It’s the one we’ve all been waiting for: today, several new watches are emerging from the Rolex manufacture. Rolex’s 2024 lineup is giving a contemporary spin to its iconic models, mixing materials, colours, and textures to inject freshness into its timeless designs. The novelties blend elements to strike a balance between practicality and style, tradition and modernity. The result is an array of well-balanced yet rather unexpected new watches that include updates in the Day-Date, 1908, Deepsea, Daytona and Sky-Dweller lines. Alright, faithful Rolex followers (why is there not a better word for Rolex fans yet?), let’s jump right in.
A recipe for a collector favourite? The Rolex 1908 Ice Blue
I’m going to start this report with the still fairly new 1908, launched at last year’s Watches & Wonders in homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf devised the name ‘Rolex’ to sign his creations and registered the brand in Switzerland. This year, the brand is introducing a dashing ice-blue 950 platinum model that embraces the elegance of the collection, as well as modernity through its less-than-traditional colour scheme. The case remains at a subtle 39 mm in diameter, alongside a water-resistance of 50 m.
All about the dial
As we all know, whether on an AP Royal Oak or Tissot PRX, ice-blue remains something of a hype colour for watch enthusiasts. Yet Rolex counter this fact through the dial’s absolute exquisite finishing, which comes in the form of a geometric pattern that extends across the surface of the dial, starting from the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The minute track is surrounded by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern, which is also guilloché. As a result, old and new come together very nicely, not to mention with the utmost expertise.
Rolex’s decision to experiment with an engine-turned dial also marks rather a new path for Rolex, known above all for its high precision movements and iconic designs. This focus on craftsmanship in an overtly aesthetic form is an exciting move – one that indicates the manufacture’s eagerness to display its knowhow and creativity across the board.
Classic 1908 aesthetics
As with last year’s release, the dial indicates the time using Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12, as well as the same faceted hour markers and hands. The vintage-style small seconds, which match to the minute track, remain at 6 o’clock. Rolex pair the ice-blue dial with a brown alligator strap that surely underlines the fact that the 1908 remains, ultimately, a wonderfully classic collection.
Full steam ahead with the calibre 7140
Last but not least, Rolex power the watch with the calibre 7140, a handsome movement featuring bridges decorated with Rolex Côtes de Genève and a cut-out oscillating weight, as is visible for aesthetes to admire via the caseback.
More importantly for others, the calibre 7140 incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, which combines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Using nickel-phosphorus, this escapement is resistant to strong magnetic fields. The movement also includes the patented Syloxi hairspring. This silicon hairspring has a patented geometry that ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is mounted on the in-house patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, which, in turn, increase the movement’s shock resistance. The oscillating weight is fashioned in yellow gold and cut out. It is fitted with an optimised ball bearing.
Last but not least, the calibre 7140 uses a self-winding system via a Perpetual rotor. Thanks to its barrel architecture and the escapement’s superior efficiency, the power reserve of this movement extends to approximately 66 hours. In addition, it beats at a frequency of 4 Hz. Like all Rolex watch movements, the Perpetual 1908 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.
The Perpetual 1908 with ice blue dial (Ref. 52506) is available for a price of 31,000 euros.
New materials: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea
This one’s going to be a hit with the Oyster Perpetual Deepseas fans (I’m sure you’re out there, scuba masks at the ready). This all-new edition showcases a completely new colour scheme that combines an 18-carat gold case with a deep blue lacquer dial and matching 60-minute graduated Cerachrom bezel. PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) coats the moulded, recessed graduations and numerals on the insert. Similarly, the engraved inscriptions on the ring are coated in yellow gold using PVD.
Ceramic innovation
On that note: there’s also a new technical innovation, in the form of the high-performance compression ring within the Ringlock system, which is now crafted from ceramic for the first time. The Rolex Ringlock system, for those who don’t know, comprises three superposed elements: a thick, slightly domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, a high-performance compression ring, which withstands the water pressure, and a caseback in RLX titanium. The novel blue ceramic compression ring, featuring circular satin finish and inscriptions that are engraved then gilded, represents a fresh approach to integrating ceramic into a watch case. This high-tech material’s compression resistance and anti-deformation properties contribute to enhancing the watch’s water-resistance of 3,900 metres (12,800 feet).
