Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition: The Reincarnation of Calibre 135-O
The Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition is the result of a collaboration between Zenith, watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and Phillips with Bacs & Russo. The small edition celebrates the manufacture’s success in chronometer competitions held in the last century. Indeed, the in-house Calibre 135-O won the most awards in the history of watchmaking. For this release, Zenith placed ten historic movements in the hands of Kari Voutilainen. The latter restored the calibres together with his team. The limited edition appears in a platinum case and will be auctioned by Phillips.
The Case
The case of the Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition measures 38 mm in diameter and is made of platinum 950. It is completely round with tapered lugs. The polished bezel and case back complement the satin-finish middle section. On the side is a fluted crown bearing the Zenith star. Meanwhile, on the back, the see-through case back allows a glance inside the watch. The case back not only bears the limitation number, but also the names of the three collaborators.
The Dial
For the dial, the watchmakers drew inspiration from references dating back to the 1950s. Accordingly, the slightly domed sterling silver dial bears a guilloched fish-scale pattern. This is complemented by faceted, wedge-shaped indices and polished dot markers in nickel silver. The hands are of gold and indicate the time together with the seconds at 6 o’clock. Zenith also places the serial number of the movement on the corresponding subdial. Hidden at the very bottom is another detail that illustrates the watch’s historical connection. Where you would normally find “Swiss Made”, here it says “Neuchâtel”, the place where the chronometer competitions took place.
The Movement
For this series, Zenith placed ten historic examples of calibre 135 in the hands of Kari Voutilainen. Together with his team, he restored the movements. However, they took care to retain the original construction and did not even touch the regulation. Instead, they decorated the movements with bevelled and polished edges, polished screw heads, circular grinding on the main plate and snailed brushing on the ratchet wheel. The calibre 135 is manually wound and has a power autonomy of about 40 hours.
Price & Availability of the Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire Limited Edition
The Zenith Calibre 135 Observatoire comes on a black calfskin strap. It also features a white gold pin buckle. The watch is delivered in a walnut box, which recalls the containers in which the historic timekeepers were delivered to the Neuchâtel Observatory. Only ten pieces are available. Phillips sells these exclusively together with Bacs & Russo. The price is 132,900 Swiss francs.
At Watches & Wonders 2022, Swisswatches caught up with Piaget CEO Benjamin Comar to discuss all things Piaget – from ultra-thin watches to the gender-specific watch debate, to what he describes as his ‘COVID-19 babies’. During your childhood, it is likely that at some point you attended a funfair or circus. In doing so, you…
With the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, Rolex once again revives an idea of the past: the wristwatch as a practical tool. Built and developed for the professionals – that is the formula Rolex focuses upon for its new release, which is water-resistant up to 11,000 metres. The titanium case, ringlock system and helium escape valve…
“We’ll see you on the other side” 50 years after the Apollo 8 mission, the first to orbit around the moon, OMEGA is releasing its newest "Dark Side of the Moon" timepiece. Unlike previous "Dark Side" models, this release houses a specially decorated version of OMEGA's "Moonwatch" movement. To display the workings inside, the dial…
This year at Dubai's LMVH watch fair, Zenith brought back the spirit of the 1960s with a brand new El Primero edition. The El Primero A384 Revival was first introduced last year, as the brand celebrated 50 years since becoming the first watchmaker in the world to unveil an automatic integrated chronograph watch. As in…
Jaeger-LeCoultre added a new model to the 'Polaris collection', revealed at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva: the Polaris Geographic WT (Ref. Q904847J). Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic WT Ref. Q904847J The design is inspired by the 1968 Memovox Polaris watch, one of the models of the Grande Maison's 'Memovox line'. The model is characterized by a sporty,…
Automobile Club de Monaco appoints TAG Heuer as official sponsor and timekeeper of legendary Grand Prix de Monaco Historique. The appointment complements its current designation as the Official Watch of the Monaco Grand Prix and the Official Watch Partner of the Monaco Top Cars Collection museum. TAG Heuer presents a special-edition timepiece in the occasion of…
As the Tambour watch reaches its 21st birthday, Louis Vuitton is honouring its most important model with a successor – and what a successor it is. The goal is clear: to move up into the highest class of watchmaking. Will it succeed? How good really is the new Louis Vuitton Tambour? And will Louis Vuitton…
We've already covered the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie in great detail, from interviews with Rexhepi to analysis of the unexpected collaboration. Now, however, it's time to get technical – with a little help from Jean Arnault and Rexhep Rexhepi, who both shared some thoughts with us at the launch in Los Angeles yesterday. LVRR01…
Carl F. Bucherer is introducing a new version of its Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral. Previously seen in rose gold, the new edition is now available in white-gold. The new version is a limited edition of only 88 pieces. The Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral White Gold features an uncluttered dial, while the tourbillon aims to have a 'floating'…
The independent manufacturer Armin Strom is presenting a modern interpretation of the classic dress watch. With the Armin Strom Tribute 1, the company is opposing the trend: last year, due to a lack of occasions, only few dress watches were allowed on the wrist. Nevertheless, Armin Strom is speculating on a turnaround and proves that…
Breguet presents two new models in its Classique collection: the Classique 5177 and Classique 7787. These references showcase the brand's commitment to traditional craftsmanship and timeless elegance. Encased in platinum, the watches feature dials made of black Grand Feu enamel, a noble material known for its beauty. The Classique 5177 offers a pure representation of…
Zenith is expanding the ICONS programme with a new capsule collection composed of three historic pilot's watches. As part of Zenith's HORIZ-ON CSR initiative, dedicated to building a circular economy for the manufacture's historic watches, the ICONS programme offers original references that have been examined, certified and restored by the heritage department, respecting the original…
Omega has become something of a talking point in the industry recently. Last year, the company unveiled the most spectacular movement in its history, the Calibre 1932. Marking the world's first calibre to combine an integrated chronograph and a minute repeater, it was proof that Omega's ongoing quest for innovation is far from over. This…