Watch manufactures have long drawn inspiration from artistic and even architectural movements, and the new Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 Selfwinding is no exception. The watch draws on brutalism, aka a popular building design born in London after the Second World War, for its design code – think of icons such as the Barbican. In line with this style, the watch favours simple yet strong block-like designs and exposed space above intricate decoration. Only 250 pieces of this limited edition timepiece are available.
The 60s: The golden age of AP’s asymmetrical timepieces
That said, as the name suggests and aficionados will be aware, this is the second [RE]Master timepiece we are seeing from Audemars Piguet, following on from the first ever [RE]Master01 released back in 2020. That watch, as some may recall, reinterpreted a chronograph from 1943. By contrast, this watch pays tribute to a historic asymmetric watch from 1960, the model 5159BA. Only seven units were released – one of which now resides at the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet. It featured an asymmetrical 27.5 mm rectangular case in 18-carat gold, alongside a dial shape that was far from traditional.
During this period, Audemars Piguet actually produced a number of Brutalist-inspired models. These distinctive timepieces featured angular geometric shapes, devoid of any ornamentation. Between 1959 and 1963, more than 30 models were created – most of which were produced in fewer than ten pieces. No wonder, then, that the watch aesthetic made for the perfect [RE]Master limited edition.
Between 1959 and 1963, Audemars Piguet created more than 30 asymmetrical models, most of which were produced in less than 10 pieces. [RE]Master02 is a fantastic opportunity to revive this forgotten golden age.
Sébastian Vivas, Heritage and Museum Director, Audemars Piguet
The case of the Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02
Audemars Piguet has a long and varied history when it comes to creativity: over the years, AP has toyed with a wide variety of materials, colours and case forms, ranging from traditional geometries such as the circle, square and rectangle, to more unexpected trapezoidal or octagonal shapes. This bring us to the new limited edition, which features an asymmetrical 41mm rectangular case. It glows beautifully thanks to the use of AP’s new 18-carat sand gold alloy, showcasing a tone that oscillates between white and pink gold, depending on the light and movement of the wrist. We first saw this alluring new tone on a Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked model. Taking its name from sand dunes, it uses gold, copper and palladium to achieve its warm appearance.
The case, with its many facets, makes an impact with its sharp corners and chunky integrated lugs. Edging towards the crown, this innovative case also follows the slope of the sapphire crystal. While decoration remains minimal, the brushed case features a satin finish for a raw look that contrasts with the polished, faceted dial. Last but not least, the caseback features the words ‘Limited Edition’, while the material also matches nicely to the open view of the asymmetrical oscillating weight.
One-of-a-kind dial
Moving on to the one-of-a-kind dial: a closer look at this rather mathematically clever dial reveals a mixture of different geometric shapes, from rectangles to triangles. Notably, the linear satin-finished dial forgoes any hour markers, allowing the ‘Audemars Piguet’ logo, obtained by galvanic growth’, to take more of a central role. Yet more interesting, however, is the process used to create the ‘Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50’ dial. Created using Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD),the dial consists 12 triangles of different sizes and shapes, separated by galvanised sand-gold-toned partitions that meet at the centre. Each individually machined brass triangle is given a linear satin finish before being placed on a brass plate using minuscule legs.
18-carat sand-gold hands, in combination with the carefully divided dial, indicate the time. Additionally, the sapphire crystal covering the dial furthers the asymmetrical element of its design. In fact, the sapphire crystal has a 15.8° bevel for greater visual impact. This is no small feat, and required two years of research and development in order to meet AP’s requirements as well as to ensure the watch’s water resistance to 30 m.
An ultra-thin movement
Powering the new [RE]Master02 is the calibre 7129, an extra-thin hour and minute movement without date indication. Notably, it uses the calibre 7121 as its base, which some may recognise from the 2022 Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin models. This movement, despite its 2.8 mm height, produces more energy thanks to its new construction and its larger barrel, enabling the mechanism to achieve greater precision over a longer period of time. The oscillating weight, mounted on ball bearings, is equipped with two reversers to ensure bidirectional winding. In addition, AP’s engineers insert inertia blocks into the thickness of the balance wheel, thus preventing aerodynamic friction from slowing it down.
