to clearly distinguish this line from the Datejust models and with the Oyster Perpetual to clearly define its entry level piece. However, the double indices arguably diminish the Oyster Perpetual’s elegant design.
The Movement
The 41 mm Oyster Perpetual models are powered by Rolex’s calibre 3230, which was first introduced earlier this year, and is already a very important movement for the brand. The self-winding mechanical movement led to the filing of several patents, and offers a solid 70-hour power reserve.
Furthermore, the calibre 3230 incorporates the horology house’s patented Chronergy escapement. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is insensitive to magnetic fields, enhancing the movement’s reliability. Also, the movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, which is up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. Additionally, the hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring regularity in any position. Finally, the calibre’s oscillator is fitted on the brand’s in-house, patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, thus increasing shock resistance.
The inclusion of this movement is highly significant, given that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual hasn’t seen a calibre update in years. Furthermore, the Oyster Perpetual is ultimately an entry-level Rolex model, making it an incredible bang for the buck given the comparatively low price of the watch and the high quality of the movement.
The Verdict
Ultimately, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 mm models really do bring a new feeling to the line. Not only are they bright (as are the new 36 mm models), but also, they incorporate an excellent movement for an entry-level model. The controversy primarily lies in the size, which, like the dial colours, seems to be a premeditated, financially motivated decision to follow current watch trends.
However, the watches do somewhat transform the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line from being almost enchantingly low-key and elegant into a something much more noticeable. While the noticeably different new design and calibre of the 41 mm models create both eye-popping and overall more contemporary pieces, they do undoubtedly diminish the charm of the horology house’s classic entry-level watch. Nevertheless, there’s certainly no doubt that the ambitious new models will sell – and fast.
Price: 5,350 euros for all new 41 mm models.