In The Metal: New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Models in Full Black Ceramic
From complicated Chinese calendars and ground-breaking diver’s watches to serene Villeret moonphase models, Blancpain has long been a master of not only horological finesse, but also design. Now, the brand is opening a new chapter with the introduction of three new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune variations, alongside additions to its three-hand and Chronographe Flyback models. Quite a mouthful – and accordingly, there’s plenty to be said about the watches, too, which are now available with a black ceramic bracelet for the first time.
Breaking down the Bathyscaphe line
Following closely behind the brand’s ultimate diver’s watch, the Fifty Fathoms, it appears the Bathyscaphe watches were introduced slightly later in the 1950s. Unlike their tool watch relatives, these hardy timepieces offered a more everyday option to Blancpain’s clientele. This comprised the introduction of a date window, as well as a smaller diameter. Today, the Bathyscaphe model still incorporates these characteristics, as well as enticing collectors with its sleek dials, lollipop minute hand, and clean baton and dot hour markers. Oh, and for those such as myself with limited nautical knowledge: a bathyscaphe is a manned free-diving, self-propelled deep-sea submersible.
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune
The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune models, however, turns the model into something of a horological canvas for the manufacture, with plenty of feats packed in. This includes, for the non-French speakers amongst us, a complete calendar. Accommodated by the calibre 6654.P4, this practical complication indicates the date, day of the week, and the month alongside the animated reproduction of the lunar cycles.
Boasting a 72-hour power reserve courtesy of its dual barrels, the model features a secure mechanism that allows its owner to adjust the calendar indications at any time without risk of damage. In addition, the inclusion of a silicon hairspring renders the movement impervious to magnetism, ensuring precision and reliability in any setting. Finally, the movement is adorned with exquisite bevelling, perlage, and snailing, as is visible through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Up until now, there were eight variants of the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune. This included two red-gold models with varying fabric straps, while the remaining editions came in titanium or steel with matching bracelets or fabric straps. That’s where things get exciting for us: the latest additions for 2024 offer up several black ceramic models with matching bracelets. This marks a first for the collection. These latest editions also come with a satin-brushed black unidirectional bezel with ceramic insert, alongside a handsome sunburst blue dial with subtly graduated colouring.
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback
Blancpain aficionados will know that the flyback chronograph contingent of the line is no stranger to ceramic, as we’ve already seen a handful of ceramic variations, including limited editions, on the market. Up until this point, though, the models were only available with a fabric strap, while the latest iteration with handsome sunburst green dial offers up a black ceramic bracelet alongside the preexisting straps. The watches are powered by the F385 manufacture calibre, which was launched in an updated version in 2015 and offers a solid power reserve of 50 hours. The special feature here is that the watch does not have screw-down chronograph pushers, but is still water-resistant to 300 metres, meaning the pushers can be operated under water without any problems.
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe: Three-hand date models
The same goes for the collection’s classic three-hand editions with a date function: while there are black, blue, or green dial Bathyscaphe watches housed in a ceramic case, none up until this point have been available with a matching black ceramic bracelet.
The latest iteration comes with a sultry black dial, alongside a unidirectional satin-brushed black ceramic bezel with ceramic insert. Meanwhile, as with all models in the line, Liquidmetal provides round-the-clock legibility in the darkest of conditions.
The 43.60 mm Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe models x 13.83 mm remain ergonomic as ever, offering water resistance to 30 bar (~300 m) while still integrating a sapphire crystal caseback that reveals the highly finished calibre 1315 with 120-hour power reserve.
Why ceramic?
Obviously, given the complications on this watch, Blancpain had a good number of different material options to choose from. So why go for full black ceramic? Firstly, high-tech-ceramic, with its unique properties, is a fitting material for this line, thanks to its versatile nature. Notably durable, highly scratch-resistant, and hypoallergenic, the material is five times harder than stainless steel and nearly four times harder than grade 5 titanium, while being 25 percent lighter. Compared to a fabric strap, there’s naturally no doubt that a black ceramic bracelet is much longer-lasting and can easily stay in mint condition even under the most challenging circumstances.
Over to production
The black ceramic’s production, which takes place in Switzerland, involves a complex process including a 25 percent volume reduction during firing at over 1400°C and machining with diamond tools, culminating in a sleek satin finish that defines the Bathyscaphe collection’s aesthetic. Following this process, the links, buckles and cases are all individually hand-finished by in-house experts at the Swatch Group’s Comadur factory. There are only two polishers at Blancpain who have mastered the craft of polishing ceramic – accordingly, the finishing of the ceramic components of the new models is particularly impressive, as is immediately obvious to anyone who has spent a little time with ceramic watches. The clasp alone takes 27 steps to complete.
