Celebrating its sixth birthday this year, the Chopard Alpine Eagle enjoyed an ascent to ‘icon’ sports watch status in record time, allowing the maison to comfortably introduce a few new highlights to the indubitably popular collection at this year’s Watches and Wonders trade fair. Let’s take a look.
Alpine Eagle: Three highlights for the men’s collection
Over in the men’s Alpine Eagle collection, Chopard’s collectors can look forward to a new flying tourbillon edition with light blue dial, an Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS in platinum, no less, as well as a particularly adventurous-looking 41 mm SL Cadence model. Let’s take a closer look.
Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon – Ref. 298616-3003
Starting in that order, we can start by admiring the Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon. Appearing in sporty Lucent steel with a ‘Rhône Blue’ dial, it’s worth pointing out that Chopard’s flying tourbillon remains the only manufacture whose flying tourbillon watches bear double Chronometer and Poinçon de Genève certification – no small feat.
The dial
The charmingly named ‘Rhône Blue’ dial (previously seen on the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono in titanium) takes centre stage, its textured surface reminiscent of an eagle’s iris. Crafted from solid gold and finished with a PVD treatment, it radiates around the tourbillon at 6 o’clock, creating an illusion of depth and transparency. Applied white gold hour markers and hands, all coated in Grade X1 Super-LumiNova, ensure legibility in any light. The small seconds hand, perched elegantly on the flying tourbillon carriage, completes this refined composition.
The case
Sleek yet robust, the 41 mm case of the Flying Tourbillon edition is sculpted from Lucent Steel, aka Chopard’s ultra-resistant, high-lustre alloy made with at least 80 percent recycled material. At just 8 mm thick, the case is as streamlined yet elegant as ever, with a vertical satin-brushed case middle, polished bevels, and a bezel punctuated by eight functional screws set at a tangent. Meanwhile, the glare-proofed sapphire crystal caseback offers a clear view of the watch’s exquisite mechanics. Water-resistant to 100 m, the complicated sports watch is built for performance as much as poise – isn’t that always the beauty of a luxury sports watch?
Chopard’s flying tourbillon: Calibre L.U.C 96.24-L
A marvel of horological engineering, the L.U.C 96.24-L movement features a flying tourbillon, free from an upper bridge and thus creating a floating effect that amplifies the timepiece’s over refreshingly light and airy aesthetic. Certified by both the COSC (chronometer certification) and the Poinçon de Genève, this is one of the most precise and finely crafted tourbillons on the market. The tourbillon’s carriage, redesigned to echo the gold hands, integrates the small seconds hand, coated with SLN X1 for improved legibility.
The L.U.C 96.24-L is a 3.30mm thin mechanical movement with automatic winding, powered by an engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor. Thanks to Chopard Twin technology, its two stacked barrels deliver a 65-hour power reserve, ensuring lasting performance. Running at 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz), the movement’s precision is unmatched. Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève finishing underscore Chopard’s steadfast commitment to craftsmanship.
Bracelet
The classic Alpine Eagle integrated Lucent Steel bracelet exudes elegance, with a satin-brushed wide link and polished central cap. Tapered for a refined fit, it is secured with a triple folding clasp, ensuring both comfort and security. Let’s move onto a model with fewer complications, but rather more wow factor in the material department.
Alpine Eagle XP CS Platinum – Ref. 295396-9001
Indeed, this may not be the most complicated or embellished of the new Alpine Eagle models, but it’s arguably the most attractive: the Alpine Eagle XP CS Platinum – marking the first time the ultra-thin, impeccably proportioned timepiece has used the material. This model is available exclusively in boutiques.
Platinum case – and a new hallmark
Platinum is the king of precious metals: rarer than gold, between 40 and 60 percent denser than gold, highly resistant to corrosion and abrasion, and almost alchemically pure at 950/1000 pureness. The case, bezel, and even the crown of this luxe new watch model are meticulously finished, balancing satin-brushed textures with mirror-polished chamfers that catch the light like ice on an Alpine mountain. In addition, the case assures water-resistance to 100 m.
New watch, new material, new emblem
If you needed proof of its pedigree, look no further than the watch’s hand-engraved bee between the lugs, which is now Chopard’s new platinum hallmark – similar to how Cartier, for example, endows its platinum models with a ruby as opposed to sapphire cabochon. The platinum addition to the collection undoubtedly sets a new benchmark for the brand’s iconic sports watch model.
Refined bracelet
The maison is also taking the opportunity to introduce a new integrated bracelet featuring subtly reshaped lines. Thus, the first five links around the case form a steeper slope than on previous models, while those around the clasp are slimmer. This distinctively elegant bracelet profile combines a wearability with refined aesthetics.
