SIHH 2019: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar
On the watch fair SIHH 2019 the brand Vacheron Constantin launched the new innovative model Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar (Ref. 3200T/000P-B578), which especially focuses on the needs of its owner. It is particularly special due to its active and standby modi: When the model is worn it beats at a high frequency, when the owner takes the piece off, he can slow the calibre down by activating a second balance, extending the power reserve can to 65 days.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3200T/000P-B578
This model again combines the brand’s tradition with the spirit of modern time. The Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar has two balances, each operating with a different frequency. The wearer of the model is able to switch between active-mode and atandby-mode with the pusher at the eight o‘clock position. The active-mode with a 5 Hz (36.000 vph) balance and a power reserve of 4 days should be used when the watch is worn on the wrist. The standby-mode should be activated when the watch is taken off for sleeping, as well as for longer wearing breaks. Therefore the model is powered by its second balance with a drastically reduced frequency of 1,2 Hz (8.640 vph). This function makes it possible to extend the watch’s power reserve to 65 days. During standby-mode all indications stay up-to-date, so that the dates are still correct when the owner switches back to active-mode.
The Perpetual Calendar
The perpetual Calendar is called perpetual, because it is able to display the date information despite variable months and leap years. Though until now the use of the perpetual calendar was restricted by the limits of conventional mainspring technology, making it necessary in most cases to set a perpetual calendar watch each time before it is worn. The new Vacheron Constantin model however shows the correct date and month even after not wearing the model for 2 months. The word ‘perpetual’ gets true significance with the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3200T/000P-B578
The Twin Beat-System
To change between the modi of the watch, without interfering with the balance, the model is equipped with a patent-pending mechanical system: the Twin Beat-System.
This system is mainly inspired by the seasonal time system of the Japanese Edo-Periode (1603-1868), which divided day and night into 6 different segments, whose length would vary depending on the time of the day and the season. Clocks from this period were equipped with a single or double foliot balance enabling automatic changes in their operating speed.
To make the operation of the Twin Beat system possible, the mode selector runs on an all-or-nothing principle, allowing only one balance to oscillate at a time. This all-or-nothing construction ensures that the switch is instantaneous, with no lag when transitioning from one mode to the other. This guarantees that the timekeeping operations of the calibre 3610 QP are never interrupted. In the course of this both the active and standby balances are driven by the same mainspring barrel.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3200T/000P-B578
In order to fully maximize the potential power reserve with the help of the Twin Beat-System, the perpetual calendar mechanism was reworked to use as little energy as possible.
Jumping indications often have drastic influence on the balance of a movement and its energy reserve. The balance loses amplitude and the chronometry of the entire movement is compromised. This effect can be exaggerated in a watch with a perpetual calendar timepiece.
The Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar has jumping indications for the date, month and leap year. Therefore the jumping mechanism has been completely redesigned, utilising a sprung dual-gear compound system that requires four times less torque than a conventional jumping display. With this improvement the effect on the amplitude of the active balance is relatively small.
Technical challenges
In order to support the main features of the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar — the perpetual calendar and the innovative Twin Beatsystem — a new hairspring was created specifically for the needs of the highly sensitive standby balance. The hairspring of the standby balance is, with measurements of 0.0774 mm by 0.0159 mm, nearly four times smaller and far more delicate than the hairspring of the active balance.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3200T/000P-B578
Because the calibre 3610 QP has two balance wheels, only one of which is allowed to oscillate at one time, the hour and minute hands have to draw variable information from two gear trains for one reading of the time. This is accomplished by a gear differential that allows the hands to read more than one input source of timekeeping data.
A second differential is mounted on the barrel for the dual purpose of winding the mainspring and also reducing the mainspring torque as it is directed towards the standby mode balance. Two final differentials translate the power reserve into the subdial that indicates remaining mainspring wind.
The calibre 3610 was made of 480 pieces in total. It is only 6 mm in height and has a diameter of 32 mm.
