Rolex is extending its GMT-Master II range with a new version in ‘Oystersteel’, equipped with a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a 24-hour graduated two-colour Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic. The lugs and sides of its Oyster case have been redesigned, and the watch is fitted on a five-link Jubilee bracelet. Two other versions of the GMT-Master II introduce 18 ct Everose gold to the range for the first time. The first is crafted entirely from this alloy, and the second is available in an ‘Everose Rolesor’ version, combining ‘Oystersteel’ and 18 ct Everose gold. On the dials of both watches, the name “GMT-Master II” is inscribed in powdered rose. The bezels are fitted with two-colour Cerachrom inserts in a black and brown ceramic.
These new versions are equipped with the new calibre 3285. The movement is equipped with a Chronergy escapement and guarantees a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. Like all Rolex watches, the new versions of the GMT-Master II carry the “Superlative Chronometer” certification.
One instrument for several timezones
Originally it was designed to aid airline pilots in their navigation. Over the years its bezel has been presented in various colours, in both single and two-coloured combinations. With a traditional hour, minute and seconds display via hands; a 24-hour hand; and a bidirectional rotatable bezel with a 24-hour graduated Cerachrom insert, it is possible to read the time in two time zones at once: either the local time and a reference time, or the local time and another time zone as desired. The date, shown at 3 o’clock, is synchronized with the local time display.
High Technology Ceramic
Since 2005, Rolex has specialized on the development and production of special ceramic. For the monobloc bezels and bezel inserts special ceramics were developed, which are resistant to scratches and corrosion, and offer colours that are unaffected by ultraviolet rays. These ceramics can be created in single colours as well as two-colour versions. The Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic is the most iconic of these, as it calls to mind the colours chosen for the first GMT-Master, launched in 1955.
The Oyster case
The GMT-Master II’s Oyster case guarantees waterproofness to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Its middle case, with an integral crown guard, is crafted from a solid block of ‘Oystersteel’ or 18 ct Everose gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The winding crown, fitted with the Triplock triple waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal, with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date, is made of scratchproof sapphire.
The perpetual calibre 3285
These GMT-Master II watches are equipped with the new calibre 3285 entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. This self-winding mechanical movement calibre 3285 offers precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. It incorporates the Chronergy escapement. Made of nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is also insensitive to magnetic interference. An optimized blue Parachrom hairspring is fitted to the oscillator. Manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy, it is up to 10 times more precice than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. A Rolex overcoil ensures its regularity in any position. Calibre 3285 is equipped with a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor. Due to its new barrel architecture and the escapement the power reserve of calibre 3285 extends to approximately 70 hours.
Jubilee and Oyster bracelets
The new GMT-Master II with the Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic is fitted on an ‘Oystersteel’ Jubilee bracelet. The five-link Jubilee bracelet was created specially for the Oyster Perpetual Date, just at its launch in 1945. The 18 ct Everose gold and ‘Everose Rolesor’ versions are fitted on solid-link Oyster bracelets. The 18 ct Everose gold bracelet includes ceramic inserts. On the ‘Everose Rolesor’ version, the centre links of the bracelet are in 18 ct Everose gold, and the outer links are in ‘Oystersteel’. All three bracelets have a concealed attachment system. They are equipped with an ‘Oysterlock’ safety clasp to prevent accidental opening, and feature the Easylink rapid extension system, that allows the wearer to increase the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. This system was patented by Rolex in 1996.
The Rolex Deepsea is covered by a „Superlative Chronometer“ certification redefined by Rolex in 2015. This designation testifies that each watch has undergone a series of tests conducted by Rolex in its own laboratories according to its own criteria. The certification applies to the fully assembled watch, after casing the movement guaranteeing performance on the wrist in terms of precision, power reserve, waterproofness and self-winding. The precision of a Rolex Chronometer after casing is of the order of −2 /+2 seconds per day. The “Superlative Chronometer” status is symbolized by the green seal that comes with every Rolex watch and is coupled with an international five-year guarantee.