This year, coinciding with the official press opening of the new Tudor manufacture, Tudor is introducing several new models to the following collections: the Black Bay, Black Bay 54 and Black Bay GMT, and Tudor Royal. As well as adding some new spins to the dials, Tudor is also treating us to new straps as well as new case sizes, making this year’s novelties particularly versatile.
A METAS certification for the Black Bay
Tudor’s latest Black Bay model, Reference 7941A1A0RU, keeps things slow and steady by largely simply refining its best-selling model – but it does have one rather important new quality. This latest 41 mm model holds a Master Chronometer certification – something Tudor is hoping to extend to all of its watches in the near future. This marks the third application of METAS’ standards to a watch in the Tudor collection.
In order to gain a METAS status, watches must: be made in Switzerland, hold a COSC certification, and maintain precision despite testing at two different temperatures, positions, and levels of power reserve. In addition, the watches must offer 70 hours of power reserve and function smoothly even when exposed to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss and 200 m of water pressure. The Reference 7941A1A0RU, as well as the calibre MT5602-U powering it, meets all of these requirements.
The timepiece is presented on a new five-oval-shaped-link brushed bracelet, alongside a black rubber strap or three-link steel bracelet. The price of the Reference 7941A1A0RU with rubber strap is 3,950 Swiss francs; with three-link bracelet is costs 4,150 Swiss francs; and with the new five-link bracelet, the price is 4,250 Swiss francs.
Black Bay 54 debuts at Watches & Wonders 2023
In addition, Tudor is adding a new addition to the line in the form of the Black Bay 54. This purist 37 mm model recalls the Reference 7922 from 1954, aka the earliest Submariner (later to morph into the Black Bay)in the Tudor family. In fact, it is the most accurate interpretation of the original model to date.
Tudor’s Ref. 7922 used the Rolex’s three-part Oyster case with a screw-in caseback and crown, making it an impressive piece that was also water-resistant to 100 m. Powering the 7922 model was the automatic calibre 390, based on Fleurier’s high-quality base calibre. While the dial displayed the name TUDOR, the riveted Oyster bracelet bore Rolex’s logo.
While maintaining the proportions and 37 mm diameter of the original’s case, the new Black Bay 54 offers a water-resistance of 200 m. Yet, as with the original, its redesigned bezel is without any graduated hash marks, and the watch also recalls the 50s with its vintage-style lollipop seconds hand, as well as the brand’s hallmark ‘snowflake’ hands introduced in the 1960s. In addition, a redesigned crown makes this watch as ergonomic as possible.
Powering the new piece is the manufacture calibre MT5400, a COSC-certified movement with a silicon balance spring, 70-hour power reserve, and frequency of 4 Hz. The movement’s design ensures robustness and precision by maintaining the variable inertia balance wheel with a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point anchoring.
Last but not least, the Black Bay 54 comes with a satin-brushed three-link steel bracelet, complete with the Tudor ‘T-fit’ clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment. Alternatively, a black rubber strap option is also available. The price of the model is 3,450 Swiss francs on a rubber strap, or 3,650 Swiss francs with the bracelet.
Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41
Meanwhile, the brand’s classic Black Bay models are making an appearance in steel with a fixed bezel, with four different sizes available. They also mark the introduction of brand-new sunray dials, which come in blue, anthracite, or light champagne with or without diamonds. Tudor equip them all with the manufacture’s new five-link bracelet and clasp with rapid adjustment.
The manufacture powers all of these watches with in-house calibres: the MT5201 for the 31mm, MT5400 for the 36 mm, the MT5602 for the 39mm, and MT5601 for the 41mm model. All of these movements carry a COSC certification. While the smallest models has a 50-hour power reserve, its larger siblings are weekend-proof thanks to a 70-hour power reserve. Finally, the prices of these models vary according to dial decoration, however the collection starts at 3,550 Swiss francs.
Tudor Black Bay GMT
Elsewhere in the realm of Tudor’s Black Bay, Tudor is using Watches & Wonders 2023 to introduce a new version of its popular Black Bay GMT. The shining light of this novelty is its ethereal opaline dial. Through a galvanic process, a matte white-grey finish is applied to the dial, giving it a silvered effect. Alongside its distinctive matt burgundy and blue bezel, it has a light and even summery feel. The watch is housed in a 41 mm steel case, and provides water resistance to 200 m. Meanwhile, its winding crown tube is in satin-brushed steel – a novelty for the Black Bay line, yet one that is in keeping with the case and winding crown.
