First Look: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III

The extravagant watch brand, founded in 1995, and the celebrity body artist have teamed up for their third watch creation. The Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III merges the worlds of watchmaking and tattoo art, showcasing the profound similarities between Roger Dubuis and Brian Woo, alias Dr. Woo. The latter is considered one of the best tattoo artists in the world by connoisseurs of the scene.

Roger Dubuis x Dr. Woo: two worlds, one clear overlap

Neither of them could be considered mainstream. For over three decades, Roger Dubuis has been redefining the conventions of traditional watchmaking, while the tattoo master captivates his international fan base with monochrome fineline and dotwork artistry, brought to life on his clients’ skin with a single needle.

Whether it’s a Swiss watchmaker who describes his philosophy as hyper-horlogerie or an American ink master with an international fan base, sophisticated technology and unique, disruptive design are what make both of them so appealing.

The cosmic journey continues

However, there are also differences. The Roger Dubuis brand – above all its Excalibur collection, which specialises in skeletonisation – embodies large and striking creations, while Dr. Woo stands for minimalism and filigree designs. The fact that the two go well together is now validated once again by their third collaboration, in which – as with the Excalibur Monotourbillon from 2021 – the eponymous complication forms the technical basis.

Following the 2023 release of the Excalibur Monobalancier with a ceramic case and an artistic representation of the sun, earth, and moon, the watchmaker-tattoo artist duo are once again presenting a whirlwind for the wrist: the Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III, limited to 28 pieces – this time on a ‘galactic peace mission’.

‘The way Roger Dubuis lives individuality is inspiring – it corresponds to my own artistic self-image. That is our common denominator,’ explains Dr. Woo. His works are often inspired by natural motifs, geometric shapes and lettering. His works are particularly characterised by three elements: the spider, an enigmatic symbolic language, and a flying rocket. ‘I am always guided by discoveries. With this new watch, we are not only embarking on a journey through space, but also into the depths of our own creative and horological work,’ says the tattoo artist.

The journey into the infinite vastness of the universe symbolically takes place on and within the new watch, taking its wearer to the Whirlpool Galaxy, 31 million light years away. Two years ago, the spiral formation was photographed for the first time using the James Webb Telescope, captivating astronomers at first glance. For many, it is simply one of the most beautiful and striking deep-sky objects, whose arms are considered the cosmic birthplaces of new stars.

And now this Whirlpool Galaxy has even inspired the creation of Roger Dubuis’ new Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III. Yet its appeal goes beyond the visual. The galaxy’s clockwise rotation clearly indicates the functional movement of the tourbillon complication. When you immerse yourself in the detailed world of this watch, it feels almost understated in view of the multitude of messages and symbols associated with an Excalibur.

A brief digression on the Excalibur collection by Roger Dubuis

Since its conception in the early 2000s, the collection has been enchanting enthusiasts with its striking, star-shaped skeletonised movements, which Roger Dubuis describes as works of art rather than technical timepieces. In practice, they seamlessly blend aesthetics and functionality, having been designed as skeletonised movements from the very beginning. They are the heart of the Excalibur timepieces, providing designers with ample room for their creativity and imagination.

Watch glass and dial of the Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III

Typically, the watch glass is designed to protect the dial and remain as inconspicuous as possible. This is not the case with this model. Here, the manufacturing process of this often overlooked element involves a three-dimensional structure, followed by rose-gold finishing. The focus of this elaborate work is Dr. Woo’s rocket and its star-shaped trajectory – complete with an engraved message: ‘We Come in Peace.’ But Dr. Woo’s spider also crawls across the glass at 10 o’clock, laser-engraved and filled with black paint. Right next to it, rose-gold nebulae swirl around a laser-engraved black hole. But that’s not all.

Turning the watch upside down defies the laws of the cosmos – where escape from a black hole is impossible – while also inviting you on an exhilarating journey through the intricate, miniature universe of the Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III. Now you are looking at the exit of the black hole, surrounded by a checkerboard-like, metallised spiral pattern. Should an alien ever get their hands – or anything else – on this timepiece, it will be their task to decipher the message inscribed in a circle on the lower sapphire crystal: ‘Let’s work together to uncover the mysteries of the cosmos and unlock the secrets of the universe. To whoever finds this message, know that we are seekers of knowledge and explorers of the unknown.’

Returning our attention to the front, a galactic world is also visible under the glass. At 1 o’clock, the round barrel cover is matt-black and decorated with the rose-gold orbits of planets, rings and nebulae of distant galaxies. The dial universe is completed by a rhodium-plated, double-sided height ring with rose gold-plated hour markers.

Movement

Despite its desire to communicate with extraterrestrial life forms and its delight in symbolism, the watch remains a watch; therefore, its purpose is to display the time accurately – wherever that may be in our solar system.

This is the responsibility of the RD515 manufacture calibre, featuring a flying tourbillon in the unusual 7 o’clock position – a hallmark of Roger Dubuis. It has been subtly modified for the Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III. While the lower cage is still made of titanium, the upper bridge has been refined to a minimalist form with only three arms and thus created space for another symbol – how could it be otherwise? A mirror-polished stainless steel spiral inspired by the Whirlpool Galaxy, which, together with the steadily rotating tourbillon beneath it, evokes a true sense of space.

The hand-wound RD515 calibre offers a 72-hour power reserve and consists of 193 movement components, which are decorated by hand with a total of 16 surface finishes. It also features the Poinçon de Genève, a legally protected certification of quality and origin for mechanical watches that are manufactured and regulated in the canton of Geneva.

Case, bezel, and bracelet

The titanium case, which is water-resistant to 10 bar, measures 42 millimetres in diameter and 12.62 millimetres in height, providing a secure framework for the journey through space and time. It is surrounded by a 750 rose-gold bezel, which bears further inscriptions from Dr. Woo – in this case, messages that are also puzzling to humans. These can also be found on the middle links of the interchangeable titanium and rose-gold bracelet, which is equipped with a triple folding clasp.

Price & availability of the Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III

Limited to 28 pieces, the Excalibur Dr. Woo Monotourbillon Episode III is available exclusively in Roger Dubuis boutiques. Price: 183,000 euros.

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