With the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, Carl F. Bucher is presenting an extraordinary minute repeater. The watch combines three elements – oscillating weight, tourbillon and regulator – with peripheral mounting. Last but not least, the watch in the 43.8 mm red gold case comes with a COSC chronometer certificate. As the most complex watch ever made by the brand, it appears as a limited edition of 88 pieces.
Carl F. Bucherer and peripheral mounting
As early as the last century, watchmakers were experimenting with peripheral mounting of components such as the oscillating weight. However, it was not until 2008 that Carl F. Bucher succeeded in putting the technology into series production with the calibre A 1000. Following this, the manufacture presented the T3000 calibre in 2018, which is inside the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral. It combines the peripheral winding with a peripherally mounted tourbillon that appears to float due to the lack of bridges. With the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, Carl F. Bucherer is now going one step further by integrating a minute repeater with a peripherally mounted regulator in addition to the two other innovations.
The case of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony
Carl F. Bucherer houses the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony in a case made of 18-carat rose gold. It measures 43.8 mm in diameter and a slender 12.47 mm in height. It also has open lugs designed to improve the sound of the minute repeater. The bezel is polished to contrast with the brushed sides of the case. Finally, the sapphire crystal case back allows a view of the mechanics inside. However, with a water resistance of 10 metres, the watch should not come into contact with water.
White gold dial
The dial is made of 18-carat white gold and has a galvanised, finely grained surface. It also has hands and indices in 18-carat rose gold that echo the tone of the case. The brand name makes way for the tourbillon and moves to 3 o’clock. Opposite, at 9 o’clock, the small round window displays the status of the watch. A blue dot indicates that the crown is pulled out. A blue note, on the other hand, appears when the minute repeater is activated. In fact, the crown locks as soon as the slide is operated, thus protecting the mechanism from misuse. Conversely, the minute repeater cannot be activated when the crown is pulled out.
A highlight is the peripherally mounted regulator of the minute repeater, which can be spotted at 6 o’clock. Due to the missing bridges, its spin can be observed when the repeater is activated. The two gongs and the corresponding hammers of the minute repeater can also be found at the lower part of the dial through the cut-out. There is also a gold plate here that bears the limitation number.
The calibre MR3000
The MR3000 manufacture movement inside the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony combines three peripheral technologies for the first time. Not only the oscillating weight, but also the tourbillon and the regulator of the minute repeater are peripherally mounted. To realise these functions, the movement requires 600 individual parts. Nonetheless, the calibre measures only 8.59 mm in height and offers a power reserve of 65 hours. In addition, it is COSC-certified and bears various finishes such as Geneva stripes, perlage and diamond-bevelled bridges.
The peripheral rotor
The peripheral winding is a hallmark feature of the Manufacture. Here, the oscillating weight rotates around the movement instead of being centrally mounted. In this way, the automatic winding can be combined with an unobstructed view of the mechanism. In the Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony, the oscillating weight is made of 22-carat rose gold. Four black ceramic bearings support the rail and thereby enable bidirectional winding.
The floating tourbillon
The tourbillon at 12 o’clock is held by three invisible ball bearings and can therefore do without the usual bridges. For this reason, it seems almost to float when looking at the dial. The manufacture also integrates a stop-seconds mechanism to enable the precise setting of the time. In fact, the tourbillon also functions as a small second hand.
The minute repeater
With the minute repeater, Carl F. Bucherer has equipped its flagship model with a high complication. The mechanism here strikes the time with two different gongs. The regulator, which sets the beat for the striking mechanism, is peripherally mounted by three low-friction ceramic ball bearings. This means that this element can also be viewed without a bridge obstructing the view. The wearer triggers the function via the slider, thereby winding a spring that supplies the mechanism with the necessary energy. In addition, the watchmakers integrate an “all or nothing” mechanism, meaning that the repetition only starts when the slider has been fully actuated.
Resonator made of Swiss spruce wood
The watch box of the Manero Minute Repeater Symphony contains an exclusive resonator. It is made of Swiss spruce wood, which comes from the mountain forests of the Jura. In fact, this wood is also used in the construction of guitars and violins. The resonator effectively doubles the volume of the minute repeater so that other people in the vicinity can also listen to its chimes.