The new Deepsea watch comes on a matching 18-carat yellow gold Oyster bracelet, aka a very robust three-link bracelet that seals to the wrist via the Oysterlock folding safety clasp. It also features the Rolex Glidelock extension system. This allows for fine adjustment of the bracelet length, without the need for tools. Returning to good old ceramic once again, the bracelet integrates ceramic inserts inside the links to enhance flexibility on the wrist.
The calibre 3235: Technology at the heart of the watch
Powering the 44 mm Rolex Deepsea is the calibre 3235, offering date, hours, minutes and seconds. This movement has been on the scene for almost a decade, while first appearing in a Deepsea back in 2018. As one would hope for a hardcore diver’s watch like this, the calibre focuses on precision, power reserve, convenience and reliability.
Like the aforementioned calibre 7140, this movement calibre 3235 likewise incorporates the patented Chronergy escapement, as well as Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in a paramagnetic alloy. The hairspring offers great stability in the face of temperature variations as well as high resistance to shocks. Meanwhile, the movement’s Rolex overcoil ensures the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is also mounted on the Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. Since 2023, the oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimised ball bearing. The calibre 3235 uses a self-winding system via a perpetual rotor, beating at a frequency of 4 Hz. The power reserve extends to 70 hours.
The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea in yellow gold (Ref. 136668LB) is available for a price of 53,200 euros.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Moving away from the handsome blue Rolex novelties of 2024, we also have a handful of new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date models with varying colour schemes. The new 36 mm model colour combinations include a yellow-gold watch with a white lacquer dial, or a timepiece with an Everose gold case and blue-green dial (we first saw this colour on a Sky-Dweller last year) and diamond hour markers as well as a matching trapeze-cut diamond bezel. Meanwhile, the two 40 mm novelties come in the form of a white-gold edition with mother-of-pearl dial and diamond hour markers, or a particularly eye-catching Everose gold watch with an all-new sultry dial, which Rolex is christening ‘slate ombré’. All of the watches come on a matching President bracelet, which aficionados will know is reserved exclusively for the Day-Date and a small number of precious metal versions of the Datejust.
Slate ombré dial: Why is it drawing so much attention?
Indeed, slate ombré is a hot topic over at the Rolex booth towering over visitors at the Watches & Wonders trade fair. But what is this coveted slate ombré dial colour, exactly? Essentially, its surface, lightly coloured at the centre (albeit as light as black can ever be), progresses to a deep black around the edge. The manufacture of these ombré dials, with their concentric gradient, involves the application of black lacquer, a delicate operation overseen by a specialist, whose task it is to ensure the harmonious transition from colour to darkness. Also appearing for the first time on the ombré dial of the 40 mm Everose watch are faceted, deconstructed Roman numerals and faceted index hour markers in pink gold.
Why is this new slate ombré and its hours markers of note to enthusiasts, you ask? Well, until now, other Rolex ombré dials were set with diamond hour markers and were reserved for the Day-Date 36 – thus excluding the ombré option entirely for many men. Furthermore, this new dial represents the continuity of a design that the brand introduced in the 1980s and relaunched in 2019 – and who doesn’t love a good historical reference in their Rolex?
Calibre 3255
This brings us to the movement present in both the 36 and 40 mm models, which unsurprisingly centres itself on precision above all else. Once again, the calibre integrates a Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, and oscillator mounted onto Paraflex shock absorbers. As of last year, the oscillating weight has been fitted with an optimised ball bearing. The self-winding movement has a 70 hours power reserve and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz.
The prices of the new Rolex Day-Date models are as follows:
36 mm yellow gold and white lacquer dial (Ref. 128238), 35,900 euros.
36 mm Everose and blue-green dial (Ref. 128395 TBR), 81,600 euros.
40 mm white gold and mother-of-pearl dial (Ref. 228239), 48,050 euros.
40 mm Everose and slate ombré dial (Ref. 228235), 42,500 euros.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller
In terms of colour scheme, the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller models destined for those planning to traverse the world in 2024 are pretty similar to the above, albeit with only two new additions. This includes a model with the same much-discussed slate ombré dial in combination with an 18-carat Everose case, and a second edition featuring a white lacquer dial tempered nicely with an 18-carat yellow-gold case. Despite the latter’s comparatively simply aesthetic, it is a particularly handsome piece for exactly this reason. Both versions come on a five-link Jubilee bracelet.
