A piece of contemporary watch history: the Patek Philippe Reference 5204 Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar
‘Candyman’ is not only a horror movie from 1992, but also the movie’s main character that appears when people look into a mirror and call his name five times. The watch reality in 2019 is less supernatural though, but almost as creepy: In real life, you might even stand in front of the Patek Philippe concessionaire a dozen times and chant ‘Nautilus’ as often as you want – most likely it will still not show up. The Patek design is incredibly omnipresent on social media, the desire of the Nautilus is so huge that some Patek aficionado started to become irritated. The reason is because the Geneva manufacturer is much more famous for many other achievements than just the Genta design. In its DNA it carries the striving for more, the striving for the next step in Haute Horlogerie for horological excellence. One of the best examples of this: the reference 5204, a split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar. One of the most sophisticated complications alongside a minute repeater.
You are currently viewing a placeholder content from Default. To access the actual content, click the button below. Please note that doing so will share data with third-party providers.
The reference 5204 is also one of these models that is not only extremely rare – money and patience isn’t enough to get hold of it. Instead, you have to apply to Patek Philippe, and prove that the applicant is worthy of paying 264,240 euros – for reference 5204/1R-001 with black dial and rose gold bracelet, it’s 290,770 euros.
Whereas this is not so much about the price of this timepiece, it is still an unmistakable indication that even in Patek’s world, you move in extreme spheres. Indeed, the 5204 is a milestone in recent Patek Philippe history. The reference was first introduced in 2012, in platinum and again with a silvery-opaline dial, and also a version with a black dial in 2014.
Ref. 5204R is the secret star of Patek and much rarer than any Nautilus
First in-house split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar
The presentation of a split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar was a loyal and logical step from the Geneva watchmakers when it came to the presentation and product development of great new ‘complications’: on the basis of the new calibre CH 29-535 PS, they implemented a standard chronograph into their boutiques (ref. 5170 in 2010), followed by a standard chronograph with a perpetual calendar (ref. 5270 in 2011), and now the split-seconds chronograph with a perpetual calendar and its calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q. The new calibre replaces the calibre 27-70 by Nouvelle Lémania that had been used up until now. And although this movement was modified and finished to Patek’s fullest expectations, the step to produce this movement entirely in-house was indeed historic.
Patek’s first in-house split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar
Hence, the 5204 stands for tradition as well as for the future of the brand. With a hand-wound movement, two column wheels and horizontal clutch, it certainly is a classical offspring of the Patek family, and the dial also shows a familiar ‘face’. With a case diameter of 40.2 millimetres, however, they are taking a big – one might say: contemporary – step. Its predecessor model, ref. 5004, measured a mere 36.7 millimetres.
Contemporary or daring? Ref. 5204R has a case diameter of 40,2 mm instead of 36,7 mm like its predecessors
That is also why ‘the chin’ is most controversially discussed, the sub-dial at 6 o’clock and its moon phase and date indication that sneaks into the outer ring of the minute display and brings the symmetry slightly out of balance. It’s just a tiny design detail – but the new dimension that offers more space on the dial is causing some irritation. A great number of contemporary Patek collectors seem to be pleased, however: The American TV-presenter Ellen de Generes as well as football legend Frank Lampard are amongst the proud owners of a ref. 5204.
You can imagine how demanding CEO Thierry Stern’s job is, a permanent balancing act, especially in terms of aesthetics: The faction of traditionalists is especially large when it comes to ‘grandes complications’ – for them, everything seemed to be better back in the day. At the same time, you can be sure that brand owner Stern doesn’t need any extra lessons in brand history, but rather is leading the manufacturer into the future. From all of the laurels Patek has won in the past: stagnation is not an option, especially in the watch industry.
The split-seconds chronograph is one of the three most difficult complications to master in watchmaking
Calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q with isolator-system
It is therefore worth taking a glimpse of ref. 5204 with its silvery-opaline dial in white gold, cased in a perfect rose gold hue. The view through the sapphire case back revealing the movement is even more fascinating, where a new isolator system presents a great horological novelty. This isolator uncouples the split-seconds wheel from the chronograph wheel as soon as the split-seconds hand is stopped to display a lap time. The decisive advantage of the new isolator is that it can move back and forth when the split-seconds clamps are opened and closed. This is more reliable than the mechanism used in the previous reference 5004 that only rotates in one direction. This mechanism alone consists of 42 parts, and of 469 in the entire movement. The balance runs at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour, which is a great modification to the previous model at 18,000 vps.
Calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q with isolator system (left)
In-house calibre CHR 29-535 PS Q (right)
This first in-house, split-seconds chronograph perpetual calendar with its inner and external appearance is the hidden star of the Patek collection. Much rarer than any Nautilus, and at the same time a watch that has brought Patek far further. Only the rose gold version is available in the collection at the moment. And if Patek stays true to its rhythm – apart from the visually slightly updated chronograph ref. 5172 presented this year – we cannot expect a truly new design for this split-seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar until 2021.
The 25th James Bond film “No Time To Die” will most likely be Daniel Craig’s last role as secret agent 007. Just as the trailer of the new agent-adventure has been released, OMEGA unveils the new timepiece that will be worn by James Bond in the film: The Seamaster Diver 300M “007” Edition. The actor…
Anniversaries always provide a nice opportunity to pay attention to important milestones. Swiss watch manufacture Breitling has such an anniversary coming up: one of their most important chronographs, the Premier, is celebrating its 80th anniversary this year. Of course, Breitling wouldn't be Breitling without a surprise guest. With that, we can turn our full attention…
Whatever their shape or form, all watches tell us the time. But aside from this highly handy function, which two complications prove the most useful in everyday life? According to Parmigiani Fleurier, the answer is: an annual calendar and a chronograph. These are the two functions that define the Swiss horology house's new limited edition…
Every fan of Breguet will be well aware of the background to the horology house’s Tradition line. After all, it’s a story that has been shared extensively across the years. Meanwhile, for all those who are new and unaware, it is worth taking a quick trip back to the 18th century, before we get to…
It's safe to say that the watch community knows Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak pretty well. From its octagonal bezel, exposed hexagonal screws, and diver's helmet inspiration to the tapisserie dial, we know the design code inside out. Except the latter element is nowhere in sight on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in…
The significance of a 'Royal Warrant' – the distinction of being a royal purveyor – can be felt not only in museums. When King Charles III recently withdrew this status from the chocolate company Cadbury after 170 years, it caused quite a stir. After all, Cadbury is considered one of Britain’s strongest brands. However, according…
At the time when Pierre Jaquet-Droz was born in 1721, the golden age for automatons just started. The engineer Jacques de Vaucanson enchanted the people with his ‘mechanical duck’, made of more than 400 moving components and able to move its wings, chatter and sip water. The young watchmaker Pierre Jaquet-Droz was fascinated by this…
Some watches simply command respect. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Nonantième is one such watch. The horology house's Reverso model is always sleek, suave, and attractive. This unconventional piece, however, takes high watchmaking to a whole new level. Area of expertise: The Reverso and complications Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to creating complicated Reverso watches. The first…
While the production of mechanical watches is certainly a challenge in itself, the same can also be said for the timepieces’ after-sales servicing down the line. After all, although a manufacturer is responsible for quality during production, it is often difficult to control who tampers with a watch in need of repair or maintenance later…
Swatch Group founder Nicolas G. Hayek had a perceptive intuition for traditional watchmakers of which horological heritage has been ageing little over the years and he had a strong demand to keep the Swiss watch industry alive – thus, his attention was besides Abraham-Louis Breguet and Jehan-Jacques Blancpain also on Pierre Jaquet Droz, the ingenious…
To understand the legend that is Porsche, it is worth looking at the world through a child's eyes. For example, the three-year-old son of a couple who are friends of mine, who cheers "Porsche!” every single time he sees a 911 in traffic. This reminds me of my own behaviour many, many years ago. But…
In April, Norqain — arguably the youngest brand in the history of the fair — will make its second appearance at the prestigious Watches and Wonders. To mark the occasion, Norqain will present, among other highlights, two new models from the Independence Skeleton Chrono collection, as well as a total of four new models from…
Ever since the Wright brothers revolutionised aviation in 1903, watch manufactures have competed to produce the best, most precise, and most functional tool watches for the skies. Given the superlatives with which some manufactures gild themselves today, it is easy to lose track of who actually played what role and when. After all, there are…