Vacheron Constantin Patrimony: Pure Restraint At Its Finest

Vacheron Constantin makes no secret of the significance of its Patrimony collection for the maison. The name itself, ‘Patrimony’, speaks to the brand’s heritage, evoking a deep legacy of history, emotion, responsibility, and a commitment to carry that legacy forward.

When the horology house from Geneva first decided to launch the collection twenty years ago, the people behind it never had any intention of thinking small – there was simply too much historical weight behind it. Today, we can confidently say it was the right decision. The collection has grown to encompass 23 models and now includes a limited edition shaped by designer Ora ïto, who has left a lasting impression on the collection’s aesthetic.

Collectors often consider the Patrimony line the pinnacle of class and elegance, offering a refined interpretation of the ‘dress watch’ genre. The latest model not only meets these expectations but also adds its own distinctive touch.

The Patrimony: Back to the future with Vacheron Constantin

Founded in 1755, Vacheron Constantin has a long-standing legacy, but the Patrimony collection looks specifically to the 1950s for inspiration. It draws from two models from 1957: Reference 6178, with its hour, minute, and large central second hands, and Reference 6179, which features a small seconds hand at six o’clock.

Both designs are exercises in minimalism that embrace the idea of ‘less is more, featuring slim cases and understated markers that let the dial take centre stage. These discreet watches were status symbols destined only for those in the know – subtle statements of gentlemanly refinement that allowed the wearer’s own personality to shine through.

When Vacheron Constantin revived this look in 2004 with the Patrimony collection, it perfectly embodied the brand’s spirit. But at the time, dress watches were not exactly in vogue. This was the era of Maroon 5, Ashlee Simpson, and Lost on TV, with Von Dutch baseball caps dominating streetwear. Mark Zuckerberg was busy launching what was then known as ‘TheFacebook’, leading a new generation of Silicon Valley entrepreneurs proving you could succeed without a suit and tie.

Yet the Patrimony collection stayed true to its timeless design language: a perfectly round, slim case, narrow bezel, domed dial, slender indices, and baton hands. Over the years, the collection expanded to include more complications, like the 2011 Patrimony with a perpetual calendar, powered by a movement measuring just 4.05 mm in height, all housed within an elegant 8.9 mm case.

Today, Patrimony watches are available in various sizes, from 36.5 to 42.5 mm, with either hand-wound or automatic movements. The diamond-set ladies’ versions are regarded as some of the most sophisticated yet understated gem-set watches on the market. Options range from retrograde date and day displays to simple two-hand models, with dials in blue, pink, or silver opaline. Cases come in rose gold, white gold, platinum – and now, yellow gold is making its return.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collection

Ora ïto and the paradox of yellow gold simplicity

The newest Patrimony model celebrates yellow gold – not only for the case, but also on the dial. This monochromatic design may evoke memories of classic timepieces from a previous era. Yellow gold, once the ultimate symbol of success, has been making a comeback, despite rose gold’s recent popularity. After all, when we think of gold, isn’t yellow the first hue that comes to mind?

The nostalgic feel of yellow gold is further enhanced by Ora ïto’s influence on this Patrimony edition. The monochromatic colour scheme is broken up by concentric circles on the dial, drawing the eye into their hypnotic pattern. This design feels both steeped in nostalgia and strikingly modern, exuding a restrained elegance that still captivates – especially for its lucky owner.

Ora ïto, French industrial and product designer

Ora ïto, the 47-year-old French designer known for his collaborations with Louis Vuitton and Gucci, is a key figure in Vacheron Constantin’s ‘One of Not Many’ campaign. His timeless philosophy of ‘Simplexity’, blending simplicity with complexity, reflects a sophisticated design approach. As Ora ïto himself explains, “Good design isn’t meant to be discarded after a short time, but to express an enduring essence.” The result is a Patrimony model that will undoubtedly appeal to both watch aficionados and design enthusiasts alike.

Facts, figures, and the verdict: Vacheron Constantin, Ora ïto, and the Patrimony

This new Patrimony model boasts a familiar 40 mm diameter, offering ideal proportions. It is powered by the automatic calibre 2450 Q6, with a 40-hour power reserve. The watch features three hands – a central second hand and a discreet date function. While some purists might object to the date window, it blends harmoniously with the overall design, with the circular dial pattern subtly drawing attention away from it. The applied hour markers and pearl minute track, crafted in 18-carat 3N yellow gold, add to the refined appearance. Even the Vacheron Constantin logo, applied under the sapphire crystal using metal transfer, deserves a second look for its understated elegance.

The case and dial are paired with a burgundy calfskin strap, featuring a bold stripe pattern that continues the fusion of classic and modern elements. While rivals like Patek Philippe’s Calatrava and A. Lange & Söhne’s Saxonia Thin offer strong alternatives, few models combine contemporary design and vintage charm as seamlessly as this one.

Limited to just 100 pieces, the Patrimony Automatic brings Vacheron Constantin’s 20th-anniversary celebration of the collection to a close. With a price tag of €38,200, demand is expected to be high.

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