When Carbon meets Gold: Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar

Platinum, steel, ceramic or gold – Bulgari’s award-winning Octo Finissimo collection encompasses models made of all kinds of materials. Now, two carbon models with ultra-thin calibres have become its newest additions, enriching the collection. The design of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic with small seconds and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calendar combines anthracite-coloured carbon with touches of gold.

Anthracite Lightness – the case 

Both Octo Finissimo CarbonGold models have an anthracite-coloured carbon case with a matt finish, which is reminiscent of marble. If you look at the two models from the front, they are particularly distinguished by the shape of their carbon bezel: an octagon with rounded corners. When you turn the watch, you can observe the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its carbon frame bears golden screws that match the colour of the movement and are embedded in a circle. The watch can be adjusted via a crown on the right side of the case made of polished rose gold with a black ceramic inlay.

Since it consists of high-tech material, the 40 mm-case for both models is not only ultra-thin but also very light. However, the height of the case varies from model to model. While the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic case is 6.9 mm high, the case of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calendar measures 7.6 mm in height. In addition, both versions are water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres.

Touches of gold – the dial

Adding touches of gold to high-tech materials is a design dates back 30 years at Bulgari. The design of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold dials bears witness to this. Although the models differ in their functions and, accordingly, in the precise design of their dials, they share the same basic design. Like the case, the dial is made of anthracite-coloured carbon. Both timepieces indicate the hours and minutes. The hands and indices of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic are gold-plated, while those of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar are rose gold-plated.

Differences between the models 

The dials differ in the appearance of their time representations due to their functions. On the Automatic, only the numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock are represented as such. The hour circle and the small seconds between 7 and 8 o’clock, on the other hand, are without numerals and instead inscribed with gold-plated bars. The hour indices of the Perpetual Calendar are rose-gold bars, while numerals and abbreviations represent the other time indications. As the focus is set on the function of the perpetual calendar, it takes up a large part of the dial. The retrograde date display spans a semicircle from 9, via 12 to 3 o’clock. The days of the week are arranged in a circle on the left side of the dial between 7 and 8 o’clock, while the months are on the right side between 4 and 5 o’clock. The retrograde leap year is indicated by a small semicircle at 6 o’clock.

The movement – Calibre BVL 138 und 305 

The predecessor models Octo Finissimo Automatic and Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar have won awards in 2017 and 2021 for their ultra-thin movements. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold variants also standout because of their extremely thin manufacture movements with automatic winding and a rose gold-plated platinum micro rotor. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic calibre BVL 138 is only 2.23 mm high, while the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calender calibre BVL 305 is barely thicker at a height of 2.75 mm.

Both movements have a power reserve of 60 hours and oscillate at a frequency of 3 Hz. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar is highly durable and does not need to be reset until 2100.  Not only are the technical details of the movements visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, but also the delicate guilloché decorations: the bridges are made of rose gold with Côtes de Genève-stripes and individual components are decorated with Perlage.

Strap, price, and availability 

Both watches are equipped with an integrated bracelet made of carbon, although the closing mechanisms differ. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic has a three-blade folding clasp, whereas the folding clasp of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar is made of DLC steel. The two models also differ in price. The model with the small seconds costs 29,000 euros. The timepiece with the perpetual calendar is available for 100,000 euros.

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