Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon in Titanium
At the Maison Vacheron Constantin, the Les Cabinotiers represent a department dedicated to the personalization of pieces and unique creations. This tradition dates back to the 18th century, a time when master watchmakers were called ‘cabinotiers’ and worked in ateliers bathed in natural light, known as cabinets and located on the top floor of Geneva’s buildings. The artisans were inspired by astronomy, mechanical engineering and the arts. This unique craftsmanship atelier at Vacheron Constantin is still present today.
In 2015, after eight years of development the atelier presented the most complicated watch ever made: a pocket watch reference 57260 with 57 complications. In 2016, the wristwatch Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Ref. 91990/000G-9882 in white gold was launched, which highlights two of the mechanisms from reference 57260: the bi-axial armillary tourbillon with spherical balance-spring and the instant retrograde display of the time indication. Whereas here, even a double retrograde display was implemented, for hours and minutes.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon in Titanium
Ref. 91990/000T-B633
Vacheron Constantin and the watchmakers of the department of the Les Cabinotiers now extend this unique line with an execution in ultra-light titanium, Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon Ref. 91990/000T-B633. On the right side of the watch, the large and small hands sweep over the semi-circle of the dial, with a strikingly fast return to zero once the 60 minutes and 12 hours have been reached. To provide the best possible view of its subtle details, the slate opaline dial is limited to a single chapter ring punctuated by Arabic numerals for the minutes and Roman numerals for the hours.
The armillary tourbillon with small seconds is placed on the left side of the dial. Forming a sphere in perpetual motion, this tourbillon was named ‘armillary’ in reference to the French watchmaker Antide Janvier, who in the 18th century created a spectacular astronomical clock bearing an armillary sphere. This structure consists of two nested carriages moving on two different axes at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation.
In this modern interpretation, the mechanism features a silicon escapement and a lever with diamond pallets, which ultra-light high-tech materials contribute to a precision that even exceeds the requirements of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The cylindrical balance-spring, invented by Jacques-Frédéric Houriet in 1814, has no terminal curve giving the tourbillon a perfectly concentric beat leading to an improved isochronism.
Four patents have been registered for the retrograde system, escapement and tourbillon of the manual-winding movement caliber 1990. On the dial side, the caliber features a bold construction with clean-edged bridges and a Clous de Paris hobnail finish on the remaining dial plate. This one of a kind timepiece has ‘Pièce unique’ and ‘Les Cabinotiers’ engraved on its backside.
‘Candyman’ is not only a horror movie from 1992, but also the movie’s main character that appears when people look into a mirror and call his name five times. The watch reality in 2019 is less supernatural though, but almost as creepy: In real life, you might even stand in front of the Patek Philippe…
Wempe and Norqain are introducing the Independence Wild One 42 Signature Collection, a limited-edition sports watch in vibrant turquoise. Created in collaboration with luxury watch and jewellery retailer as part of their Signature Collection series, this exclusive timepiece combines contemporary design with premium materials. With only 50 pieces available, it appeals equally to fans of…
Rolex is introducing an Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Ref. M126603 in a yellow Rolesor version for the first time, combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold. On its black dial, the name 'Sea-Dweller' is inscribed in a yellow hue, echoing the colour of the 18 ct yellow gold. When the Sea-Dweller was updated in 2017, this lettering was in red, in…
At this year's Watches and Wonders 2020, Hermès introduced five new Arceau L’heure de la lune models, including three with meteorite dials. These 43 mm timepieces simultaneously display the moon phases from the perspective of the northern and southern hemispheres. They are available with the following designs: a Black Sahara meteorite dial with a white-gold…
Louis Vuitton continues its journey of unrivaled collaborations with independent watchmakers – after the first collaboration with Akrivia in 2023 – by introducing the second creation in its series with Master Watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. Marking a historic union that began in 2002 alongside Louis Vuitton’s groundbreaking Tambour and Voutilainen’s establishment in Saint-Sulpice, Switzerland, the limited…
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Knights Of The Round Table Titanium Damascus is the latest addition to the collection launched in 2013, which uniquely combines the medieval myth of King Arthur with Roger Dubuis' progressive approach to horology. This new version stands for the contrast between ice and fire. The titanium case with Damascus pattern symbolises…
Since the 16th century, watches have been helpful companions in one's pocket. Of course, watches are mainly worn on the wrist these days, yet pocket watches have not lost their charm and still enjoy a certain popularity. Therefore, it is all the more exciting that Hublot has ventured into a new interpretation of the pocket…
Yesterday morning at 9 AM (CET), with a quick refresh of my safari page, Patek Philippe dropped seven new watches to its sports collections. All of them carry precious stones and are aimed towards the female clientele of the brand. This is truly the season for minute repeaters; as well as the new Ref. 1938…
Oris is introducing a new limited edition – the Carysfort Reef Limited Edition in stainless-steel. The GMT diver's watch, which provides three time zones, supports the Florida-based, non-profit Coral Restoration Foundation. It is the second Oris Carysfort Reef Limited Edition we have seen this year – the first was an 18-carat gold version of the…
Platinum, steel, ceramic or gold – Bulgari's award-winning Octo Finissimo collection encompasses models made of all kinds of materials. Now, two carbon models with ultra-thin calibres have become its newest additions, enriching the collection. The design of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic with small seconds and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calendar combines anthracite-coloured carbon with touches of gold.…
Independent Swiss maison Laurent Ferrier is introducing a new edition of its Grand Sport Tourbillon, this time in 'golden brown'. The warm-toned, autumnal-looking watch, which is a limited edition of only 24 pieces, marks 12 years of the Laurent Ferrier manufacture, which swiftly became a world renowned watchmaker following its founding in 2009. This was…
Breitling is presenting two new Super Chronomat with a smaller 38 mm diameter and diamond-set bezel. The highlight, however, is the Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Origins - a "traceable" watch. The house uses gold and laboratory-grown diamonds whose entire supply chain is transparent. Breitling Super Chronomat Automatic 38 Breitling is presenting two versions: one…
The collection Code 11.59 was first presented in this year's watch fair SIHH in Geneva. Part of the collection are the Automatic and the Chronograph Automatic, besides four other models. The 41 mm case of the six new models is round. Inside there is an octagonal middle piece situated. The upper part of the openworked lugs is welded to…