Chopard Launches New Alpine Eagle Chrono and L.U.C. XPS Forest Green
Among the highlights of Chopard’s releases at Watches & Wonders 2024 are two particularly attractive, vibrant models: a new Alpine Eagle Chrono and the L.U.C Forest Green. Both showcase handsome dial colours as well as equally high quality movements that one would indeed expect from the luxury maison.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono
The case
Let’s begin by taking a look at this latest chronograph to join the Chopard Alpine Eagle collection. The 2024 model offers a lightweight and more rugged-looking option in the form of a Grade 5 titanium case with a 44 mm diameter. We’ve seen use of titanium in a couple of high-frequency Alpine Eagle models prior to now, however this year marks the debut of the material within the chronograph segment of the line. Grade 5 titanium combines the material with aluminium and vanadium, making its properties make it especially resistant to corrosion and salt water.
The dial
A handsome new dial colour graces this new chronograph model in so-called Rhône Blue. The tone takes inspiration from the palette of natural colours composing the beauty of Alpine landscapes. Furthermore, it evokes one of the Alps’ most famous rivers, the Rhône, which originates at the heart of the eponymous glacier in the canton of Valais. It is here – at an altitude of over 2,200 metres – that the emblematic river begins. Its gentle blue hues are synonymous with purity, and go on to feed the waters of Lake Geneva before eventually ending its course in the Mediterranean Sea.
As always, the brass dial’s sunburst pattern evokes an eagle’s iris. The seconds hand, with its arrow-shaped tip, flies over a highly legible display thanks to the snailed counters. In addition, the hands and hour markers have a Grade XI Super-LumiNova coating, a particularly brightly shining treatment that offers the advantage of retaining the same intensity over the years. In addition, an aperture-type date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock makes semi-instantaneous jumps.
The chronograph’s tachymeter scale bears discreet red 100, 160 and 240 graduations appears on the inner bezel ring. Chopard divide it into four steps, with different intervals of 5, 10, 20 or 40 km/h per line. This allows the wearer to read the average speed measurements with ease.
The movement: Calibre 03.05-C
Chopard powers its Alpine Eagle chronograph models with the in-house 03.05-C. Highly revered across the industry, the 03.05-C is one of the world’s most innovative chronograph movements. It has a 60-hour power reserve, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz, and features an elaborate design guaranteeing accurate adjustments and optimal use of the chronograph functions. Integrating with a column wheel, it is also home to several technical innovations that hold no less than three patents.
Firstly, its unidirectional gear drive system prevents energy losses while ensuring rapid automatic winding. In addition, its vertical clutch ensures accurate time-measurement starts. This chronograph calibre is also a flyback, enabling smooth successive timing operations thanks to three pivoting hammers with elastic arms facilitating zero-setting of the hands. No wonder, then, that the Chopard 03.05-C movement holds a certification from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.
Strap of the Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono
The new Alpine Eagle Chrono with Rhône Blue dial (Ref. 298609-3008) comes with a black rubber strap with titanium insert, matching nicely to the dial’s black chronograph subdial counters. The watch is available exclusively in boutiques.
L.U.C XPS Forest Green
This brings us to the true collector’s watch, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green. L.U.C watches have three primary focus points: technical performance, aesthetic refinement, and a commitment to certified watchmaking. Chopard also build this latest model around these principles.
The L.U.C case
The dashing new watch comes in a 40 mm x 7. 20 mm case, arguably making it a good size for a real range of wrist sizes. Chopard use their own responsible material, Lucent Steel, for the case, which features a polished case-middle and case-back, satin-brushed case flanks, as well as a sapphire crystal caseback. The crown bears the L.U.C logo, and the watch offers overall water-resistance to a decent enough 30 m.
The dial
The brass dial in ‘Forest Green’ is obviously the real centrepiece of this watch. Chopard achieve the aesthetic of the satin-brushed dark green dial through PVD treatment. The sector-type dial, with its precise divisions and intricate detailing, adds a touch of vintage sophistication, making this L.U.C model both contemporary and classic.
Rules of the game: What is a sector-type dial?
There’s a greater meaning behind the sector-type dial. The design sits between the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements, with the concentric circles typical of the former and the functionality of the latter. It adopts a time-only dial layout, giving it both intrigue and aesthetic depth. Generally speaking, a ‘true’ sector-type dial should feature two concentric rings – one for the minutes and another for the hours. The hours and minutes markers should be radial lines running between the inner and outer edges of the rings – creating the ‘sectors’. Particularly popular in the 1930s, the style remained in favour throughout the 1940s and into the 1950s, before fading away in the 1960s. It made a big comeback in recent years – not least thanks to Chopard’s own L.U.C Qualité Fleurier introduced back in 2005.