The Carl F. Bucherer Manero Minute Repeater Symphony comes on a dark brown strap made of Louisiana alligator leather. The hand-sewn strap secures with a pin folding clasp made of 18-carat rose gold. On request, the house also offers further options for customising the timepiece. The watch is limited to 88 pieces and costs 340,000 euros.
The incredible hype surrounding the Nautilus and the recently introduced olive-green Reference 5711/1A-014 is what it is. Likewise, excitement for Patek's "Grandes Complications" is very much understandable. However, it is the Calatrava collection, with its classical appeal and versatile wearability, that stands for far more than the (price) entry into the world of Patek Philippe.…
Swiss watch manufacture Breitling is launching an extremely limited-edition Chronomat series as well as a new squad. Both dedicate themselves to the unions and federations that make up Six Nations Rugby: England, Ireland, Wales, Scotland, France, and Italy. Breitling holds the title of exclusive luxury watch partner to Six Nations Rugby, and the Chronomat Six…
This year, Omega is expanding its Seamaster Diver 300M collection with two new models in Bronze Gold. These special editions combine the exclusive material with the design of the Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition. The watches feature a case made from the brand's bronze-gold alloy as well as a dial and bezel made from anodised…
On the watch fair SIHH 2019 the Swiss luxury watch brand Vacheron Constantin added a new model to its 'Overseas collection'. This new model is very special due to the fact it is the first one to be operated by a self-winding tourbillon movement. The case of the new model Overseas Tourbillon Ref. 6000V/110A-B544 is made of stainless…
Watchmaker Oris is introducing a new timepiece: the Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition. The model is the third special edition to result from the collaboration between Oris and the Carl Brashear Foundation. This non-profit organization conveys the legacy of Carl Brashear – the first African-American diver in the US-Navy. Accordingly, the watch is inspired…
Tudor‘s new model shows off a part of the brand’s history, that has only been firmly known until now. The Black Bay P01 (Ref. 70150), which was introduced for the first time on the watch fair Baselworld 2019, is inspired by a prototype from the late 1960’s and has been proposed the US Navy. The Swiss watch…
Since the 16th century, watches have been helpful companions in one's pocket. Of course, watches are mainly worn on the wrist these days, yet pocket watches have not lost their charm and still enjoy a certain popularity. Therefore, it is all the more exciting that Hublot has ventured into a new interpretation of the pocket…
This June, Hölstein-based Oris is introducing the first piece in a series of limited edition watches. Essentially, the new Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 is a solid bronze version of the watchmaker's Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph. However, as Co-CEO Rolf Studer explains, the watch is also a 'celebration of Oris' roots'. Furthermore, the 43 mm timepiece hopes…
With the Excalibur Monobalancier and Double Tourbillon, Roger Dubuis is presenting two new variants made of black ceramic. With these watches, the manufacture is venturing into the production of cases made of ceramic for the first time. The material is notoriously difficult to work with, which significantly lengthens the production process. Moreover, the watchmakers did…
As early as the end of the 18th century, Breguet had laid down clear design codes, such as the famous hand-guilloching of dials in gold or silver. Among other things, the watchmaker created the eponymously named Breguet hands with their openworked "pomme" tip. Another ever-recognisable feature has to be the eccentrically arranged dial, taking inspiration…
Breguet is expanding its pilot's watch collection with the Breguet Type XXI 3815. It is a modern and sporty reinterpretation of the Type XXI 3817, presented back in 2016. Particularly striking features include the flashy numerals and hands, which are either orange or green. The watch appears in a titanium case, which allows a view…
Richard Mille has unveiled the RM 17-02 Tourbillon in titanium. This watch embodies the brand’s philosophy, showcasing a balance between technical innovation and aesthetic appeal. From the robust case to the intricate movement and transparent dial, every aspect of this timepiece reflects Richard Mille’s commitment to quality and performance. Let’s take a closer look at…
Jaeger-LeCoultre added a new model to the 'Polaris collection', revealed at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva: the Polaris Geographic WT (Ref. Q904847J). Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic WT Ref. Q904847J The design is inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris watch, one of the models of the Grande Maison's 'Memovox line'. The model is characterized by a sporty,…