The modern-day Breitling chronograph dates back to 1983, when it was first conceived for the aerobatic squadron of the Italian Air Force, “Frecce Tricolori“. One year later, upon the 100 year anniversary of Breitling, the Chronomat was produced as a series for the first time, in the form of the Ref. 81950. It was distinguished by two particular features; the applied and interchangeable rider tabs on the bezel, as well as by its recognisable Rouleaux bracelet.
Last year, under the direction of Georges Kern, Breitling relaunched the Chronomat in the form of several new models. Although the Chronomat was and remains a sporty, masculine watch, it certainly also wears well with a suit. In this sense, the collection stands out in comparison to the Avenger or Colt models of the past. Last year’s re-editions did come with versatile material and dial options, but without any other additional features.
However, this is no longer the case since the introduction of the latest Breitling Super Chronomat, which the brand describes as an extension of the main collection. The sporty all-purpose watch also has an extra power; every model is no longer 42 mm but 44 mm, and some editions are getting new functions and bracelet options, too. For the first time, there will be a Chronomat with a stainless-steel bezel and ceramic insert. Other features remain as before, such as the interchangeable rider tabs at 3 and 9 o’clock, which allow the wearer to use them as either countdown or count-up functions.
The new Super Chronomat B01 44 is available in three different variations. This includes two stainless-steel models with a dial and bezel in either blue or black. The third version features an 18-carat red gold case and bracelet, alongside a brown bezel and dial.
Furthermore, the bezel integrates a ceramic insert. Finally, the watches have silver chronograph counters, which lie beneath a cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides.
Powering the new Super Chronomat B01 44 models is once again the COSC-certified Calibre B01, integrating a column wheel and vertical clutch. The in-house calibre has a 70-hour power reserve. Customers can choose between either a stainless-steel Rouleaux bracelet with a folding clasp or a rubber strap resembling the Rouleaux style, which matches the colour of the watch. The Super Chronomat B01 44 is available now, starting at 8,150 euros.
Some will still remember one or two of the models from the 80s with a special feature on the bracelet. This feature was a UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) display, providing a way to keep track of a second time zone. To be precise, it is the primary world time standard in use today – so with one hour difference to the CET (Central European Time). The Super Chronomat B01 44 (Reference AB0136251B1A2), with its black dial, incorporates the same UTC module into its Rouleaux bracelet – thus offering a second time zone. Its price is 9,700 euros.
The real surprise piece of the new collection has to be the Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar models. Integrating a “half”-perpetual calendar, it only needs adjustment once per leap year (every 1461 days).
Versions of this model include a version with a stainless-steel case and bezel with a black ceramic insert, as well as red-gold details upon a matching black dial. Alternatively, another stainless-steel edition comes with a red-gold bezel with a blue ceramic insert and matching dial. This version comes with a two-tone Rouleaux bracelet made from stainless-steel and 18-carat red gold. The chronograph subdial counters on both models match the dial, and are protected by a cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides.
Inside the new Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar is the Breitling calibre 19 with a vertical clutch. This COSC-certified chronograph movement provides day, date, months and moonphase display. Its power reserve amounts to 42 hours. The Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar is available now and its price starts at 14,000 euros.
Despite the additional functions, the new models are somewhat slimmer than their predecessors from the precious year. The height of the Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar models is 14.55 mm. By contrast, the Super Chronomat B01 44 is even slimmer at 14.45 mm. The somewhat more puristic Chronomat from the previous year is, by comparison, 14.1 mm, with a case diameter of 42 mm.
Thanks to the Rouleaux bracelet, the models are easily recognisable as Chronomats. Nevertheless, they somehow exude something that evokes the Superocean (Heritage) line. It may be their sporty and distinctive bezels, which people have not previously associated with the Chronomat. In terms of craftsmanship, functionality and movements, the new models are certainly extremely attractive – and pretty competitive within their given price segment.