Off-white markers add to the dial’s classic aesthetic, while the watch stays true to the collection’s DNA with its signature rhodium-plated Dauphine hands. The watch likewise provides small seconds with the help of a rhodium-plated triangular small seconds hand.
The calibre
Yes, the sector-type dial is the main talking point – but the calibre of this watch, visible via the exhibition caseback, is also exquisite. Indeed, one can always count on the L.U.C collection for a beautifully finished movement. The L.U.C 96.12-L consists of 172 components which unite to provide hours, minutes, and small seconds.
The calibre winds automatically up to a 65-hour power reserve via a micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold. It beats at a frequency of 4 Hz, using two stacked barrels (this feat owes itself to Chopard’s Twintechnology). The bridges showcase a classic Côtes de Genève motif. Of course, the slim 3.30 mm movement also holds a COSC certification.
Strap and availability
The timepiece comes on a hand-sewn brown calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching. The price of this watch (Ref. 168629-3001) is yet to become available, but will no doubt bear a price that reflects the fact that this piece is from Chopard’s most high-end collection.
The new Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina departs from the conventional architecture with hands from the centre. Instead, the watchmakers have placed a tourbillon in the centre, from which the time displays wind hierarchically around the dial in stages. "Orbis" can be translated as either "circle" or "world". Both "circle in the machine" and "world…
Platinum, steel, ceramic or gold – Bulgari's award-winning Octo Finissimo collection encompasses models made of all kinds of materials. Now, two carbon models with ultra-thin calibres have become its newest additions, enriching the collection. The design of the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic with small seconds and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpertual Calendar combines anthracite-coloured carbon with touches of gold.…
Unveiled in 2018, the FiftySix collection is now extended by two new versions in rose gold, available in a complete calendar and automatic version. Both watches for the first time have a sepia brown-toned dial colour and brown calfskin leather strap. The FiftySix line is mainly inspired by reference 6073, that was introduced in 1956.…
To mark the anniversary of the Radiomir, Panerai presents the Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453. This watch combines the iconic features of the Radiomir collection with a complex perpetual calendar and a GMT function. The case crafted from Goldtech, an exclusive gold alloy developed by Panerai, adds a touch of luxury. Case The case…
The Bulgari Octo Roma Central Tourbillon Papillon tells the time with a mechanism that has never been seen before. Inspired by a butterfly, two retractable hands travel along a graduation to indicate the minutes. Meanwhile, an aperture at 12 o'clock shows the current hour. The watch appears in a rose gold case and is powered…
The collaboration between Zenith and contemporary artist Felipe Pantone enters the next round. This latest creation, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone, will be released as a limited edition of 100 pieces and will be available from 12 September 2024. Zenith and internationally recognised artist Felipe Pantone are here bringing their signature elements into a…
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s minute repeater collection is enriched with a model in a new design. The new interpretation of the Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication incorporates two of the most technically challenging complications in horology – a minute repeater and a celestial vault. The complex mechanism is further elevated by an orbital flying tourbillon. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers one…
Breitling celebrates American automotive culture with the Top Time Classic Cars Capsule collection. For this purpose, the Swiss company is presenting three chronographs, each inspired by a classic racing car from the 1960s. They appear with eye-catching dials that are intended to capture the feeling of freedom and joy of life that emanates from the…
At the novelty’s presentation during SIHH in 2018, Piaget with the Altiplano Ultimate Concept revealed the thinnest mechanical watch in the world. Measuring only a height of 2 mm thanks to a case that formed part of the movement, a unique, integrated winding crown, an ultra-thin crystal and a new construction for the barrel and…
Vacheron Constantin is introducing the Patrimony Moon Phase and Retrograde Date to its Excellence Platine collection. This collection has two new additions every year, and offers enthusiasts limited platinum editions. Now, it is exclusively available in Vacheron Constantin boutiques and is a limited edition of 50 pieces. Furthermore, the new Patrimony watch has a 42.5…
In 1993, the Seamaster Professional Diver 300M was launched for the first time. Its design and ocean technology signalled OMEGA’s return to the world of diving watches and also ignited the brand’s partnership with the figure of James Bond. Now, 25 years later, a new collection has arrived. OMEGA - Seamaster Diver 300M OMEGA is…
With the RM 47 Tourbillon, Richard Mille is presenting an extraordinary timepiece that pays an artistic tribute to Japanese culture. Instead of a dial, the wearer can admire a three-dimensional decoration depicting a samurai warrior. This symbolises the traditional Japanese values that still influence society today. The work of art is made entirely by hand…
Louis Vuitton continues its journey of unrivaled collaborations with independent watchmakers – after the first collaboration with Akrivia in 2023 – by introducing the second creation in its series with Master Watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. Marking a historic union that began in 2002 alongside Louis Vuitton’s groundbreaking Tambour and Voutilainen’s establishment in Saint-Sulpice, Switzerland, the limited…