Switzerland’s watch manufactures have presented their unique pieces for the Only Watch Auction 2021. The Only Watch initiative annually auctions off extraordinary timepieces, which have been produced solely for this event. The proceeds go towards research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy. This year’s auction will take place on 6 November 2021 in cooperation with Christie’s in Geneva. Below, we present the highlights of the Only Watch 2021 collection.
Patek Philippe has presented a table clock with a perpetual calendar. This unique piece is inspired by a timepiece that Patek Philippe delivered to the US businessman James Ward Packard in 1923. The original is now in the manufacture’s museum. This “Unique Piece” for the Only Watch Auction 2021 has a sterling silver case with vermeil decorative elements and inlays of American walnut. Inside is the calibre 86-135 PEND IRM Q SE. In addition to the perpetual calendar with week numbers, it displays the phases of the moon and has a power reserve indicator (31 days). The Complicated Desk Clock also achieves a maximum rate deviation of only +1/-1 second per day.
Audemars Piguet is presenting the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Only Watch, which combines the old with the new. The 39 mm case consists of titanium and solid metallic glass. The latter is an extremely modern material that has been the subject of intensive research and is now being used by Audemars Piguet for the first time. In contrast, the Manufacture harks back to the beginnings of the legendary Royal Oak when it comes to the dial. The “Petite Tapisserie” features the typography for the signature and monogram as introduced in 1972 with the 5402 A series.
The manufacture of François-Paul Journe presents an exceptional timepiece. The unique FFC Blue tells the time with an actual hand. The fingers appear according to the current hour. Meanwhile, the blue arrow at 12 o’clock points to the appropriate minute, which has been moved from the disc to this position. The idea for this clock goes back to Francis Ford Coppola, whom Journe met for dinner in 2012. After 2 years of “invenit” – to invent – and another 7 years of “fecit” – to make –, the manufacture succeeded in producing such an automaton. The watch comes in a 42 mm case that consists of the rare metal tantalum.
On the occasion of the Only Watch Auction 2021, TUDOR is presenting a variation of the Black Bay GMT. The watch has a 41 mm case made of stainless steel, which is given a patina by a secret technique. This finish is also found on the case back, dial and bracelet. Even the movement, which can be seen through the visible case back, gets this finish. Nevertheless, the calibre MT5652-1U meets the strict requirements of the METAS Master Chronometer certificate. The TUDOR Black Bay GMT ONE can display three time zones simultaneously and also has a date window.
In honour of the racing driver Charles Leclerc, Richard Mille sends the RM 67-02 into the competition. This watch has a case of red and white quartz TPT and thus reflects the colours of Leclerc’s flag, just like the dial. Inside works the calibre CRMA7, which has automatic winding. Last but not least, the “Comfort” strap makes this model the lightest automatic watch in the Richard Mille collection.
AkriviA presents a follow-up to the Chronomètre Contemporain, which appears in a platinum case. The dial consists of multi-layered enamel. The renowned Armin Strom Manufacture presents the Gravity Equal Force Only Watch, a variant of the very first watch with constant force transmission to the balance. The famous watchmaker Kari Voutilainen made the guilloche base plate for this model. The sapphire crystal dial and the orange accents also make their mark. The German Swiss company H. moser & Cie created the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch for the auction. The watch combines a Vantablack dial with a tourbillon and comes on an integrated steel bracelet.
Meanwhile, Lauren Ferrier presents the Classic Origin Hope, which symbolises hope with its green hue. MB&F also present the HM10 Panda Only Watch, a variation of the HM10 Bulldog, which has now taken on the colours of a panda. Furthermore, the independent manufacturer Urwerk exhibits the UR-102 “GAÏA”. This timepiece has only a wandering hour indicator as its sole indicator and is housed in a round case that combines aluminium and platinum. On the back, Urwerk also puts their interpretation of the Gaïa award.
Swatch Group brands Breguet, Blancpain and Jaquet Droz each present a candidate for the auction. From Breguet comes the Type XX Only Watch 2021 Flyback Chronograph, which is a recreation of Breguet’s first civilian Type XX models. Even the Valjoux 235 calibre is a direct descendant of the historic Valjoux 222, which Breguet used from the 1950s onwards.
Elsewhere, Blancpain is showing the Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad for Only Watch. This is a Fifty Fathoms that bears the “no radiations” logo on the dial. It was applied during the 1960s to indicate that no radium was used in the watches. Today, these timepieces are collectors’ items. Finally, Jaquet Droz presents the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Tourbillon “Only Watch” that features a plique-à-jour dial consisting of many individual enamel pieces. The watch also has a flying tourbillon.
The brands of the LVMH Group present some unusual creations. Firstly, Bulgari houses the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar Tantalum in a case made of the latter rare metal. The Manufacture also replaces the abbreviation NOV for the month of November with NOW in the typical orange of the Only Watch auction. Meanwhile, Hublot presents a Big Bang Tourbillon, which also appears in orange. The case of the watch is made of sapphire crystal and integrates a movement with tourbillon and microrotor. Also housed in a sapphire crystal case is the Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon Felipe Pantone. The watch stands out with its many rainbow-coloured accents and the integration of two tourbillons.
The Louis Vuitton brand has also decided to put a timepiece up for auction. The Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon shines in warm colours and has baguette diamonds as indices. It also has a flying tourbillon and a GMT function. Last but not least, we see Tag Heuer’s Only Watch Carbon Monaco, which wraps the iconic watch in carbon. The dial is also skeletonised, revealing the Heuer 02 calibre. The latter also features a carbon hairspring.
