When Carbon meets Gold: Bulgari Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic and Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar
Platinum, steel, ceramic or gold – Bulgari’s award-winning Octo Finissimo collection encompasses models made of all kinds of materials. Now, two carbon models with ultra-thin calibres have become its newest additions, enriching the collection. The design of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic with small seconds and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calendar combines anthracite-coloured carbon with touches of gold.
Anthracite Lightness – the case
Both Octo Finissimo CarbonGold models have an anthracite-coloured carbon case with a matt finish, which is reminiscent of marble. If you look at the two models from the front, they are particularly distinguished by the shape of their carbon bezel: an octagon with rounded corners. When you turn the watch, you can observe the movement through the sapphire crystal caseback. Its carbon frame bears golden screws that match the colour of the movement and are embedded in a circle. The watch can be adjusted via a crown on the right side of the case made of polished rose gold with a black ceramic inlay.
Since it consists of high-tech material, the 40 mm-case for both models is not only ultra-thin but also very light. However, the height of the case varies from model to model. While the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic case is 6.9 mm high, the case of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calendar measures 7.6 mm in height. In addition, both versions are water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres.
Touches of gold – the dial
Adding touches of gold to high-tech materials is a design dates back 30 years at Bulgari. The design of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold dials bears witness to this. Although the models differ in their functions and, accordingly, in the precise design of their dials, they share the same basic design. Like the case, the dial is made of anthracite-coloured carbon. Both timepieces indicate the hours and minutes. The hands and indices of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic are gold-plated, while those of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar are rose gold-plated.
Differences between the models
The dials differ in the appearance of their time representations due to their functions. On the Automatic, only the numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock are represented as such. The hour circle and the small seconds between 7 and 8 o’clock, on the other hand, are without numerals and instead inscribed with gold-plated bars. The hour indices of the Perpetual Calendar are rose-gold bars, while numerals and abbreviations represent the other time indications. As the focus is set on the function of the perpetual calendar, it takes up a large part of the dial. The retrograde date display spans a semicircle from 9, via 12 to 3 o’clock. The days of the week are arranged in a circle on the left side of the dial between 7 and 8 o’clock, while the months are on the right side between 4 and 5 o’clock. The retrograde leap year is indicated by a small semicircle at 6 o’clock.
The movement – Calibre BVL 138 und 305
The predecessor models Octo Finissimo Automatic and Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar have won awards in 2017 and 2021 for their ultra-thin movements. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold variants also standout because of their extremely thin manufacture movements with automatic winding and a rose gold-plated platinum micro rotor. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic calibre BVL 138 is only 2.23 mm high, while the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calender calibre BVL 305 is barely thicker at a height of 2.75 mm.
Both movements have a power reserve of 60 hours and oscillate at a frequency of 3 Hz. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar is highly durable and does not need to be reset until 2100. Not only are the technical details of the movements visible through the sapphire crystal caseback, but also the delicate guilloché decorations: the bridges are made of rose gold with Côtes de Genève-stripes and individual components are decorated with Perlage.
Strap, price, and availability
Both watches are equipped with an integrated bracelet made of carbon, although the closing mechanisms differ. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic has a three-blade folding clasp, whereas the folding clasp of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar is made of DLC steel. The two models also differ in price. The model with the small seconds costs 29,000 euros. The timepiece with the perpetual calendar is available for 100,000 euros.
Matthias Breschan, the CEO of Longines – one of the most successful watch brands in the Swatch Group – travelled from Zurich to Sylt, Germany's northernmost island, especially for this day. The occasion was the brand's new pop-up installation, taking place at the seaside resort of Kampen this summer. We took the opportunity to meet…
Angelus presents two new editions of the Instrument de Vitesse. The Indianapolis and Silverstone editions feature a 39 mm steel case, a manual winding movement with a one-minute chronograph, and a tachymetric scale. Both watches are produced in a limited edition of 25 pieces and come with a matching nubuck strap. Case The case of…
Blancpain is introducing a third timepiece to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms this year. Limited to 555 pieces, the Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3 pays homage to the MIL-SPEC used by the US Navy. Developed under the leadership of Blancpain's then Co-Director General and avid diver Jean-Jacques Fichter, Blancpain's original Fifty…
With the Classics Première Salmon, Frédérique Constant presents a new model that is exclusively available in Europe. The watch features a 38.5 mm stainless steel case and a striking salmon-coloured dial with Arabic numerals. Inside lies the automatic FC-301 calibre, visible through the transparent case back. This timepiece combines traditional watchmaking with contemporary design elements.…
Zenith expands its Chronomaster Sport collection with a new gemstone-set white gold model. The Chronomaster Sport Rainbow merges the functionality of a chronograph with the luxury of a colourful gemstone-set bezel. Following the rose gold version launched last year, this watch showcases Zenith's mastery in blending fine watchmaking with exquisite gem-setting. Case The case of…
IWC Schaffhausen is extending its Portugieser collection by introducing the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40. The model bases itself on the well-known design of the Ref. 325 from the 1930s. Therefore, the small seconds are placed at 6 o'clock. Furthermore, the case is only available in 40 mm. Additionally, IWC is introducing two new 42…
In a world where every second is meticulously counted, Hermès presents the Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu, a watch that challenges the conventional understanding of time. Originally introduced in 2011, the "Time suspended" complication has been a playful emblem of Hermès, inviting wearers to appreciate the present moment by pausing the relentless march of time.…
Patek Philippe is introducing its first wristwatch to focus on a Grande Sonnerie complication – the Patek Philippe 6301P-001 Grande Sonnerie. It features a striking mechanism that automatically sounds the full hours and quarter hours. It also integrates a Petite Sonnerie, a minute repeater and patented jumping small seconds. Only four watchmakers at Patek Philippe…
The Geneva-based manufacturer is presenting the TUDOR Pelagos 39, a new addition to its collection of diver's watches. With the new model, the house offers its professional range in a new, more compact form factor. The new Pelagos, however, has a cosmopolitan look with a shiny black sunburst dial. The titanium-cased watch is also equipped…
Patek Philippe is renowned for the sound quality of its minute repeaters. The manufacture now presents the Patek Philippe "Advanced Research" Fortissimo Ref. 5750P with an innovation that increases the volume of the striking mechanism. For this purpose, the watch has a thin glass plate that picks up and amplifies the vibrations of the hammers.…
With the Heritage Pythagore Small Second Limited Edition 148, Montblanc presents two new timepieces that draw on the rich past of the Minerva watch manufacture. With them, the new Montblanc manufacture calibre MB M14.08, inspired by a historic Minerva calibre, makes its debut. It was constructed according to the proportions of the golden ratio and…
This year at Dubai's LMVH watch fair, Zenith brought back the spirit of the 1960s with a brand new El Primero edition. The El Primero A384 Revival was first introduced last year, as the brand celebrated 50 years since becoming the first watchmaker in the world to unveil an automatic integrated chronograph watch. As in…
TUDOR is introducing a new Black Bay 58, which will be only available in the brand's shops. As the name suggests, the TUDOR Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze has a 39 mm case made of bronze. In addition, however, the bracelet with a new extension system is also made of the same material. The new model…