While the watch may well be minimalist, the movement is not. The calibre 7129 features refined decorations such as Côtes de Genève, circular satin, snailing, sunray brushing, circular graining and polished angles. All of this, as well as the handsome oscillating weight, are visible via the caseback.
Availability of the [RE]Master02
Some may recall that the first [RE]Master model, introduced in 2020 to mark the opening of Audemars Piguet’s museum, was a limited edition of 500 piece. This latest watch, marking the second in the series, is even more limited. Only 250 pieces of the Audemars Piguet [RE]Master02 are available. The watch comes on a handsome dark alligator strap, which stays true to the suave aesthetics of the early 1960s. The price of the timepiece is 46,700 euros.
Together with its long-time ambassador Giannis Antetokounmpo, Breitling has introduced a special edition of the Chronomat. Inspired by the athlete's impressive journey from the basketball courts of Athens to the NBA, two watches immortalise the basketball star's personality and style. These watches are available in two versions: the Chronomat GMT with a 40 mm steel…
First appearing as a diver's watch in the 1960s and quickly becoming an icon, the modern-day Polaris watch from Swiss horology house Jaeger-LeCoultre was revived back in 2018. The adventurous yet elegant chronograph model, designed with everyday use in mind, is now appearing in two new iterations. Both versions showcase new artisanal dials and come…
A year ago, Tudor entered a partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing. This year, the joint hydrofoil AC75 (America's Cup 75) racing yacht set sail. It is the first time that Tudor advances into competitive yacht racing. In celebration, two new variations of the legendary Pelagos are released. The high-speed boat's design inspired the Pelagos FXD timepiece and the chronograph Pelagos…
TAG Heuer and Porsche are announcing a major new partnership. The two brands already share a common history in motorsport. In addition to joint sponsorship projects, new products are also expected to appear as a result. The TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph Special Edition is the first of these. Featuring an asphalt-look dial, it is…
Hublot is presenting the Big Bang Tourbillon Samuel Ross, the result of a collaboration with the latter brand ambassador. Samuel Ross is an artist and fashion designer, and has incorporated his signature design language into this special model. The watch is characterised by an unconventional shape with a honeycomb structure. It also features the orange…
In the world of luxury watchmaking, there are few names as strongly associated with innovation and precision as TAG Heuer. At this year's Watches & Wonders in Geneva, the brand is once again attracting attention with the new edition of the legendary TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date. This watch, which has its roots in motorsport, is…
After presenting the colourful DEFY 21 Chroma Limited Edition at LVMH Watch Week last year, Zenith has now launched two new limited editions with their own colour concept. Technical precision and chromatic design meet once again in the Zenith Defy 21 Chroma II, which is housed in a black or white ceramic case. The case Coming…
The Master Ultra Thin collection is Jaeger-LeCoultre's answer to a modern dress watch, in which the ultra-thin movement always takes centre stage alongside the elegant aesthetics. This year at Watches & Wonders 2024, the watchmaker is presenting three new variations of the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar - with a revised case and dial design…
With the Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Carbotech PAM01563 another "Luna Rossa" special edition is being launched. The series celebrates the manufacture's involvement in sailing, specifically with the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli Team, with which Panerai has had a partnership since 2019. To mark the 37th America's Cup, this new watch is now being produced as…
Breguet is enriching its new generation of Marine watches with a creation housing three horological complications. In addition to an alarm, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 displays a second time zone as well as the date. Breguet Marine Alarm Musicale 5547 The alarm is a multi-purpose function suited to a number of daily requirements, such…
The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface combines the classic case of the Dress Watch collection with a bold openworked dial. The watch appears in white gold or red gold and offers a full calendar with moon phases. The movement can be seen through the exposed dial, which emphasises the technical feel of the watch.…
Audemars Piguet is presenting an innovative addition to its Royal Oak collection. This new Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin builds on the tradition of the iconic Royal Oak line, but at the same time presents a new fusion of materials: titanium and Bulk Metallic Glass (BMG). On the occasion of the annual Only Watch fundraising campaign,…
If you can't decide between white gold, yellow gold or rose gold when putting on your watch, Audemars Piguet now has an alternative for you: polychrome gold, a kind of camouflage motif made from all three precious metals. The new material will initially be presented in the form of a prototype of the Royal Oak…