New colours, same layout as ever
The elegant new models feature all the typical characteristics for the famous traveller’s watch from Rolex. The Sky-Dweller succinctly displays dual time zones and features an annual calendar function. It presents a reference time in a 24-hour format through an off-centre disc, while local time is indicated by traditional central hands. Dubbed ‘Saros’ by Rolex, the annual calendar distinguishes between 30- and 31-day months automatically, thanks to a patented mechanism. Its innovative display showcases the months in 12 apertures around the dial’s circumference, with the current month highlighted in red. The date changes instantaneously in sync with the local time, and a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock allows for easy reading of the date.
Additionally, the Sky-Dweller incorporates the so-called Ring Command system, a patented interface that seamlessly connects the rotatable bezel, winding crown, and movement. This system allows wearers to quickly and securely select and adjust the timepiece’s functions one by one.
Let’s also remember that the Sky-Dweller is not just for the traveller, but for the adventurer. Thus, the 42 mm Oyster case of the Sky-Dweller is water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres, with the middle case of the new versions crafted from a solid block of yellow or Everose gold. Its caseback, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. The Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case.
The trusty calibre 9002
Thanks to this construction, the case steadfastly protects the calibre 9002. This in-house movement has been on the scene for a mere year, and solely serves the Sea-Dweller collection. Just like our other calibres thus far, it is home to several Rolex innovations. This includes the patented Chronergy escapement, blue Parachrom hairspring, Rolex overcoil, and oscillator attached to the Rolex Paraflex shock absorbers. Again, the oscillating weight is fitted with an optimised ball bearing. In addition, the automatic calibre 9002 has a 72-hour power reserve and frequency of 4 Hz.
The prices of the new Rolex Sea-Dweller models are as follows:
42 mm Everose with slate ombré dial (Ref. 336935), 53,000 euros.
42 mm yellow gold with white dial (Ref.336938), 50,100 euros.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona
Congratulations, you’ve made it through this glittering array of Rolex novelties, and we’re going out with a bit of diamond-studded bang: the new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona editions. To be honest, these two new watches are likely nothing for the typical Daytona followers who dream of evocative, sporty steel cases and panda dials. This new Daytona duo for 2024 is definitely more on the quirky side, if you will. A different target audience, perhaps.
Are diamonds a Daytona’s best friend?
In any case, let’s get to know these glittering two pieces, which combine 18-carat white-gold cases, mother-of-pearl dials, and diamond hour markers and bezels. A nebulous tone of brown (although technically, this is black mother-of-pearl) makes an appearance on either the dial or subdial counters, alternating between this colour and white mother-of-pearl. Both dials also feature eight sumptuous diamonds and three Chromalight hour markers, providing glamour and round-the-clock legibility. The razzle-dazzle doesn’t end there, though: the bezel of both models is also home to a further 36 brilliant-cut diamonds. In terms of more pragmatic elements, the watches’ dials of course also integrate a tachymetric scale, while the capitalised word DAYTONA stands out defiantly in red.
The 40 mm white-gold models are water-resistant to a depth of 100 metres, not least thanks to the screw-down caseback and Triplock winding crown. While one version comes with the athletic Oysterflex bracelet, the other opts for a matching white-gold Oyster bracelet for a somewhat more sporty look.
Calibre 4131
Contrary to their aesthetic embellishments, these are obviously still sports chronographs. Thus, the Cosmograph Daytona models house the calibre 4131, which allows them to measure intervals of time via the chronograph function, in addition to displaying the hours, minutes and seconds. In addition, the calibre’s bridges showcase Rolex Côtes de Genève as well as a cut-out oscillating weight. However, this is concealed by a closed caseback. The calibre 4131 has a solid 72-hour power reserve and beats at a frequency of 4 Hz.
The prices of the two new Rolex Daytona models are as follows:
White-gold with black dial and Oyster bracelet (Ref. 126579RBR), 71,650 euros
White-gold with white dial and Oysterflex strap (Ref. 126589RBR), 62,850 euros
