Among the highlights of Chopard’s releases at Watches & Wonders 2024 are two particularly attractive, vibrant models: a new Alpine Eagle Chrono and the L.U.C Forest Green. Both showcase handsome dial colours as well as equally high quality movements that one would indeed expect from the luxury maison.
The Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono
The case
Let’s begin by taking a look at this latest chronograph to join the Chopard Alpine Eagle collection. The 2024 model offers a lightweight and more rugged-looking option in the form of a Grade 5 titanium case with a 44 mm diameter. We’ve seen use of titanium in a couple of high-frequency Alpine Eagle models prior to now, however this year marks the debut of the material within the chronograph segment of the line. Grade 5 titanium combines the material with aluminium and vanadium, making its properties make it especially resistant to corrosion and salt water.
The dial
A handsome new dial colour graces this new chronograph model in so-called Rhône Blue. The tone takes inspiration from the palette of natural colours composing the beauty of Alpine landscapes. Furthermore, it evokes one of the Alps’ most famous rivers, the Rhône, which originates at the heart of the eponymous glacier in the canton of Valais. It is here – at an altitude of over 2,200 metres – that the emblematic river begins. Its gentle blue hues are synonymous with purity, and go on to feed the waters of Lake Geneva before eventually ending its course in the Mediterranean Sea.
As always, the brass dial’s sunburst pattern evokes an eagle’s iris. The seconds hand, with its arrow-shaped tip, flies over a highly legible display thanks to the snailed counters. In addition, the hands and hour markers have a Grade XI Super-LumiNova coating, a particularly brightly shining treatment that offers the advantage of retaining the same intensity over the years. In addition, an aperture-type date indication between 4 and 5 o’clock makes semi-instantaneous jumps.
The chronograph’s tachymeter scale bears discreet red 100, 160 and 240 graduations appears on the inner bezel ring. Chopard divide it into four steps, with different intervals of 5, 10, 20 or 40 km/h per line. This allows the wearer to read the average speed measurements with ease.
The movement: Calibre 03.05-C
Chopard powers its Alpine Eagle chronograph models with the in-house 03.05-C. Highly revered across the industry, the 03.05-C is one of the world’s most innovative chronograph movements. It has a 60-hour power reserve, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz, and features an elaborate design guaranteeing accurate adjustments and optimal use of the chronograph functions. Integrating with a column wheel, it is also home to several technical innovations that hold no less than three patents.
Firstly, its unidirectional gear drive system prevents energy losses while ensuring rapid automatic winding. In addition, its vertical clutch ensures accurate time-measurement starts. This chronograph calibre is also a flyback, enabling smooth successive timing operations thanks to three pivoting hammers with elastic arms facilitating zero-setting of the hands. No wonder, then, that the Chopard 03.05-C movement holds a certification from the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute.
Strap of the Chopard Alpine Eagle Chrono
The new Alpine Eagle Chrono with Rhône Blue dial (Ref. 298609-3008) comes with a black rubber strap with titanium insert, matching nicely to the dial’s black chronograph subdial counters. The watch is available exclusively in boutiques.
L.U.C XPS Forest Green
This brings us to the true collector’s watch, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green. L.U.C watches have three primary focus points: technical performance, aesthetic refinement, and a commitment to certified watchmaking. Chopard also build this latest model around these principles.
The L.U.C case
The dashing new watch comes in a 40 mm x 7. 20 mm case, arguably making it a good size for a real range of wrist sizes. Chopard use their own responsible material, Lucent Steel, for the case, which features a polished case-middle and case-back, satin-brushed case flanks, as well as a sapphire crystal caseback. The crown bears the L.U.C logo, and the watch offers overall water-resistance to a decent enough 30 m.
The dial
The brass dial in ‘Forest Green’ is obviously the real centrepiece of this watch. Chopard achieve the aesthetic of the satin-brushed dark green dial through PVD treatment. The sector-type dial, with its precise divisions and intricate detailing, adds a touch of vintage sophistication, making this L.U.C model both contemporary and classic.
Rules of the game: What is a sector-type dial?
There’s a greater meaning behind the sector-type dial. The design sits between the Art Deco and Bauhaus movements, with the concentric circles typical of the former and the functionality of the latter. It adopts a time-only dial layout, giving it both intrigue and aesthetic depth. Generally speaking, a ‘true’ sector-type dial should feature two concentric rings – one for the minutes and another for the hours. The hours and minutes markers should be radial lines running between the inner and outer edges of the rings – creating the ‘sectors’. Particularly popular in the 1930s, the style remained in favour throughout the 1940s and into the 1950s, before fading away in the 1960s. It made a big comeback in recent years – not least thanks to Chopard’s own L.U.C Qualité Fleurier introduced back in 2005.
Off-white markers add to the dial’s classic aesthetic, while the watch stays true to the collection’s DNA with its signature rhodium-plated Dauphine hands. The watch likewise provides small seconds with the help of a rhodium-plated triangular small seconds hand.
The calibre
Yes, the sector-type dial is the main talking point – but the calibre of this watch, visible via the exhibition caseback, is also exquisite. Indeed, one can always count on the L.U.C collection for a beautifully finished movement. The L.U.C 96.12-L consists of 172 components which unite to provide hours, minutes, and small seconds.
The calibre winds automatically up to a 65-hour power reserve via a micro-rotor in ethical 22-carat gold. It beats at a frequency of 4 Hz, using two stacked barrels (this feat owes itself to Chopard’s Twin technology). The bridges showcase a classic Côtes de Genève motif. Of course, the slim 3.30 mm movement also holds a COSC certification.
Strap and availability
The timepiece comes on a hand-sewn brown calfskin leather strap with ecru stitching. The price of this watch (Ref. 168629-3001) is yet to become available, but will no doubt bear a price that reflects the fact that this piece is from Chopard’s most high-end collection.