The dial: A handsome new colour
Chopard’s Alpine Eagle stamped brass dials have become known for their evocative colours and names, and the all-new ‘Shades of Ice’ blue gradient is no exception. Inspired by shimmering Alpine glaciers and lakes, it shifts from a pale, almost transparent centre to a deep, intense blue at the edges, mirroring the way glacial ice absorbs and scatters light. The radiating ‘eagle’s iris’ pattern brings it to life, while – as always, ethical – gold hands and applied brass hour markers ensure legibility meets elegance thanks to the use of Grade X1 Super-LumiNova. One might dare to venture that this is the most attractive colour dial to appear in the collection.
A New Ultra-Thin Powerhouse: L.U.C Calibre 96.42-L
Beneath the platinum case lies the new L.U.C Calibre 96.42-L, a 3.30 mm-thin mechanical marvel offering central seconds display (hence the ‘CS’ in the name). The platinum micro-rotor drives a 65-hour power reserve, thanks to Chopard’s Twin technology, while beating at a frequency of 4 Hz. Furthermore, the calibre uses a so-called annular balance – aka, a type of balance wheel that is ring-shaped (annular). This balance is often designed to optimise mass distribution for improved timekeeping precision.
L.U.C Calibre 96.42-L: Technical feats
Meanwhile, the movement’s swan’s-neck index-assembly comes in the form of a fine adjustment mechanism designed for regulating the watch’s rate. It features a curved, swan-neck-shaped spring that applies controlled pressure on the regulator, allowing precise modifications to the balance spring’s effective length. Last but not least, the new calibre’s balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve features a special outer coil geometry, with its curve reducing the effects of the spring’s inner and outer coils acting unevenly, thus leading to better isochronism (consistent timekeeping regardless of the watch’s power reserve).The calibre, finely decorated with Côtes de Genève and visible via the caseback, also holds both the Poinçon de Genève seal and COSC certification.
Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF
We can round off our Chopard highlights with an adventurous limited edition, the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF – of which a mere 250 pieces are available. This high-frequency watch comes in ceramicised titanium and is accompanied by a rubber strap, making it the most wearable, not to mention lightest piece in the collection.
The Case: Strength without bulk
In the world of high-performance watchmaking, weight matters – and in this watch, ‘SL’ even stands for ‘super light’. Why? The 41 mm case, bezel with its eight indexed screws, and crown of this latest Alpine Eagle are made from ceramicised grade 5 titanium, a material originally developed for aerospace and motorsport. Indeed, no potential weight savings have been left to chance.
Treated with electro-plasma oxidation, it boasts a hardness of 1000 Vickers, making it as resistant as ceramic but dramatically lighter. The result? A case that’s tough enough for extreme conditions yet barely noticeable on the wrist. A screw-down crown enhances durability, while the exhibition caseback proudly displays the ‘Cadence 8HF’ engraving. In terms of finishing, the caseband and bezel are bead-blasted, as are the case chamfers and the eight screws.
The Dial: Precision in every detail
Chopard stays true to its Alpine Eagle DNA with a dial – alebit made with titanium, rather than brass – inspired by an eagle’s piercing gaze. The ‘Pitch Black’ shade, with its sunburst texture, evokes dark mountain nights, while contrasting orange accents on the seconds hand and minute track inject a dose of sporty energy. Super-LumiNova-coated hands and indices ensure legibility at all times, whether scaling a peak or cruising through city lights, while a handy date window sits between 4 and 5 o’clock. The dark colour with sporty orange accents also blends nicely with the anthracite grey aesthetic of the high-tech case material. As a fellow limited edition, the distinctively adventurous, masculine and contemporary colour combination of the Alpine Eagle 41 SL Cadence 8HF may well remind watch fans of Vacheron Constantin’s successfully received Everest series. Dark, textured backgrounds and orange accents are certainly a winning combination.
The Movement: High Frequency, high precision
The Chopard 01.14-C calibre beats at a rapid-fire 8 Hz (57,600 vibrations per hour), ensuring superior timekeeping even under impact. It is from this high frequency that the watch takes its name (8HF). A light and self-lubricating material, monocrystalline silicon, is used for the pallet-lever, the escape-wheel and the impulse-pin, thus reducing friction on what tend to be the most high friction components. Furthermore, unlike traditional movements, which can be disrupted by shocks, this high-frequency engine recovers its accuracy almost instantly. Even more impressive? Its 60-hour power reserve – a rarity for high-frequency movements.Finally, to maintain its ultra-lightweight status, the movement’s mainplate and bridges are also crafted in ceramicised titanium.
The Strap: Another first for the series
For the first time in an Alpine Eagle high-frequency model, Chopard pairs this powerhouse with a rubber strap with a titanium insert, reinforcing its modern, sport-luxe appeal. Available in black or bold orange, or in black calfskin with orange stitching, Chopard steadfastly provide the model with as much style as functionality.
