Georges Kern and The Future of Breitling – The Cool Alternative to Traditional Luxury
Since Georges Kern took the helm at Breitling almost three years ago, realigning collections and the brand’s strategy, annual sales have increased significantly. Kern recently revealed just how the brand will stay on the path to success with an intriguing, forward-looking perspective. A key theme is how we will consume in the future and the role that luxury will play. According to Kern, luxury in the traditional sense will cease to exist – and Breitling wants to offer a cool new alternative.
Breitling Surfer Squad
A resistant brand
Despite the exceptional circumstances of the current health crisis, which is seriously affecting trades, Breitling is a fairly ‘resistant’ brand in markets such as England, France, Germany, Japan and the USA. Demand has steadily increased in the past years. In China, Breitling has a low turnover of 7%. However, two years ago – just before the brand’s change of course – it was at 0%. What’s more, the Chinese market requires further expansion in the future, as it is currently indicating a drastic change in the way that the next generation is consuming products. This new trend stems from the Japanese, who buy 90% of their products in their own country. The days in which large numbers of Asian tourists went on a shopping pilgrimage to Europe are over.
Breitling Boutique, Regent Street, London, UK
Therefore, for
Kern, it is even more important not to rely on business from tourists. Local
markets need to be strengthened, so that products can appeal to each individual
market. In other words, Breitling should not become a brand tailored entirely to
the taste of its Asian consumers. With this in mind, Kern wisely wants to focus
on Breitling’s products achieving a global appeal, rather than focusing solely on
the Chinese market. The current worldwide crisis has also exposed how sensitively
each market responds to cutting off its supply chains. Breitling, for one,
tries to ensure sufficient supply for local markets as much as possible, helping
countries to operate self-sufficiently.
Traditional luxury will cease to exist
For the most part, the new generation of consumers purchase locally. This new generation accounts for around 70% of Breitling’s sales today – at least in China and Japan – but this is also a growing trend in Europe. According to Kern, it is not only the way of consuming that is changing, but also how luxury is being defined. In his opinion, the traditional term of luxury will fade, as will the sense of privilege that comes with wearing the product of a certain brand. Today, things are increasingly challenging for brands and they must be in constant communication with their clients. What’s more, the days of posing with a mink fur coat and champagne at a Polo tournament are over. Rather, younger generations of today prioritise fields such as sustainability, nutrition, sports and authenticity.
Breitling Triathlon Squad & Friends rode in support of Qhubeka at the Coronation Double Century in South Africa
Clients today want to be in touch with these new priorities when it comes to brands that they want to relate themselves to. The brand’s values need to be comprehensibly presented and regularly demonstrated. Georges Kern has fully understood and responded to this new mindset, and strongly believes in this brand strategy. In 2018, Breitling teamed up with Ocean Conservancy, an organization that has fought against plastic pollution in oceans for over 30 years, organizing big rubbish collecting events.
Only recently, Breitling presented a cooperation with sustainable fashion brand Outerknown, that specializes in producing recycled function fabrics from nylon waste – often caused by lost fishing nets. From this recycled waste, Breitling now produces NATO-straps from ECONYL-yarn.
Superocean Heritage Chronograph 44 Outerknown with NATO-strap made of ECONYL-yarn
But for Georges Kern, this is not enough – he has set his sights high and has a clear vision. Blockchain, for example, a method where all production steps can be tracked, allows Breitling customers to know where their watches’ materials originate, where are they produced, and so on. This ensures full transparency regarding product- and supply chains. The method is already used in the nutrition and fashion industries, but remains a fairly novel idea in the watch industry.
The new luxury
The next question for Kern is how to market this process and create an exciting and convincing narrative. Therefore, Kern gathers testimonials from his ‘Squad’ members and ensures that they fit his strategy and products. For example, surfer legend Kelly Slater is not only part of the Breitling Surfer Squad, but also the founder of the aforementioned brand Outerknown.
Similarly, Brad Pitt is not only part of the new Breitling Cinema Squad, but also a pretty relaxed guy, according to Kern. This brings us to the next crucial keyword when talking about the future of luxury. Luxury has not only become more democratic and conscious, but also much more relaxed in its style – casual and cool – and less formal. Both Kelly Slater and Brad Pitt embody this lifestyle.