Modern Design
Movement plates and bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and then treated with NAC, a dark and resistant coating.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Ref. 3200T/000P-B578
On the sun-blasted dial clean radial guillochage are applied, which remind of the 18th-century art of engine turning and frosted finish. Therefore the dial is divided into two main segments in a multi-stage process. A gold dial segment is decorated with hand-guillochage, and then fitted within an outer segment of sapphire crystal. Gold hour indices are then set into the sapphire-crystal dial segment, which is further laser-engraved and ink-filled.
In 2018 Montblanc celebrated the 160thanniversary of the traditional watch manufacture Minerva, which since 2007 belongs to the Hamburg based brand that produces its timepieces in Le Locle and Villeret in the Swiss Jura. Bronze is the key material used for the new 1858 collection Montblanc started an adventurous journey of their '1858' collection last…
At Watches & Wonders 2021, Rolex is presenting not only the new Explorer with a 36 mm case, but also an update for the Rolex Explorer II. This new model replaces the Explorer II reference 216570, but remains true to the familiar recipe. While Rolex makes only minimal changes to the case and dial, the…
Watchmaker Oris is introducing a new timepiece: the Carl Brashear Cal. 401 Limited Edition. The model is the third special edition to result from the collaboration between Oris and the Carl Brashear Foundation. This non-profit organization conveys the legacy of Carl Brashear – the first African-American diver in the US-Navy. Accordingly, the watch is inspired…
Breguet has unveiled a new watch in its Type XX collection. The Type XX Chronograph 2067 is a civilian version with a case made of rose gold and a bezel featuring a ceramic insert. These materials are not only robust but also exude luxury, marking a departure from the military origins of the Type XX…
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Chanel is once again merging the world of high fashion with the precision of fine watchmaking in the shape of the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Bleu Edition. The Bleu Edition features a distinctive blue hue, a ceramic colour that took five years to perfect and that appears to be almost…
With the Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400, the Hölstein-based manufacturer is presenting three new pilot's watches equipped with the Calibre 400. The watches appear in a titanium case and have a matching bracelet made of the same material. They come with dials in grey, blue or salmon. The 39 mm Titanium Case The case of…
The new Oris Aquis Whale Shark Limited Edition draws attention to the threat facing the whale shark. The whale shark is the largest fish on earth and is now on the IUCN list of endangered species. In honour of the species, the new special edition has a dial inspired by the whale shark's skin. It…
Vacheron Constantin is treating its collectors to a new platinum limited edition, of which only 50 pieces are available: the Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph - Collection Excellence Platine. The emblematic masterpiece goes all out in its use of the precious material. It features a platinum case, crown, dial, buckle and – yes you read that right…
Breitling's iconic model since the 1960s is presented with a new manufacture calibre in the form of the Top Time B31 three-hand series. With the launch, Breitling is also introducing the new face of the brand: Austin Butler, the up-and-coming Hollywood star and Oscar-nominated actor, brings a special radiance to the collection with his new…
To mark the centenary of the American 1921, Vacheron Constantin presents three new models of the watch that captures the spirit of the Roaring Twenties with its diagonal dial. Two of the three new variants are housed in a white gold case that measures either 36.5 mm or 40 mm. The Historiques American 1921 -…
With the 5557 Marine Hora Mundi, Breguet is presenting a new take on the maritime sports watch, which now offers a world time complication on an ornate dial. Here, a stylised world map adorns the front, underlining the spirit of discovery that the timepiece conveys. The complication can display the 24 time zones relative to…
It is the unique design that Panerai chooses for its watches that makes this brand so special. Subtle and discreet, they do not resemble any other watch brand and are also very careful with their marketing. With its clean design, the Panerai Luminor Bitempo oozes lightness, and leans on its Italian heritage with its GMT…
This June, Hölstein-based Oris is introducing the first piece in a series of limited edition watches. Essentially, the new Oris Hölstein Edition 2020 is a solid bronze version of the watchmaker's Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph. However, as Co-CEO Rolf Studer explains, the watch is also a 'celebration of Oris' roots'. Furthermore, the 43 mm timepiece hopes…