Powering the new Black Bay GMT is the manufacture’s calibre MT5652, a COSC-certified movement with a silicon balance spring and 70-hour power reserve. This movement with integrated GMT function and jumping hour hand and retrograde date setting indicates the additional time zones with the help of a red ‘Snowflake’ hand. Finally, the price of the watch is 3,800 Swiss francs on a black fabric strap with burgundy accents, or 4,100 Swiss francs with the classic three-link stainless steel bracelet.
Tudor Royal
Last but not least, the Tudor Royal collection is enjoying some updates, not least in the form of an attractive new sunray chocolate-coloured dial. These bicolour steel and yellow-gold pieces come in 28, 34, 38, or 41 mm. Alternatively, all four case sizes are also available in steel, showcasing a trendy salmon-coloured dial. Powering these watches, which are water-resistant to 100 m, are the self-winding T201 (28 mm), T601 (34 and 38 mm), or T603 (41 mm) calibres. The watches’ prices vary according to size, dial, and decoration, starting at 2,200 Swiss francs.
In a retrograde date display, the hand does not make a complete revolution of the dial, but passes through the measuring segment to then jump back to the starting point and begin again. Retrograde displays first appeared at Vacheron Constantin in the 1920s in pocket watches. It was not until 1940 that the manufacture produced…
It must be the power of strong brands and manufactures: a good 50 watches have already been created for and with Bucherer BLUE, which sees itself as the in-house innovation lab of Bucherer – one of the largest and most renowned watch and jewellery retailers in the world. All of its models are united by…
1975 wollte Gianni Bulgari – der heute 90-jährige Enkel von Bulgari-Gründer Sotirio Bulgari – den Top-Kunden seiner Genfer Boutique zu Weihnachten ein ganz besonderes Geschenk machen. Dieses Präsent war eine Uhr und zugleich die Geburtsstunde einer Linie, die für viele zum Inbegriff der Ästhetik der Marke werden sollte: Bvlgari Bvlgari. Dies wird nun mit vier…
Over at A. Lange & Söhne, this year’s Watches & Wonders highlight is unmissable. Last year, a huge model of the Odysseus Chronograph was installed at the Saxon manufacture's stand. This year, it is now a 50-fold enlargement of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold ‘Lumen’. Five metres high, the giant watch shows passers-by what's new…
Before getting to TUDOR chronographs, let us start at the very beginning of the history of TUDOR. Almost 100 years ago, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf decided to pursue a new enterprise. As many watch aficionados will be able to quote, he determined to create a watch ‘at a more modest price’ than its Rolex siblings,…
When it comes to the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie, it’s a tale of opposites: an artisanal workshop tucked away in Geneva and the largest luxury lifestyle brand on the planet, coming together as one. When Louis Vuitton x Akrivia announced that they would be collaborating to create a new watch, we questioned how these vastly different brands could come together…
For the 6th anniversary of the young independent watchmaking atelier AkriviA, founder and master watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi wished to present something completely new. So far, most of his watches are from the inside and outside wholly complex. Tourbillon complications became his passion. The Chronomètre Contemporain, inspired by officers watches is a long-awaited dream come true for…
Following the launch of the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition in 2020, Breitling is now introducing the new Super AVI watch line, a larger version with a case diameter of 46 mm. The five new models pay homage to the most important fighter planes of the 1940s, as well as to the original references from…
The Wempe branch on Munich’s Weinstrasse has been an integral part of the city for half a century, and has been managed by Marc Autmaring since 2009. Over the past 14 years, the engaging and determined manager has succeeded in further developing the location, tapping into new target groups and promoting close cooperation with renowned…
When Patek Philippe first tasked designer Gerald Genta with the creation of the Nautilus, all former conventions went out of the window. To some, the creation of a shockingly sporty steel watch by a traditional luxury brand like Patek seemed almost grotesque. What’s more, it brazenly went against the trends of its time by putting…
Is the currently weak watch market perhaps lacking the sophistication to truly captivate top collectors who already have everything? Editor and watch expert Jörn Kengelbach embarks on a journey into the world of Vacheron Constantin’s enamel craftsmanship — and explores why this rare art could play a key role in the watchmaking industry’s spectacular comeback.…
The Maison Jaeger-LeCoultre not only develops and produces sophisticated movements and complications (around 1.250 own calibres) in their manufacture in Le Sentier, but they also cherish the craftsmanship in terms of decorating movement parts, plates and dials. The most qualified artisans of their craft are joined in the manufacture's own Atelier “Métiers Rares” and with a…
When Zenith presented a diver's watch at Watches & Wonders in April this year, my first assumption was that the brand wanted to expand its range, which is quite logical. After all, diver's watches – at least their mostly strikingly masculine design elements – have been in demand amongst watch enthusiasts for decades, fuelled not…