The Bauhaus movement celebrates its 100thanniversary this year and still today stands for functionality and aesthetics. Due to the industrialization, Bauhaus manifested a basic philosophy to preserve the artistic work and bring it in line with the raising engineering sciences. The aim was to grant a broad audience access to quality products. Typical design elements of Bauhaus are: well-designed, practical and straightforward. Everyone that likes to keep it clear and simple will enjoy the Bauhaus style. The first pilot watches (Mark XI) by IWC somehow remind us of this movement. Its external appearance is minimalistic and reduced to the essential; its technical approach is sophisticated and above all very functional. In 2003, the watch collection ‘Spitfire’ arose from the heritage of these Mark XI pilot watches. They unite Swiss craftsmanship with the art of engineering: aesthetic, functional and pure. For the first time, the new models surprise with IWC manufactured movements and a very attractive entry level price.
The ‘Big Pilot’ within the new Spitfire collection – with perpetual calendar and limited to 250 pieces
Focus on Functionality
IWC surely didn’t have the Bauhaus style in mind while designing their first pilot watches. But at the moment Bauhaus is to be talked of and it’s therefore not far to seek for parallels when it comes to a strong design and functionality. During war time, when the first IWC pilot watches were produced, they needed to be as functional as possible – precise and easy to read. Today, the focus is not so much on the military aspect any longer and therefore they take inspiration from design elements of past times and contemporary functions to have a reliable companion in the jungle of everyday life. Inspirations derive from the shapes of on-board computers or colours from cockpits of vintage airplanes. Just like the new IWC ‘Spitfire’ watches, of which seven new versions have been introduced at the watch fair SIHH 2019.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (left)
IWC Pilot’s Watch UTC Spitfire Edition MJ271 (right)
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire (middle)
Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire
Looking at the presentation of their new ‘Spitfire’ collection we noticed that IWC is reviving their military background and the brand likes to draw a comparison between their own savoir-faire and other masterpieces of engineering. The Spitfire becomes the source of inspiration – the British fighter plane that became popular in the second world war due to its agility. IWC launches two new automatic models that build the basic line of the ‘Spitfire’ collection. Their design reminds us of the navigation watches Mark XI with their simple dials and well legible numerals. The triangle with its two dots at 12 o’clock is adopted from the original pilot watches – it offered the pilots a better orientation of the hands position.
The new Spitfire Automatic models are available in two versions – here with bronze case and calf leather strap
The Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire comes in two executions, with stainless steel case and black dial and a green textile strap, or with a bronze case and green dial and a tough calfskin leather strap in dark brown. The inspiration in terms of colour coding comes from the cockpits of old Spitfire fight planes. The 39mm case is slightly smaller then the usual pilot watches at IWC. Until now, most of them were powered by external Sellita or Valjoux movements. All new ‘Spitfire’ watches house an IWC manufacture calibre. The Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire runs with the calibre 32110 with a time and date indication from the new calibre family 32000 and a power reserve of remarkable 72 hours. Price: 4.900 Euro (in stainless steel), 5.500 Euro (in bronze).
The new Spitfire Automatic watches are available in two versions: here with steel case and NATO strap
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire
The choice of colour range of the new chronograph models is identically to the automatic ones. Due to their chronograph function the case is slightly more generous, however with a 41mm case they are the smallest chronographs at IWC. It surely will catch the attention of a broader audience, especially at a price of 6.290 Euro for the steel-model, and 6.990 Euro for the bronze-model. Inside the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire runs the IWC manufacture calibre 69380, which originates from the calibre family 69000 that was first introduced in 2016.
Both Spitfire Chronograph watches also come in a bronze or steel case
Pilot’s Watch UTC Spitfire Edition “MJ271”
In 1998 IWC introduced the first UTC (Coordinated Universal Time) with its typical timezone-mechanism. The second timezone is displayed in a window between 11 and 1 o’clock. The last UTC pilot watch by IWC was introduced in 2012. Now for the first time this mechanism is integrated into an in-house IWC movement, the calibre 82710 with a power reserve of 60 hours. The watch is named after the 80 year old Spitfire that will set off for a circumnavigation of the world this summer. It is limited to 271 pieces and only available with a bronze case, a green dial and a dark brown calfskin leather strap. Price: 9.900 Euro.
It returns after seven years – the UTC pilot watch with its typical timezone mechanism
Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight”
On their take off to the circumnavigation of the world this summer, the two pilots Steve Boultbee Brooks and Matt Jones will most likely be wearing one of these limited watches – and probably use them as they are equipped with a classical worldtime function that is adjusted from the bezel. The new calibre 82760 has an automatic Pellaton bi-directional winding and ceramic clicks. To make it simple, the 1950 patented mechanism enables the winding of the hairspring no matter in which direction the oscillating weight moves. Ceramic is partially used to prevent abrasion. The Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire Edition “The Longest Flight” is limited to 250 pieces at a price of 13.800 Euro.