Bi-colour mechanical 33 mm Alpine Eagle: The lowdown
Let’s move to the ladies’ pieces, as Chopard treat its dainty-wristed followers to a 33 mm Alpine Eagle in Lucent Steel (the brand’s own steel) and ethical (as always) yellow gold in combination with a so-called ‘Vals Grey’ dial. Despite its small size and as with its predecessors, the case of the Ref. 298617-4001 houses a mechanical manufacture movement, the self-winding calibre 09.01-C.
The dial
‘Vals Grey’ is, as true Chopard aficionados will know, is not a new colour for the collection, having previously appeared on an Alpine Eagle Summit model back in 2023. Complementing the diamond hour markers and gem-set bezel, this subtle tone is reminiscent of the silvery quartzite found on the slate roofs of houses in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. As always, the distinctive dial, reminiscent of an eagle’s iris, is made of brass, and achieves its colour through galvanic treatment. Still a robust sports watch despite its attractive appearance, gilded baton-type hours and minutes hands indicate the hours, while Grade XI Super-LumiNova provides round-the-clock legibility. A gilded arrow-tipped seconds hand with counterweight shaped like an eagle’s feather gives this avian-inspired watch yet another thoughtful touch.
The case
Moving onto the 33 x 7.95 mm case, it’s worth mentioning that this is obviously not the first bi-colour watch we’ve seen in the broader Alpine Eagle collection. However, while previous versions have appeared in rose-gold, this 33 mm addition marks the first time that Lucent steel has been used in combination with yellow-gold, contributing to a more contemporary and eye-catching overall appeal. The crown is likewise in yellow-gold, and bears the brand’s distinctive compass rose, while the bracelet of the watch is bi-colour and operates via a secure triple-folding clasp. There have been whisperings that the trendy bi-colour (specifically yellow-gold and steel) watches of the 1970s are making a comeback – and this new release’s choice of materials certainly reinforces that notion.
Small watch, small movement: Calibre 09.01-C
Over to the movement, Chopard once again power this 33 mm model with the calibre 09.01-C. Running at a frequency of 3.5 Hz, the watch offers a laudable power reserve of 42 hours. Not only is it a luxury to have such a dainty timepiece feature a manufacture mechanical movement: this particular one, with a mere 8-ligne diameter, remains one of the smallest to be granted the prestigious certification of precision by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, giving this 33 mm model its own special distinction.
These small watches really do stand out due to the fact that their high-end competitors – take a luxury women’s sports watch like the AP Royal Oak 33 mm – are largely only offering quartz movements at this small size. The combination of a high-quality mechanical movement and small case size is not only impressive, but also a real rarity. Only Cartier’s Ballon Bleu 33 mm springs to mind as a direct competitor on the current market, meaning there remains very little rivalry within the ‘mini mechanical watch’ segment. As interest in smaller size watches continues to grow, it remains to be seen which big brands will resurrect smaller mechanical watches, whether sports watches or otherwise – might it be a collector’s dream, for example, to see the return of Patek’s dressy 33 mm self-winding Ref. 3998J Calatrava, which ran from the late 80s up into the noughties? Here is yet another trend we can hope to see develop in coming years.
Height of luxury: Alpine Eagle ‘Frozen Topaz’
Here we have another model with a rather more captivating name and even more alluring aesthetic: the Alpine Eagle 33 mm Frozen Topaz Blue, or ‘Ref. 295384-1004’. Appearing in icy white-gold, this watch endeavours to evoke alpine glaciers. While the case, bracelet, and even the dial are adorned with diamonds, the bezel glitters with blue-gradient topaz stones. This model really lends itself to the jewellery watch segment, while still offering all the robust technicalities required for a sports timepiece.
Stones, stones, and more stones
On this small but mighty model, Chopard’s artisans have opted to meticulously pave the entire dial – as well as the crown guards and each bracelet link—with hundreds of diamonds. In contrast to the spangled monochrome effect of white gold and diamonds, the collection’s distinctive bezel, with its eight indexed screws, surrounds the dial with a bluish halo. Patiently matched to form a colour gradient, the array of baguette-cut topazes serves as a reminder that, beyond its watchmaking expertise, Chopard also cultivates a recognised legacy in the art of gem-setting and stone selection. This is when we can really see the Alpine Eagle collection’s role as a canvas for Chopard’s broad horological know-how and savoir-faire, from exquisite gem-set models such as this, to flying tourbillon models like the one we took a look at earlier.
Additional features
Stones aside, this sumptuously designed watch still integrates all the sporty features required, such as 50 m water-resistance and a triple-folding clasp on the bracelet. Over on the white-gold dial, the Alpine Eagle’s rhodium-plated applied hour-markers and numerals and matching baton-type hours and minutes hands are enhanced with Grade XI Super-LumiNova.
Movement: Calibre 09.01-C
Once again, this watch is powered by the calibre 09.01-C. By the way: both this model and the bi-colour edition feature an open caseback, meaning the wearer can admire the movement within. The fact that this small 33 mm model not only has a mechanical movement but also an open caseback is truly an asset, not to mention another rarity to be coveted.