The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe bracelet: In the metal
Of course, we took the watch and its accompanying bracelet for a good spin in order to share a bit of experience of the watch on the wrist. The bracelet evidently lays focus on ergonomics and comfort, with each link individually measured for an optimal fit. Turning the bracelet onto its side, the exposed titanium screws are also a nice touch with a bit of an industrial vibe.
However, as ceramic ultimately remains a sensitive material that can break under certain amounts of pressure, Blancpain has come up with a special and patented fastening system. Cam-shaped pins between the bracelet links ensure that the individual links do not come into direct contact with each other during movement, and therefore do not wear out. It also ensures that the bracelet has an extremely high-quality appearance and is very comfortable to wear on the wrist.
The verdict
Pragmatism aside, full black ceramic watches also exude a very contemporary, slick aesthetic, and they’re really a statement piece. As competitors such as Tudor’s Black Bay or Panerai’s Radiomir models make clear, it’s also decidedly sporty, not to mention increasingly trendy. Black ceramic watches are really a matter of taste, and not exactly one for the traditionalists – but seeing these watches in the metal (and, hopefully our photography can convince you) is proof of how a modern material can be translated into something luxurious and still full of tradition.
The price for the three-hand model is 22,900 euros. The model with a full calendar and the flyback chronograph are available for 27,900 euros each.
The world of haute horlogerie welcomes a new variant of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge”. The watch is an homage to the rich tradition of craftsmanship and technical innovations that have defined the brand since its inception. With the introduction of this watch, Breguet honors the famous invention of the tourbillon, patented…
Shortly before his untimely death, pop art icon Andy Warhol created a painting of three timepieces with a rectangle case and a bracelet with horizontal lines on a 111.8 x 111.8 cm canvas. Their colourful outlines diagonally stretch across yellow, mint, black, pink and red areas. The title of the artwork from 1987: Anatom (Rado…
What is the point of a brand ambassador? To encapsulate the essence of a brand. Represent its values. Inspire others. These are all things that Panerai brand ambassador, Mike Horn, is certainly capable of – alongside much more. Over the years, the Switzerland-based South African has had his fair share of awe-inspiring adventures as well…
Over at Schaffhausen, one tends to focus on just one collection each year. Last year it was the Portugieser line, which underwent both a revision and extension. This year, however, another IWC favourite is in the limelight; pilot's watches. These models have always enjoyed a huge level of popularity at IWC – both with design-orientated…
With 35 international branches and around 800 employees, luxury watch and jewellery retailer Wempe is one of the largest of its kind. Given its size, it’s no surprise that the retailer also sells its own creations in order to save on margins, so to speak. But without a coherent story, business for Wempe would probably…
Whereas many brands of traditional mechanical watchmaking try to adopt new smart technology approaches, the renowned Maison Vacheron Constantin holds on to classical values. At SIHH 2018 Geneva’s oldest watch Manufacture (established 1755) introduces three new timepieces called FIFTYSIX and inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s important and iconic watch from 1956. The Vacheron Constantin 6073 –…
"Ergonomic: [adjective] relating to or designed for efficiency and comfort in the working environment." This is the definition for the word "ergonomic"; a buzz word at Audemars Piguet this year, since the Swiss horology house introduced its all-new Royal Oak Offshore models in a 43 mm case. The new chronograph models, available in steel, pink…
What makes the young Swiss brand and its new chrono so special? It was almost two years ago that I first stumbled across Norqain watches, while skiing in Switzerland – whether on posters in the winter sports resort, or on the advertising windows of the ski lifts. Since then, however, particularly as a close observer…
Some anniversaries are celebrated with confetti and champagne. Others mark their place in history with an event that redefines their own work. Vacheron Constantin chose the latter for its 270th birthday: the presentation of Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication – La Première. A unique piece, a supernova of watchmaking, a new world record for the…
Rolex's legendary Daytona celebrates its 60th anniversary this year. As a result, our anticipation was particularly high in the run-up to what the horology house would come up with to mark this important birthday. Now the secret is out. Rolex has fundamentally revised the model line, both visually and technically. Other highlights include the new…
At this year’s Watches & Wonders 2022, Panerai’s CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué sat down with Swisswatches to introduce us to his company’s "Submersible QuarantaQuattro" diving watch. Its name already reveals that the models come with a new case diameter of 44 mm – but Pontroué also had many other thoughts to share. In addition to three…
The 'Nordschleife' (Northern loop) has the reputation of being the most difficult racetrack in the world. This winding ribbon of tarmac makes its way through 33 left-hand and 40 right-hand bends, while varying in altitudes of 300 m over the Eifel National Park – more than any other race track. The Nordschleife is so notorious…
A few weeks back we mentioned the Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo while introducing bronze watches at swisswatches. We now managed to get our hands on to a piece with very unique patina, which we found so thrilling that we dedicated it a little photo story. Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 Bronzo The owner bought the Panerai…