The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire varies widely from all other models with a 46.2mm case. After all, it’s a Big Pilot and certainly needs the size to house the complicated calibre 52615 with perpetual calendar function. It is the only new ‘Spitfire’ model that shows its artful worked movement through an open case-back. 250 pieces are available at a price of 30.900 Euro.
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire (left)
The only new Spitfire model with open caseback (right)
All sapphire glasses of the Spitfire pilot watches don’t mist up at higher air pressure. All movements are protected from magnetic fields. For our personal taste the hands should have been designed linear – at least for the basic models. Besides this the collection is overall well done and very aesthetic. Whereas some watch brands at the moment come up with unjust high prices, others surprise with high quality at a very attractive entry level price. Maybe not available for a broad audience, like the Bauhaus intended it to be – but surely for a new target group.
The collection Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet and its six models were introduced on this year's watch fair SIHH in Geneva. One of the new models is the Minute Repeater Supersonnerie. The 41 mm case of the new collection’s six models is round with an octagonal middle piece inside. The upper part of the openworked lugs is welded to the…
During our last conversation a couple of months ago, CEO Georges Kern could hardly keep his cool as, bursting with pride, he gushed over Breitling's 2021 novelties – without revealing anything, of course. As we are now finding out, his excitement was fully justified. This year, the Premier collection is extending to include six new…
The beauty of traditional watch manufactures is, that on the one hand production methods that once made them strong are still being emphasized today, and on the other hand this unbroken innovation spirit from past times still generates modern and exciting new techniques. The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 that has been introduced at the beginning…
Being uncomplicated is not necessarily a top priority for Vacheron Constantin. Not even 270 years after it was founded. And so the company likes to create extremely difficult superlatives in the art of watchmaking. While last year it was the world's most complicated pocket watch with no fewer than 63 complications, at this year's Watches…
In a feat almost as impressive as Apollo 13, we were able to gather all three legendary OMEGA Snoopy watches together in the same room. We decided to size them up in the metal, from aesthetics and functionality, to the story behind each watch. It's time to focus on three extraordinary things: Space, Snoopy, and…
Loro Piana, Sandro, Max Mara – brands synonymous with ‘quiet luxury’ in fashion are relatively easy to identify. But when it comes to watches, how does 'quiet luxury' manifest itself? Is every Swiss watchmaker capable of achieving it, or do certain companies inevitably carry certain associations? Can a brand known for emblazoning its logo across…
Blancpain’s history begins in the village of Villeret, where it was founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain, a schoolmaster turned watchmaker. With this founding year, Blancpain claims the right to be the oldest watch brand in the world. The horology house’s Villeret collection embodies this long and successful corporate history of traditional watchmaking while attesting to the…
Geneva is the city of watchmaking, and many of the largest and best-known watch manufactures in the region have long opted to confine their points of sale to the city centre. F.P. Journe, however, is different. Located in a historic building on Rue de L'Arquebuse dating from 1892, very close to the flagship boutiques around…
Over a century after the creation of its ultra-complicated Universelle pocket watch, Audemars Piguet is introducing a new interpretation that marks the first ever ultra-complicated self-winding wristwatch, the RD#4, to emerge from the watchmaker. Appearing in a Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet case, the highly complex watch is impressively ergonomic and highly contemporary. The history…
It must be the power of strong brands and manufactures: a good 50 watches have already been created for and with Bucherer BLUE, which sees itself as the in-house innovation lab of Bucherer – one of the largest and most renowned watch and jewellery retailers in the world. All of its models are united by…
At the beginning of 2025, Hublot revised its striking Big Bang MECA-10, a timepiece renowned for its ten-day power reserve and unconventional power reserve display. The primary focus of this update was a reduction in size, from a bold 45 mm to a more restrained 42 mm in diameter. Achieving this required the development of…
‘Born to dare’, ‘Don’t crack under pressure’, ‘Live for greatness’ – every brand has a mantra by which it defines itself. Swiss watch manufacture Rado, aka the self-proclaimed ‘Master of Materials’, stands by the words: ‘If we can imagine it, we can make it. And if we can make it, we will.’ But, in a world in which watch brands grapple with mineral composite fibres and dabble with concrete cases, where exactly…
The luxury goods group LVMH has just promoted Frédéric Arnault to CEO of the LVMH Watch Division, and Julien Tornare to the new CEO of TAG Heuer, as the group continues to massively expand its competencies in the watch segment. But what impact might this have upon the entire watch industry? What is owner of…