This is also reflected in Breitling’s new boutique concept. Loft-style shops with couches and music from cool Spotify-playlists have replaced the traditional, conventional and even stuffy showrooms that we associate with some brands and jewellers.
Newest Breitling Boutique concept
Looking into the future, Georges Kern is convinced that if you fail to notice or simply ignore certain trends and developments, you will be in trouble. It’s possible that only ten to 15 of the most relevant brands will remain in ten or 15 years time – that is Kern’s wary forecast. This trend can already be seen in the car industry. For Kern, Tesla plays a leading role and might even have inspired him. Already in the past ten years, they have thoroughly examined the field of autonomous driving – many years of intensive research, insights and data that other automotive producers simply don’t have.
What the future will look like, nobody can predict. But Kern is convinced that consumption and luxury are going to change massively. And, with Breitling, he is ready to offer a stylish, laidback alternative to the ever-traditional luxury.
A number of the most prominent brands in the horology industry have pulled out of Baselworld. The next fair was due to take place in 2021. In the future, Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe, Chanel and Chopard will present their products in Geneva. This will be a part of a new watch fair hosted in collaboration…
What is the point of a brand ambassador? To encapsulate the essence of a brand. Represent its values. Inspire others. These are all things that Panerai brand ambassador, Mike Horn, is certainly capable of – alongside much more. Over the years, the Switzerland-based South African has had his fair share of awe-inspiring adventures as well…
In 2017, OMEGA introduced a series of new watches from their popular Seamaster Aqua Terra collection. To pay a special tribute to them, OMEGA hosted a glamorous gala-dinner at the prestige Palazzo Pisani Moretta in Venice, the place where the Seamaster history began. The Palazzo Pisani Moretta in Venice Not everyone is aware of the…
For means of being transparent, this article must start with a confession: the author of this story is not exactly unbiased. Blue, in all its many shades, is his colour – starting with his admiring view of the oceans, and not ending with a slowly but surely exuberant selection of jackets and shirts in every…
At a time when the battleship Royal Louis of the French Royal Navy had to fight for its nation’s defence in the 18th century, its crew had to rely on precise navigation tools to calculate their position. They used marine chronometers – also called longitudinal clocks – because the determination of the longitude on the sea…
Davide Cerrato, Managing Director of the Montblanc Watch Division, has once again gone on a treasure hunt. He is one of just a few who have access to the holy halls of Minerva, the archive in Villeret, searching like an archaeologist for treasures from the 160-year-old brand that was acquired by Montblanc in 2007. In 2018, for the…
It is a touching tribute to his father: as Philippe Stern turns 85 on 10 November, his son, Thierry Stern, will introduce the world to the Reference 1938P-001, limited to a mere 30 pieces. Thus, the current President will pay homage to the Honorary President of the manufacture, while its employees likewise honour the man who…
The decade of the 1950s was a crucial period for music – and it was also a golden age for watchmaking. Cliff Richards produced his first songs in the notorious Abbey Road Studios as did the Beatles little later. Vacheron Constantin introduced their first automatic watch (Ref. 6073) in 1956 which today lives on in…
The past 100 years have without doubt brought along many technical changes. Looking at classical cars like Porsche 911, Jaguar X-type or Mercedes SL for example you might optically not notice too many differences to a modern version. However under the hood you will find a high tech engine. This is applicable to the watch…
TUDOR is introducing an array of novelties at this year's Watches & Wonders. One very important piece is an outgoing watch christened the Black Bay Pro. Other new models come in the form of a bicolour Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Chrono with new colour schemes, as well as Black Bay S&G watches with…
How the Black Bay lives on through its most popular diver’s watch If he were alive today, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf would be tremendously proud to see the legacy of his life’s work in the 21st century. Temporarily removing Rolex from the picture, he would have been equally proud to discover how its sister brand,…
At SIHH watch fair 2018 Montblanc has introduced a whole new range of exciting watches from their 1858 collection celebrating 160 years of the Minerva Manufacture – and dedicated them to the Mountain Explorations from the 1920s and 1930s. Last year Montblanc’s 1858 collection was reissued. This year these watches are re-launched with a little…
Incredible watches are characterised by the fact that they display much more than just the current time. In the best cases, they also say something about the zeitgeist in the world. It would not an exaggeration to say that the Richard Mille RM 029 Le Mans Classic is one such model. As a limited edition of 150…